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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Pool Heater Mis-reading Temp.
Your temp sensors are on the heater, a small tube that slides into the water manifold, usually on the left side. On the remote it will be in one of the pipes coming from the pump or the filter. If it is after the heater you should move it to between the filter and heater. It will be a tube that is in the pipe with a stanless steel clamp holding it in place.
To find out wich one it is you will need to remove the remote from the system by takeing the wires that go to it from the wireing inside the heater and wire nuting the wires in the heater together. If the heater runs normal then it is the sensor for the remote if not it is the sensor for the heater. Let me know how you do and if need be we can get a little more specfic for your system. good luck.
Posted on Mar 29, 2010
turn off the power to the spa. remove the cabinet under the topside remote to expose the equipment compartment. You should see the flow switch, it's usually a threaded 3/4" plug with a single grey wire coming out of it. Most of them are threaded into a tee or a special transparent fitting. If the water level in the spa is above the flow switch, you may have to drain the spa down unless you're very fast about getting the new switch in. Unthread the old switch and thread the new one in. Follow the wire on the old one to the spa pack. You'll have to remove the screws on the cover to expose the circuit board. Follow that wire into the spa pack to see where on the circuit board that it is plugged in. It may be good to run the new wire to have in place as soon as you unplug the old one you can install the new one with no question as to where it plugs in.
Reinstall the cover on the spa-pack and turn the main power back on. Make sure that the arrows on the new flow switch are facing the correct direction (direction of flow). Once you have the spa on and it starts back up, run everything to check for leaks and proper operation. If the flow switch was the only problem, all your faults should be cleared and you should be in good shape. If there are no leaks, you can reinstall the cabinet panel.
The new switch should already have teflon tape on the threads, if not, use teflon tape, apply the tape in the direction as if you were threading a nut onto the threads. You only need a few wraps of teflon tape, too much can crack the fitting you threat the new flow switch in to.
Posted on Nov 07, 2009
Don, I suspect the error message is the cause of your problems. A flow error is either real (low flow) or not (bad flow switch). Either way, you get the error code displayed. Always take the filter out of the equation first to make sure it's just not a dirty filter causing the issue. A sand filter can be placed in the "bypass" position or a filter cartridge could be removed. Restart the pump and see if the error code goes away. If it does, clogged filter, real flow problem. Clean / replace the filter. If it does not go away, locate the pressure switch, pull off the two leads and jump them together. If the code goes away, false problem, bad switch. Replace it. Rob
Posted on Apr 22, 2010
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Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.
Generally speaking, an FL error, or any error with FL in the message, deals with flow switch failures. The switch ensures there is enough system flow so the heater will not over-heat the water. It may be the switch itself is bad but you should first check for system problems that will cause this switch to open.
Assuming your pump is on and any valves in your pipes are set correctly it could indicate something is restricting water flow too much and needs to be cleaned to fix your flow rate and allow the heater to switch back on.
Start at the skimmer(s) baskets and then the pump strainer basket if so equipped. You should also clean your filter(s). If your cartridge(s) are older, washing them off may no longer return them to a clean enough state to allow enough water to flow. At start up there is enough flow to close the switch but as the water starts to circulate they quickly load up. The switch remains closed until the system shuts off the first time but then will not re-close until the system has settled enough. At least that is one possibility.
If nothing changes after this maintenance you should replace the switch. You do not need to buy the exact same part; only one rated to operate at the same voltage and that has the same method of connecting it to the pipe well.
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