Question about Washing Machines
Water fill and drains properly, agitates properly, but does not spin at all. I am confident I can repair this myself, but I need an illustration/parts guide so I can pre-order the parts I need. Minimum downtime is the goal (I have three daughters!)
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: kenmore 70 series
Okay...I'm a little confused on your symptoms. You initially said it fills, but doesn't agitate or spin, but drains.
Then, you finished with the washer filling, no agitate or spin, but now doesn't drain.
Which one is it?
The symptoms you describe are usually associated with the following:
1. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or drain - lid switch.
2. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin, but still drains - motor coupling.
3. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or spins slow - gear case.
4. Fills, agitates, spins, but does not drain – water pump.
NOTE: These are the more common failure items with these symptoms.
Double check the lid switch by opening and closing the lid. You should hear a clicking noise to indicate the switch is working. The switch is located under the top panel along the wash tub rim on the right-hand side. If not, check to make sure the lid strike (small plastic piece on the lid itself) is in place. This activates the lid switch when the lid is closed. Also, check the mounting screws along the rim (there are two of them) to see if they are tight.
If the motor coupling were bad, the washer would still drain, but there would be a rattling sound as the washer tries to spin or agitate.
If you need replacement parts, go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number in the "Search by Model Number" window. The lid switch can be found under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part #3949238). Instructions on how to replace are located at the following link:
If you wish to replace the motor coupling, the part can be found under the “Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump” heading as item number 13 (part #285753A). If you need instructions on how to replace, just follow this link:
Now, there’s a couple of ways to drain the washer. If it’s a simple lid switch problem, you don’t need to drain the washer to replace the switch. With a broken switch repaired, the washer will run and drain by itself. However, if you wish to drain the tub you can use a shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain hose. This may take a few times depending on the size of the shop vac. These wash tubs typically have about a 35 gallon capacity. If you do not own a shop vac, you can by-pass the lid switch by jumpering the two BLACK wires at the lid switch connector that is connected to the console. CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before jumpering, then plug back in.
I hope this information is helpful to you. If I’m wrong about the symptoms, please post back and update me on what the washer is or is not doing, so I can assist you further.
Posted on May 15, 2008
Common problem with these top loading Kenmore models.There are many step by step solutions on replacing whats called the motor coupling(3 pieces) An easy way to tell if this is your problem when you pull the washer out you may see a pile of black(or maybe even white) shavings right under the motor.The coupler keeps you from doing damage to the gearbox and breaks away first.It's a pretty easy repair if you follow the step by step instructions found on this site.(sorry I don't know how to linc for you) I just read a bunch of them and even found a couple that were on youtube showing video.The part is readily available on line or in my case at an appliance repair shop close to me.The hardest part of this repair for me was just getting the cover off first,but once again there are step by step instructions for that on here as well.The part is about 13-17 dollars,and it is a little tricky getting the one end on the gearbox,but take your time and follow the help full guides and it really isn't that bad.The cause for this problem seems to be first of all the material that the part is made of,but is mostly caused(from what i have been reading) is overlaoding of your washer.
Hope this helps,doing this repair is a whole lot cheaper than calling Sears
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
Sounds like a lid switch. there should be a hole under the lid on the right side about the size of a dime. Make sure the plastic "flipper" is inside and "clicks" when you push down on it with a pen.
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
There are two possible causes. The most likely cause is the lid switch, which is supposed to keep you from sticking your hand into the moving basket. On many washers this only keeps the machine from spinning, but on other models it prevents agitating as well. The other possibility is the water level switch, but that usually causes no filling or overfilling if it's bad.
Both parts are available from Sears (www.searspartsdirect.com) and many other online sources. (I normally use the Sears site to find a part number if I don't already know it, then search for that number on Google. It's a great way to find good prices on more costly parts.) There are also a number of sites with detailed information about how to remove the cabinet to get at the parts if you want to try doing it yourself. Replacing these parts is pretty simple if you're comfortable with a screwdriver and have some mechanical ability.
If you'd rather have someone else repair the machine, this would normally be about a 1 hour plus parts charge for an appliance technician. It isn't time for a new washer yet.
Posted on Apr 25, 2009
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