Question about Mr. Heater Big Buddy Heater
Mr heater makes a whistling sound as gas escapes around the gasket of the ceramic heating elements, that is ,all around the outside edges of the ceramic heating elements.
You can find out exactly where the gas leak is , by pressing down on the outside edges of the ceramic elements with a big, long
slotted (flat bladed) screwdriver while mr heater is running and hot.
The screwdriver needs to be long enough so that you dont burn your hands [the longer & bigger the screwdriver, the better] & it does not hurt to wear heavy gloves too, because it gets very hot, very fast in front of mr heater.
The thicker the blade of the screwdriver is, the less chance of damaging the ceramic heating element because a thick bladed screwdriver will not concentrate all the pressure in just 1 tiny point.
You are not trying to crack the ceramic with a wood chisel.
Dont press down so hard that you break the ceramic heating element, start by pressing down gently and gradually increasing pressure until you notice a change in the whistle or sparks comming out of the heating element as loose carbon deposits
come out of the heating element and burn in the propaine flame.
When you press down on one edge ,the other opposite edge may come up slightly, resulting in loose carbon deposits escaping and burning as sparks.
also, you may not be pressing at the spot where the gas whistling is comming from and will need to move the screwdriver flat blade around the edges, here & there, to test for the effect of pressing down.
When you press down on the outside edge where the diamonds stop, while mr heater is whisteling, the whisteling will stop & mr heater will run quite. Sometimes, just pushing down with the screwdriver will stop the whisteling ,for a while,and maybe a good long while.
The big pain in the **** solution is to put a new gasket around the
ceramic heating elements, but there is no guarantee that the new gasket will not whistle.
Its a big ,nasty job, which I would rather not do--so I just push down with the screwdriver, to temporarly stop the whisteling, I guess it depends on how much the whisteling annoys you, as to if you want to go thru all the effort & expense of changing out the gaskets, without knowing if it will still whistle when you are done.
Im just a diy guy that has 3 big buddys I keep going for 4 yrs now.
I took one apart to look 4 the cause of the gas whistling, and then put it back together. Funny,it stopped whisteling & that was 3 yrs ago. I didnt put in any new parts.
It may help ,a lot ,to increase the pressure with which the Mr heater ceramic is pressed down against the gasket material.
This is accomplished by a heavy stainless steel wire that runs behind the ceramic heater element and goes through sheet metal
tabs on each side of the ceramic mounting frame.
You can bend the wire and the tabs,but only a little bit, and be very careful not to break the tabs because the tabs are not repairable, to increase the downwards pressure of the ceramic element against the gasket material. This may stop the gas whisteling--
its a try & see thing, a finicky adjustment, that sometimes works
& sometimes does not and sometimes, after a week or two, the ceramic might reseat itself against the gasket material and the whistling stop. Mine did stop whistling, but not until a couple of months after i did the job, due ,i think to reseating of the cermic against the gasket material. its try & see thing.
also ,a gas tank that has higher than average gas pressure may start gas whistling up but the whistling will stop after you have burned up the higher pressure of the propaine.
Posted on Oct 07, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
ok, your unit must be propane. look on the back where the propane line feeds the nozzle. there should be a very small copper line with two spade connectors on it. this is your millivolt generator line. with a flame at the nozzle the generator makes a very small electrical current which feeds to the main valve and keeps it open. take a piece of wire and jumper these two spade connections together and try lighting the unit again. if it stays on, the hi limit is shot. you can get by with the connections jumped out, you just don't have the safety margin if it were connected. IF with the spade connections jumped out the unit still shuts off, the generator tube needs to be changed.
Posted on Dec 26, 2007
SOURCE: when I press down and
When the pilot lights continue holding the button down for a full minute and then release. It should stay lit then to allow you to turn it to the on position. If the pilot will not stay lit after holding it for the full minute, then the thermocouple will need to be replaced.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Sep 16, 2011
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