Question about Washing Machines

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The machine wont agitate under a small load.

Initially the washer wash seriously off balance. There was a bit of a burning smell. Ultimately it couldn't finish the cycle and I had to bail out the tub to investigate. There was serious wear on the belt. black belt powder was evident. the motor was very loose in her brackets. I eventually was able to tighten up the motor. In the process I discovered that the circulating pump seems worn out. The shaft and wheel are wobbly. When I reconnected things. I can run the cycle dry. It sounds strained though. I started a very small load. the water filled appropriately but the machine can't agitate. It made the effort and then gave up. Any idea what is going on? Can you give me an idea of when to go for it or give up on the machine? Thanks

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  • Expert
  • 291 Answers

I could likely tell you so much more if you could provide the model # . You certainly sound like the sort who is capable of fixing the machine. It sounds like you've done what a "tech" would do to this point and you've asked the next logical question, "is it worth it." So yeah, let's at least check some prices and availability of manuals. But we've gotta know the model number to get the detailed info. On the other hand if you said to me, it's a 10 year old GE top loader i could walk you through it step by step without a manual.
Let's do this thang.

Posted on Jan 05, 2013

  • RobG Jan 07, 2013

    It is a maytag Performa series. Need to get the number. It is at the house.

  • B.H. Countryman Jan 08, 2013

    It sounds like your snubber gasket may be worn out. The movement of the tub may have caused the damaged belt and discharge pump. Everything must line up and run true, so if pump is wobbly replace it, likewise belt should be replaced. It sounds like a lot might have gone wrong, and it may cost some $ to fix. However if the machine has served you well in the past and otherwise has been relatively trouble free it\'s worth it to fix. The fancy High Efficiency machines built today are mostly bad. I have five HE Maytags in my laundromat that are a constant pain. In fact, some of my best customers have HE machines. Also there are many, many, how to and DIY videos on You Tube now. Type "maytag performa" into you tube search bar and you may be shocked at the number of results that pop up. Also found this about the snubber: http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/10/19/maytag...

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: WASHER NOT AGITATING OR WASHING

This is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plastic piece called a “lid strike” on the lid itself. Make sure the lid strike is not broken off. This will keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and maybe agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you diagnose it and wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.

I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments.

Posted on Feb 16, 2008

Maanita
  • 1142 Answers

SOURCE: Washing machine won't spin or agitate

It doesn't spin If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

  • If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.


  • If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

  • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


  • The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.


  • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)


  • The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.


  • The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.


  • The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.


It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

Posted on May 29, 2008

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: Burning smell + Screeching sound but Belt is not the cause, then WHAT is?

A lot of people may be searching for help with horrible sounds and burned belts for Maytag and Admiral washers only a few years old from Home Depot etc. They used a cheap pump that has a corrugated sheetmetal ring that holds the bearings. Well as it runs the vibration and friction cause it to slip down and grind on the pulley as well as not turn easily. If you put the washer on it's back and turn the small pulley and it turns with a gritty feel or you can actually see a loose metal collar type ring thing that looks like a cookie cutte; then you have a bad pump.

There is a small access panel on the back of the washer. Three screws and two spring clips on the hoses and you're done (use big pliers on the hoses). Put the belt back on (just push motor to one side, it's not tight), then check for leaks and reinstall the cover. VOILA! You can find the pump on ebay for $25 or your local GE parts dealers for $50.


Posted on Sep 22, 2008

JR JR
  • 116 Answers

SOURCE: empty washer tub wobbles during spining, plus burning smell

BOTTOM OF TRIANGULAR PLATE ARE 3 SKID PADS, USUALLY WHITE OR BROKEN HALF MOON SHAPE WHEN WORN OUT RESULTS IN THIS

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: water runs into tub but does not fill?

be sure the drain hose is not lower than the wash tub this will caust the water to run out, 2nd be sure the drain hose is not pushed to far into the house stand pipe and the there is rome for air to go inbetween the drain hose and stand pipe eather of these will cause the machine to siphon mostly on rince cycle or on the 2nd and third loads you do. last your house drain could be starting to back up fill the washer with water and listen to it drain if you hear a gurggling sound in the house pipe you may need a plumber to cleanthis out for you.

