Question about Washing Machines
Initially the washer wash seriously off balance. There was a bit of a burning smell. Ultimately it couldn't finish the cycle and I had to bail out the tub to investigate. There was serious wear on the belt. black belt powder was evident. the motor was very loose in her brackets. I eventually was able to tighten up the motor. In the process I discovered that the circulating pump seems worn out. The shaft and wheel are wobbly. When I reconnected things. I can run the cycle dry. It sounds strained though. I started a very small load. the water filled appropriately but the machine can't agitate. It made the effort and then gave up. Any idea what is going on? Can you give me an idea of when to go for it or give up on the machine? Thanks
I could likely tell you so much more if you could provide the model # . You certainly sound like the sort who is capable of fixing the machine. It sounds like you've done what a "tech" would do to this point and you've asked the next logical question, "is it worth it." So yeah, let's at least check some prices and availability of manuals. But we've gotta know the model number to get the detailed info. On the other hand if you said to me, it's a 10 year old GE top loader i could walk you through it step by step without a manual.
Let's do this thang.
Posted on Jan 05, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: WASHER NOT AGITATING OR WASHING
is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing
the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid
switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand
side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plastic piece
called a “lid strike” on the lid itself. Make sure the lid strike is not broken
off. This will keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid
switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing
near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes the rod can
be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case,
if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and maybe agitate,
but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you diagnose it and wish to
attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to
replace if you follow the steps below:
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.
I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments.
Posted on Feb 16, 2008
It doesn't spin
If your washer won't spin, check these:
It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
Posted on May 29, 2008
A lot of people may be searching for help with horrible sounds and burned belts for Maytag and Admiral washers only a few years old from Home Depot etc. They used a cheap pump that has a corrugated sheetmetal ring that holds the bearings. Well as it runs the vibration and friction cause it to slip down and grind on the pulley as well as not turn easily. If you put the washer on it's back and turn the small pulley and it turns with a gritty feel or you can actually see a loose metal collar type ring thing that looks like a cookie cutte; then you have a bad pump.
There is a small access panel on the back of the washer. Three screws and two spring clips on the hoses and you're done (use big pliers on the hoses). Put the belt back on (just push motor to one side, it's not tight), then check for leaks and reinstall the cover. VOILA! You can find the pump on ebay for $25 or your local GE parts dealers for $50.
Posted on Sep 22, 2008
BOTTOM OF TRIANGULAR PLATE ARE 3 SKID PADS, USUALLY WHITE OR BROKEN HALF MOON SHAPE WHEN WORN OUT RESULTS IN THIS
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
be sure the drain hose is not lower than the wash tub this will caust the water to run out, 2nd be sure the drain hose is not pushed to far into the house stand pipe and the there is rome for air to go inbetween the drain hose and stand pipe eather of these will cause the machine to siphon mostly on rince cycle or on the 2nd and third loads you do. last your house drain could be starting to back up fill the washer with water and listen to it drain if you hear a gurggling sound in the house pipe you may need a plumber to cleanthis out for you.
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Apr 28, 2014 | Maytag HAV2360A Top Load Washer
If you notice a burningsmell in your washing machine, the cause could be any number of things. Regardless, this is one smell you shouldn't ignore. It's important to quickly diagnose the problem and find the solution.
The "Burning Belt" Smell
Older, top-loading washing machines use a belt drive to transport energy from the motor to the transmission and pump. The belt can prevent costly repairs to the motor or transmission by slipping, stretching, or breaking if there is a malfunction in the machine. If the belt slips, stretches, or breaks, it can cause friction and a burning smell, most likely a burning "rubber" smell.
The solution is actually quite simple: you need to replace the drive belt on your washing machine. You can call a repairperson or, if your washer is under warranty, the manufacturer. If you or someone you know is handy, you can replace the belt yourself. The belt is located either from the back access panel or from the underside of the washer.
Most new washing machine models are "direct drive." This means they do not use a belt. The motor is directly connected to the transmission. If you have a direct drive machine and your washer smells like it is burning, read on.
If your washer smells and you have a direct drive machine, it may be the motor, transmission, or both. If these are shot on your washing machine, the result may be an electrical burning smell. Both are necessary to run your washing machine and can be costly to repair. The first thing to do if you notice an "electrical" smell in your washing machine and not a "rubber" burning smell, is to unplug the machine and call the manufacturer or a repairperson.
An electrical burning smell may also be caused by a water leak coming into contact with electrical wiring. Both are major concerns and should be addressed immediately. A water leak can cause structural damage in your home and can short out the electrical wiring in your washer and cause additional damage to the machine.
Another more likely cause of a burning smell in your washer is overloading. Adding too many clothes to your washing machine can stress the motor or transmission, causing them to overheat or malfunction and emit a burning smell. For top load washers, overloading can cause the agitator to freeze or malfunction, stressing the drive belt and causing friction, which could emit a burning rubber smell.
To prevent overloading, know the size of your washer. They are measured in cubic feet. In addition, know how many towels, pants, shirts, and other items you can safely load. When it doubt, do smaller loads. Not only will this prevent overstressing the machine, it will also ensure clothes are thoroughly cleaned and rinsed.
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