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Whirlpool dishwasher heating coil is red hot in a 4 inch segment. Is this ok?

About 4 inches of the heating coil is red hot, roughly those inches closest to the dor. Is this normal? When I open the door, I can see it cool down, but is this safe to run?

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Whirlpool 6600 24 inch dishwasher: low pressure,arms not spinning

Your water pump is blocked. You will either call a repair person or disable the top of the pumb (inside the dishwasher, bottom) and check the water input duck. It just might be just some food, etc.. that is blocking the input. But if you don't see anything then it will be futher inside and will need to be removed and cleaned. BIG pain...

Best of luck. BTW, I have the exact same problem but mine is further inside so I have to remove the whole dang pump, arggggggg.

Rick

Posted on Apr 27, 2009

  • 1382 Answers

SOURCE: DIshwasher doesn't drain. 3-4 inches of water sits in the bottom.

A clog in the drain line or air gap (if there is one) is the usual reason that a dishwasher won't drain. Often the problem is at the point where the drain line attaches to the garbage disposer or household drain line. If you remove this line, you can clear any debris from the hose or hose connection. Be sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher again.

Many dishwashers use a drain valve with an electric solenoid. When electricity flows to the solenoid, the valve opens and diverts the water to the drain. Sometimes the solenoid, or the diverting lever, sticks and prevents the dishwasher from draining or filling properly. Try to free up the solenoid to lubricate the lever. Otherwise, you may have to replace the solenoid or pump assembly. With these systems, the motor always rotates in one direction. When it's energized, the drain valve diverts the water.

Other dishwashers simply reverse the direction of the motor to drain the dishwasher. These units don't have a drain valve. Instead, there's a drain hose connected directly to the pump housing.

Posted on Sep 25, 2009

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A dishwasher whirlpool fill water but no work wash.drain ok


Water temp is not hot enough.. Sensors. heating element might not be heating up to activate the pump to wash. Try making sure water is hot at the sink before starting dishwasher..

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Which is the exactly dishwasher dimensions


Hello giov..... the dimensions of the whirlpool DU930 require an opening that is 24 inches wide x 24 inches deep by 34 inches high.

Here is the manual showing these and many other measurements for this machine

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/installation_guides/3874/WHIRLPOOL-Dishwasher-L0409637?brand_name_search=DU930PWWQ0+WHIRLPOOL
Joe
Thanks for choosing Fixya!

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My dishwasher Whirlpool ADP 533-1, no heating the water. The temperature sensor NTC is OK. The relay in the electonic card is OK, but their coil no receive 12 VOLTs DC. I want de manuals of ADP 533-1



Hi,
Check your heating element..


A bad heating element causes many problems in dishwashers…

Dishwasher Problems The Heating Element not Working

Dishwasher Maintenance

heatman101

Asker's Testimonial " explanation very clear. will give it a go and see how simple it was. thanks Ronnie " - ronnieshomes


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I keep finding about 1/8 inch of water in the vegetable bins of my Whirlpool fridge, and 1/4 inch water below the bins. Why?


Remove the food and the ice maker from the freezer ( if equiped ) . Remove the rear freezer panel . Using a hair dryer , start in the middle , below the coils , defrosting , until you see the drain hole . Use hot water to help defrost the hole . Once water starts going thru the hole , use a small hose inserted into the hole , and blow thru , to remove any unseen debris in the drain line . Use an ALUMINUM or COPPER solid wire , 14-16 guage , with the insulation completely off , and insert one end into the drain hole as far as possible without any force . Wrap the other end about 1 1/2 to 2 turns , around the black rod (defrost heater) , above the hole . When refrig goes into defrost , the heat will transfer from the heater , to the wire , keeping the hole from freezing up again .

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1 Answer

No heat from dryer


This is a common problem with ALL electric dryers. What is most likely the problem is either a) your heating element has broken or b) your high limit cutoff has blown (this is simply a fuse that blows when it gets to hot). These problems almost 100% are cause from a vent that is clogged.

To know if your vent is clogged you go outside where the dryer vent exits the house. The air flow should be quite good, and you should be able to hear it from several feet away. If you feel no air, you have a clog. The clog MUST be fixed or you will have the same problem again.

To figure out what has gone wrong with the dryer we have to access the back of the machine. UNPLUG the dryer from the wall. Pull the dryer away and get behind. Remove the back panel (8 1/4 inch screws). The heating element is at the bottom right. There are two 1/4 inch screws holding it in. There will also be 2-3 wires on the left hand side. Note where these were plugged in, and then disconnect them.

Now, with the heating element in your hands you can see the coils. These glow red when the dryer works and get extremely hot. I pinch two coils at a time and look for a break. If you can visually see a coil broken that is your problem. If you have a multimeter you can check the continuity of the heater by touching your leads to the terminals the red wires you disconnected were plugged into. If the heater is fine, reconnect it.

Above the heater is the high limit cutoff. It has two wires going to it. The only way to know if it is good is to check it with a multimeter. If you know someone that can check the continuity, do it. These are 90% - 95% of the problem. But keep in mind, they are not the source of the problem. The heating element breaks for a reason, and the high limit cutoff blows for a reason. Check your vent!

Now, your model number is missing a character in between the 4 and the Q. I will need this to be complete and I can tell you the part numbers or the heating element and cutoff switch and an average price :)

May 28, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer runs but does not heat up


If the dryer is electric, keep reading.

This is a common problem with ALL electric dryers. What is most likely the problem is either a) your heating element has broken or b) your high limit cutoff has blown (this is simply a fuse that blows when it gets to hot). These problems almost 100% are cause from a vent that is clogged.

To know if your vent is clogged you go outside where the dryer vent exits the house. The air flow should be quite good, and you should be able to hear it from several feet away. If you feel no air, you have a clog. The clog MUST be fixed or you will have the same problem again.

To figure out what has gone wrong with the dryer we have to access the back of the machine. UNPLUG the dryer from the wall. Pull the dryer away and get behind. Remove the back panel (8 1/4 inch screws). The heating element is at the bottom right. There are two 1/4 inch screws holding it in. There will also be 2-3 wires on the left hand side. Note where these were plugged in, and then disconnect them.

Now, with the heating element in your hands you can see the coils. These glow red when the dryer works and get extremely hot. I pinch two coils at a time and look for a break. If you can visually see a coil broken that is your problem. If you have a multimeter you can check the continuity of the heater by touching your leads to the terminals the red wires you disconnected were plugged into. If the heater is fine, reconnect it.

Above the heater is the high limit cutoff. It has two wires going to it. The only way to know if it is good is to check it with a multimeter. If you know someone that can check the continuity, do it. These are 90% - 95% of the problem. But keep in mind, they are not the source of the problem. The heating element breaks for a reason, and the high limit cutoff blows for a reason. Check your vent!

Now, your model number is missing a character in between the 4 and the Q. I will need this to be complete and I can tell you the part numbers or the heating element and cutoff switch and an average price :)

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2 Answers

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1 Answer

Unit never washes...


Check water level:
Run the DW and wait for the main wash to start (water will fill. pause then complete fill) The water should be about 1/4 to 1/8 inch below the heating element. If not there..replace water inlet valve.

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2 Answers

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john, the dishwasher has a timed fill, make sure you are using 3/8 inch line. If you are using 1/4 inch, that would be your problem. The fill should be just below the heating element. If you are using the 3/8 inch line, the next suspect would be the fill valve itself. Make sure nothing is kinked, Catriver.

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