Posted on Jan 20, 2009

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1 Answer

Dryer part, smells burnt and is extremely loud


If you notice a burningsmell in your washing machine, the cause could be any number of things. Regardless, this is one smell you shouldn't ignore. It's important to quickly diagnose the problem and find the solution.
The "Burning Belt" Smell

Older, top-loading washing machines use a belt drive to transport energy from the motor to the transmission and pump. The belt can prevent costly repairs to the motor or transmission by slipping, stretching, or breaking if there is a malfunction in the machine. If the belt slips, stretches, or breaks, it can cause friction and a burning smell, most likely a burning "rubber" smell.

The solution is actually quite simple: you need to replace the drive belt on your washing machine. You can call a repairperson or, if your washer is under warranty, the manufacturer. If you or someone you know is handy, you can replace the belt yourself. The belt is located either from the back access panel or from the underside of the washer.

Most new washing machine models are "direct drive." This means they do not use a belt. The motor is directly connected to the transmission. If you have a direct drive machine and your washer smells like it is burning, read on.
Electrical Problems

If your washer smells and you have a direct drive machine, it may be the motor, transmission, or both. If these are shot on your washing machine, the result may be an electrical burning smell. Both are necessary to run your washing machine and can be costly to repair. The first thing to do if you notice an "electrical" smell in your washing machine and not a "rubber" burning smell, is to unplug the machine and call the manufacturer or a repairperson.

An electrical burning smell may also be caused by a water leak coming into contact with electrical wiring. Both are major concerns and should be addressed immediately. A water leak can cause structural damage in your home and can short out the electrical wiring in your washer and cause additional damage to the machine.
Other Causes

Another more likely cause of a burning smell in your washer is overloading. Adding too many clothes to your washing machine can stress the motor or transmission, causing them to overheat or malfunction and emit a burning smell. For top load washers, overloading can cause the agitator to freeze or malfunction, stressing the drive belt and causing friction, which could emit a burning rubber smell.

To prevent overloading, know the size of your washer. They are measured in cubic feet. In addition, know how many towels, pants, shirts, and other items you can safely load. When it doubt, do smaller loads. Not only will this prevent overstressing the machine, it will also ensure clothes are thoroughly cleaned and rinsed.

Nov 07, 2010 | EuroTech Washing Machines

1 Answer

I accidently washed a large load of laundry without switching from previous small load selection; now washer has burning smell and wont work??


probably broke the motor coupling, it's made of rubber and plastic,when machine is out of balance it breaks, if you turn it on agitate or spin and you can hear the motor running but nothing spinning then it has broken, part cost about 20 bucks Try Repairclinic.com

Jan 31, 2010 | Amana 3.2 cu. ft. Top-Load Washer

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I got an estate whirlpool washer and it wont spin and i smell a burning smell


YOU HAVE SOMETHING STUCK IN THE WATER PUMP OR YOUR MOTOR COUPLING IS BAD

Jan 15, 2010 | Estate TAWX700JQ Top Load Washer

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GE Wizard Top-Load Washer - Burning Smell


sounds like an over heated motor. motors tend to do that before finially hitting a brick wall. please e-mail me for any other assistance. good luck :)

Jul 07, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Ge wasr311owoww profile washing machine wont spin or agitate


if the motor is spinning properly and you don't get any burning smell while the machine is in spin mode.then no need to replace the motor.only replace the clutch.this will help.motor goes bad very rarely in this units. ------------- for parts you can get it from ---- www.repairclinic.com ------- thanks.

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Ok can you take the front panel of the washer off easily?

If you can look for the motor pump assembly. Start the washer with no load, turn the water level down to the small and fill with water when it goes into agitation does it make the noise? if not turn timer to spin and see if motor makes the noise.

One other thought, maybe the smell is coming from the dryer?

Let me know. I wont be on line again until Friday Sorry

May 26, 2008 | Whirlpool LTE5243D Top Load Stacked...

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needs a new pressure switch located in control panel are the small rubber hose going from the switch to the tub has a pin hole in it

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The transmission might have locked up causing the motor to overheat.

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