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Re: piece of garbage
Sounds like one has a bad ignitor and the other needs a new flame sensor. Check Mr. heater, all the parts are basically the same, just splice your wires to the old harness. No hot wire or ground so it does'nt matter how you hook them.
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The Beckett HeatManger is a microprocessor controlled device that will manage the on/off cycles of your boiler. Every time your boiler has to shut down and then restart your have just lost a bit of efficiency. By reducing the start/stop cycles of your boiler you not only reduce fuel consumption, but you also reduce wear on the parts of the boiler and emissions coming from your boiler. Your burner burns very inefficiently on startup and shut down. When I have my combustion analyzer on a burner it goes crazy with bad gasses right after shutdown.
If you have a fuel oil or gas fired boiler and you are wondering how you can save money on your heating bill without replacing your boiler then I have good news for you! By adding a simple device to the burner of your boiler you can be saving at least 10% in minutes
With this control if your thermostat requests heat and the HeatManager has sensed that there is heat available in the boiler, it will not start the burner until the heat is used up. When the burner is running, the HeatManger will optimize the runtime to match the boiler output to the load.
The unit is very easy to install. It is mounted to the junction box under the relay and wired into the normal burner relay wiring. There are a couple of sensors that need to be attached. One senses the supply water temperature for heating, coming out of the boiler and the other senses domestic hot water boiler supply temperature.
Even if you would decide to get a professional to install this unit you will be on the road to saving big dollars while only spending few hundred bucks. Then when the price of fuel oil and natural gas begins to rise again, which it will this winter, you will be getting even more savings from your small investment.
Saving money is always a good thing, but when you can combine saving money with greater comfort than I would call that a great thing!
Either the Thermocouple is loose from the control valve; The Thermocouple, if it's a stand-a-lone type has a lacquered finish on it from the propane and needs cleaning. Or, you're not fully depressing the control valve when it's in the pilot position, when you're trying to light it. Once the pilot lights, the knob should be held in for at least a minute, to allow the Thermocouple to thoroughly heat up.
I recommend that you thoroughly clean the unit, before attempt light if again or trouble shooting it.
is the sensor for the thermocouple located in the right spot in the flame,remove it and if you have access to a propane torch,heat the end till its red hot and leave it connected to the gas valve,then start the unit and this will tell you if the sensor is properly positioned in the pilot flame on the unit itself,if not you could have a defective new thermocouple or another safety device keeping it from staying lit or the gas valve is faulty
Do you have the serial number or the manufacture date? There are some design changes and I would need to know the year of manufacture to assist accurately. Usually it is a relay or the thermocouple connection that will affect the unit staying lit.
DO NOT attempt to repair this yourself. LP gas is a very unforgiving gas. Sounds like your heat exchanger is plugged. Yes it can be removed and checked, BUT it is not recommended. Trust your local repair tech. Any heater 15+ years old should be discarded.
I have a Paloma model RUTG-74PVP, I had the same problem after less than a year. The unit would operate for about 90 seconds and then shut off with an error code of C13. Paloma kept trying to blame it on "lack of combustable oxygen" ,, my unit is in the attic, so we added more soffit vents and an electric attic fan. We still had the problem and Paloma blamed it on the lack of a condensation trap (so I added one), & then on the 1" dedicated LP Gas line (so I had the propane guy come run a water column test). Finally, 4 months later , Paloma had a service man come down (100 miles away) to see what was wrong (He told them to replace it. They paid for the unit and labor. It ran perfect for about 9 months and then started doing it again. So I called the same representative and asked if they were gonna replace this one too? He said nope, it's no longer under warranty. But he did tell me how to fix it this time. It required taking the the whole unit apart and cleaning a ceramic piece in the very back of the heater. It was hard to get to, and it took about 2 hours of disassembling and reassembling. The good news is Paloma will walk you thru it on the phone and once it's was done, my system worked properly again. The bad news is,, it only lasted for about 9 months. So now I need to do it again. I'm hoping that someone will read this and tell me that there is a filter (like a gas filter) that I can install that is easier to get to.
ok, your unit must be propane. look on the back where the propane line feeds the nozzle. there should be a very small copper line with two spade connectors on it. this is your millivolt generator line. with a flame at the nozzle the generator makes a very small electrical current which feeds to the main valve and keeps it open. take a piece of wire and jumper these two spade connections together and try lighting the unit again. if it stays on, the hi limit is shot. you can get by with the connections jumped out, you just don't have the safety margin if it were connected. IF with the spade connections jumped out the unit still shuts off, the generator tube needs to be changed.
is this kerosene or propane. if kerosene, two types of ignition is used. a spark plug or a hot surface ignitor. the kero unit uses a cad cell flame detector, the propane unit uses a millivolt generator. the kero unit uses an air pump that comes off the backside of the fan motor - this airline goes to the nozzle and acts like a siphon for fuel. there is no air pump for the propane heater. the fan just accelerates airflow through the combustion chamber. the cad cell of the kero unit sees the flame and varies its resistance. it is sensitive to the infrared generated by the flame and feeds this signal to the lockout relay. no flame after a few seconds, opens and locks out the unit. the propane unit uses a millivolt generator. it is a copper cappillary tube that has two spade connectors on it. the spade connectors are connected to a high limit mounted on the backside of the combustion chamber. under normal conditions the hi limit is closed and completes the electrical circuit to the main valve. the millivolt generator is electrically connected to the pilot/main valve electromagnet inside. with a flame detect signal the electromagnet is energized and holds the main valve slug open allowing the propane to feed to its nozzle in the chamber. as long as there is a flame the valve stays open. no flame, no signal and the unit releases the valve pellet and closes. you can test the hi limit by jumping out the two spade connectors and see if the unit starts and stays running.