Help!! I was cleaning my microhood

I do believe that is the normal way to get rid of the heat and any moisture while the micro is operating .

Sounds like the internal cooling fan may be stuck or defective. This will cause the micro to overheat which intern trips an internal heat safety. Once it cools down it will try to start again and repeat the same problem. Cooling fan is usually near the back behind the control panel.

Sounds like the main fuse blew. It's either near where the power cord enters the cabinet, or behind the control panel (if an over the range unit).

You may also have some type of failure in the high voltage circuit; based on your description of the symptoms.

if microwave is counting down but no heat you either have a loose connection at the magnatron tube or the thermal cut out fuse that is connected to the magnatron has blown or you have a micro switch, that has failed

The keypad controller is defective, behind it there is the microprocessor ic mounted on a board with several other parts. The whole keypad and circuit board must be replaced, and the cost just for the part will run more than a new microwave.

A couple of months ago my microwave started making crackling, rattling and grinding sounds everytime i used it and i thought it was going to break down. It turned out one of my children must have spillled or overflowed something with a clear liquid because the micro did not look dirty but there was a crunchy substance under the wheels of the turntable. Once i cleaned this up totally the noises all went away.

I would first suggest that you check the door switches.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

Especially if your cooktop lights recently went bad, you may have a problem with your control circuit board.

You can order one here, or we can repair yours for $39.95 in most cases.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Did your cooktop lights fail recently? If so, then the circuit board may have been damaged by a surge. We can probably repair that for you.

Otherwise, I would suspect a shorted high voltage diode or bad magnetron.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you don't find your mini-manual, or if you want to look at it before removing the controller, you can download it here.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number (as MH7140XFB0) here.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html
(if it's not shorted or burned, it's probably okay)

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

F9 is normally a bad door switch or door switch mount.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

You can probably find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number here at the Sears parts site.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Generally the F9 code indicates a problem with the door latch (usually upper) or with the control board. You can do a Google search for my text file "doorsw.txt" to help you diagnose and repair door switch trouble. BUT - since it always stops at 53 seconds, that leads me to think you have trouble with the control unit (circuit board / controller assembly). Once you read and digest the info on door switches, please feel free to do an updated post and I'll be happy to help you further. It may be corrupted ROM in the control unit. But let us know what you find out. - online they call me "William E. Miller, AS-EET"