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No, you don't need to know how deep they are.
Usually the rubber tip called a plunger is all that needs to be replaced.
You'll need to know your model number or easier is to just bring the old one with you to the store.
On this page is an excellent diagram of a Clayton Hydrant.
The regulator on the heater probably is not but is probably a device to prevent the heater being used unless the gas pressure is high enough and also serves to prevent air entering the gas line and also serves to arrest flashbacks.
The standard propane low pressure regulator is 14" water gauge but the heater might need a high pressure regulator. The best way to decide which type of high pressure regulator to use, because there are several, is to use an adjustable regulator.
After installing the adjustable regulator the pressure is increased until gas can be heard to be flowing and the heater lit. The regulator should then be adjusted to produce a clean flame of the correct length and then the regulator adjustment locknut should be tightened.
If the heater is to be used indoors it is important to ensure there is plenty of ventilation and the emissions are checked by a gas engineer.
Loosen the packing nut at the bottom of that rod that goes into the pipe/handle. Go to an autoparts store and buy a slide hammer. Unhook the handle from the rod and connect the slide hammer using any bolts etc that you have. Use the slide hammer straight up to free the rod. Tighten the packing nut back down to stop leaks, or DIG the whole thing up.
The A/C system requires pressurized Freon to work. As long as there is still some pressure remaining in the system, there is hope to solving the problem. A bigger problem is created when outside atmospheric air seeps into the system because it contains humidity and that type of air can be compressed, but has no ability to work like Freon. A complete purge of the system with an electric Vacuum pump would be needed after fixing the leak which caused the seepage.
But if your A/C has pressure, there is a chance Freon with a sealer could be added. What happens is there are 2 shut-off switches working from Freon pressure, a low and high range pressure switch. If you are low on Freon, an access port can used to add Freon.
You would attach a can of Freon with a sealer and follow the instructions for refilling the unit. There are some cans with a gauge and hose attached. Otherwise a guage set, called Manifold guages would be needed. In some cases, with extremely low pressure, the low pressure switch would need to be bypassed with a jumper wire.
The car engine must be running to do this. So care is needed to avoid moving parts.
A drip is caused by seepage from the water supply. Remember the water supply enters your home under pressure, so there must be a watertight seal holding back the incoming water when the faucet handle is in the OFF position. That seal is usually created by a washer pressed tightly against the faucet seat. Obviously, when the washer or the seat is not functioning properly, a little water can seep through and drip out of the faucet spout. To stop the drip, all you usually have to do is replace the washer or repair the seat.
The 850SB is a lead-free hydrant and the 850SB repair kit maintains that lead-free build.
The two repair kits are identical beyond that lead-free status. If you have the 850 hydrant, the 850 repair kit will be fine. Since the rest of the hydrant may contain lead, there is no advantage to using the lead-free parts. (If you live in California, you may need to get the 850SB kit. The rules for products with lead in California are a bit different than those in other places. So the company only sells the lead-free model there.)
sometimes if the water pressure to rotating sprinklers is too high, they won't work due to to much force ,, your system should be running between 50 and 70 PSI tops, if its more than that you need to add a pressure regulator to your system
Bear with me. The hole is not a weep hole, but a drain. When you shut the valve off, the water in the pipe should drain out this hole so the pipe doesn't freeze. When you lift the handle the rod in the center of the pipe raises a hard rubber bulb that lets the water flow and covers the drain hole so it doesn't run water all the time. To service the valve shut the water off, take the handle pivot bolt out. Loosen the packing nut in the center over the pipe, screw it out, lift the guts, - handle, rod and nut, out of the pipe, now you can see the rubber bulb. Screw it off and go to a good plumbing shop or plumbing supply. Replace the bulb and put it back together. The nut in the center tightens a packing to keep water from leaking around the rod. Too tight and it is too stiff. Too loose and it will leak. Also, where the center rod meets the handle there is an adjustment that allows you to lengthen the rod a little so the bulb is pushed down a little more. Maybe this is all you need. Anyway, you just got the whole load of hay. You can also screw the top part off the pipe and you don't have to disassemble the head. Put gravel around the bottom so when the pipe drains the water can get out. Don't leave a hose connected when it needs to drain.