Question about Comfort Zone CZ792 Electric Utility Heater

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Coils aren't glowing red

I just bought the heater yesterday and the coiled wires inside aren't glowing red. I have it on high and still no glow. Are they supposed to glow if they are heating properly? It is putting out heat but not as much as the one I have at work that looks similar.

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  • 51 Answers

Most of the new heaters dont glow red. Its a safety thing so it dont catch your sheets or curtains,couch,chair etc on fire. Because of the idiots in this world we cant get a good heater anymore. Thats just the way it is.

Posted on Jan 06, 2013

Testimonial: "Thank you, I just needed to know if I should return it or not. I guess it isn't broken so I'll keep it. Thanks again."

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

leighp123
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SOURCE: Won't heat my studio - even on "HIGH"

Does it get hot? If so, that is all you will get! It is not made to heat a room of 20 X 15 X 8 feet high. That is 2400 cubic feet of air space that may or may not be insulated. You need a quartz heater or two that are designed with fans to heat larger areas (see the specifications on them). The oil filled radiator is to put next to your rocking chair or under your desk near your feet!

Posted on Jan 01, 2013

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: when we first bought the

when you first bought the heater even if it wasnt "red" as you say did you get heat from it? now those type of heaters are good when they work. First the heater has 2 settings say low and high now in low the wattage will turn some of the elements partly red the reason you dont see it is because it is fan forced heat on those type heaters which causes the elements to look like they are not red but they are on, only low will do this. Now high will cause all elements to get "red" even while the fan is running. If there is no heat someone needs to bypass switch to see if they work.process of iliminitation.Hope this helps for you.

Posted on Jan 18, 2011

  • 13 Answers

SOURCE: my comfort zone heater wire element is glowing and

dust and dirty air can be one problem or some object has fallen in to it you may need to get it cleaned

Posted on Nov 29, 2010

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1 Answer

Sub-Zero 550 problem The freezer works but the refrigerator doesn't.


Hello,

Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 Phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrigerator's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

Hope this will helpout in solving the fault....

Jun 10, 2011 | Sub-Zero Refrigerators

Tip

Maytag Side X Side Refrigerator adaptive defrost check



To check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrig and inside the refrig section at the top
about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull
downward and foreword , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4"
screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both
light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these
5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive
defrost board ( adc ) . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white
box will be seen . Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug
going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then
another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert
one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will send power directly thru the defrost bi-metal ( thermostat ) AND
heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrig back in . Now , if you have a clamp on amp meter , clamp around the jumper wire while pushing in the light switch ( to turn off the light to get only defrost amps ) which should be 3.5 or above indicating bi metal and heater are good and adc is bad , OR , wait about 3-5 min and
look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost
heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater
.If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the
plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bi-metal are good . If
you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost
board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrig and
reinstall the refrig control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer
panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black
element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace them to the top of the coils
and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good ( should show continuity ) . If the element IS
good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils .
This is the defrost thermostat ( bi-metal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good .
If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the
bi-metal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bi-metal
already wired together . This would be the advisable replacement part . However , each part
can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bi-metal and the top plastic
" cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bi-metal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its
designed function .

on May 27, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore model 253, and the refrigerator section stopped working yesterday but the freezer was fine. I de-dusted the back, and when I checked the compressor was hot to the touch. At a paid...


Hello,

Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Useing a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

Good luck.....

May 17, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

What is red light inside fridge


if you're talking about seeing a red glow in the freezer,there's a heater in the freezer as crazy as that sounds,when the machine goes into defrost,the heater comes on and glows red to melt off all the ice that builds up on the evap coil.it does this only in defrost.

May 10, 2011 | Electrolux Refrigerators

1 Answer

Hi, hope you're having a good day. My question is... the freezer seems to be working fine but, the refrigerator is not cooling properly. It's a side-by-side GSH22JFT. My initial thought is the...


Hello,
you can fix this problem yourself, all you have to do is to follow the procedure that i will be given below....
Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 Phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrigerator's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Useing a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

I hope this will help out.....

May 09, 2011 | GE GSH22JFT Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

What causes ice build up on inside freezer coils


To check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrig and inside the refrig section at the top
about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull
downward and foreword , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4"
screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both
light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these
5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive
defrost board ( adc ) . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a
white
box will be seen . Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug
going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then
another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert
one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will send
power directly thru the defrost bi-metal ( thermostat ) AND
heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrig back in . Now , if you have a clamp on amp
meter , clamp around the jumper wire while pushing in the light switch ( to turn off the
light to get only defrost amps ) which should be 3.5 or above indicating bi metal and heater
are good and adc is bad , OR , wait about 3-5 min and
look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost
heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater
.If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the
plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bi-metal are good . If
you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost
board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrig and
reinstall the refrig control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer
panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black
element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace them to the top of the coils
and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good ( should show
continuity ) . If the element IS
good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils .
This is the defrost thermostat ( bi-metal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good .
If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the
bi-metal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bi-metal
already wired together . This would be the advisable replacement part . However , each part
can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bi-metal and the top plastic
" cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bi-metal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed
its
designed function

Aug 25, 2010 | Maytag MSD2756GES Side by Side...

2 Answers

Coils in freezer are coated with ice, not allow air flow to get to refrigerator. I think the defroster is not working in the freezer coils, but welcome advice.


To check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrig and inside the refrig section at the top
about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull
downward and foreword , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4"
screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both
light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these
5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive
defrost board ( adc ) . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white
box will be seen . Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug
going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then
another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert
one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass
the adaptive board and send power directly thru the defrost bi-metal ( thermostat ) AND
heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrig back in . Now , if you have a clamp on amp meter , clamp around the jumper wire while pushing in the light switch ( to turn off the light to get only defrost amps ) which should be 3.5 or above indicating bi metal and heater are good and adc is bad , OR , wait about 3-5 min and
look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost
heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater
.If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the
plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bi-metal are good . If
you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost
board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrig and
reinstall the refrig control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer
panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black
element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace them to the top of the coils
and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good ( should show continuity ) . If the element IS
good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils .
This is the defrost thermostat ( bi-metal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good .
If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the
bi-metal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bi-metal
already wired together . This would be the advisable replacement part . However , each part
can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bi-metal and the top plastic
" cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bi-metal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its
designed function .

Jun 13, 2010 | Maytag 25.6 cu. ft. Wide-By-Side...

2 Answers

Coils freezing upevery 2 weeks or 3. goes upt to 48 in fridge ans 20 or so in freezer. runs great after i defrost it


Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10101 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp , when to cycle off , associated with the fan speed also .

May 30, 2010 | GE GSH22KGR Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Ice build up in back freezer wall & refrig on reg side is not cold enough


Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board ( you already know , since you changed it ) . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp , when to cycle off .

Jan 19, 2010 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

The back wall of my fridge is freezing up... I had a repair man replace two sensors and to no avail then I replaced the mother board and that did not work either... what now?


Unplug the refrigerator . Remove the motherboard cover . Remove the blue plug with large wires from the motherboard . Looking at the plug , you'll see wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Using a short piece of wire with both ends striped , insert the ends into wire2 and wire3 . Plug refrig back in . Look in the freezer at the bottom of the rear wall , for a red glow . May take several min . If no red glow , replace the defrost heater AND the defrost thermostat (bimetal ) . If red glow , bad control board .
The defrost heater and bimetal , are behind the rear lower panel inside the freezer section . The heater is at the bottom of the coils , and the bimetal is clipped on at the top of the coils ( blue and pink wire ) .

Sep 06, 2009 | Refrigerators

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