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After being advised that my Hoover tumble dryer hdc7fm heating element needed replacing,I replaced the above, but now the element still doesn't work & heat up. Any advice would be welcome. Thanks.

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  • Master
  • 429 Answers

Test your thermal fuses for continuity with a meter

Posted on Jan 05, 2013

  • 2 more comments 
  • daz fletcher Jan 08, 2013

    Replaced heating element but still no heat,even the timer doesn't go around like it should.
    tested the relay switch & that is ok.

    Any other advice would be most welcome.

  • Bill Eager Jan 09, 2013

    Do you have a volt meter? Disconect the element, test with a meter for continuity, same for therostat and thermal fuses, then connect the system and discont the system from the control board, test for continuity, we need to prove the heating system is good as a unit. Have you ever turned the timer backwards??

  • daz fletcher Jan 09, 2013

    Tested the thermostats which are fitted to the heating element & there ok.
    The timer has not been turned the opposite way.
    Don't know where to look for any other of the above i.e. fuses.

  • Bill Eager Jan 09, 2013

    go back and recheck you model number, nother comes up under what you posted

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SOURCE: replacing Kenmore dryer parts

that one is old enough to vote..if filter on top remove back find small hole on right just below top may be hidden by pasted on tech sheet..through hole insert long socket 5/16 or reach up from underneath with short ratchet and socket remove screws and attached wires lift element housing up slightly and pull bottom of housing out and down..5/16 screw on backside holdes element in

Posted on Jun 19, 2008

  • 62 Answers

SOURCE: Gorenje Tumble Dryer WT 881 - how do I replace heating element fuse?

I would start with house fuses or breakers, if breakers then turn breakers off then back on several times then try the dryer again. Then I would check the cord where it connects to the dryer. After that I would start checking elements, thermal overloads/cutoffs, etc. most dryers have several normally closed t'stat/ overloads and a thermal fuse. If the thermal fuse or cutoff is blown you also need to check your venting. these safety fuses are not resettable and are usually an indication that the vent may be clogged and/or obstructed.

Posted on Nov 05, 2008

astruttman
  • 45 Answers

SOURCE: dryer blows house fuse --keeps tumbling--no heat

If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.


If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

Now, if your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. You have to remove the entire front panel on some models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.

Posted on Jan 11, 2009

  • 188 Answers

SOURCE: dryer will not heat

Check to make sure you have 240V at the outlet. If you do, check the continuity of the element and thermostats. If still no heat, it could be the temperature setting switch, the timer or the motor.
Good luck!

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel DEGX2 Dryer. Need heating element changed?

I had the same problem. Everyone continued to tell me that I needed a new heating element, clean lint trap, etc. However, I took the front off of the dryer and located the heating element. On the front of the heating element, in between two wires, there is a red button. Push the button and you might hear a click that sounds similar to a circuit breaker. It is a reset button for the heating element. Try that and it might help.

Posted on Jul 27, 2009

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Find the model number and put it into repairclinic.com and find the heating element. They usually have a video on how to replace parts.

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Power from the house

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

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Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating element is easy to replace. Check our videos for other types of dryer heating elements.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and easy to replace.

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

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see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Power from the house

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating Element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating element is easy to replace. Check our videos for other types of dryer heating elements.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and easy to replace.

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

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hello zack... Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected. I know you indicated that the Heating element was checked but here is how you do it. Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

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My hoover tumble dryer Hnc175 wont heat up,is still working as normal, just no heat, i have cleaned out the filters and still not working


Heating elements can fail. These are relatively easy and economical to replace. The heating element is not necessarily the culprit if your tumble dryer does not get hot, however. There are thermal overload cutouts fitted to many machines. If they fail, the current will not be passed to the heating element. Replacement is again, fairly straightforward.
Tumble dryers will often have thermostats fitted. A heater control one, and an exhaust thermostat. The first keeps the temperature correct. The second, as its name suggests, monitors the temperature of the exhaust (in case the airflow in the machine is impeded) Once again, replacement is not too much of a problem.

http://www.repairclinic.com/Dryer-Troubleshooting
Please look, at the link above, it will show you how to perform troubleshooting. procedures and repair.
If you feel you don't want to do it yourself, please call a Hoover Tech, and get it looked at. Ask for a "Quote" for the repair, so you get an idea of whats what.

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Hi, looks like there's 1 of 2 faults. Either the stats or the heating element. They are located at the back of the TD, covered bi a screwed panel. If you have a multimeter, turn it to buzz and check the connections. If the meter buzzes it's ok, if the meter doesn't buzz it's dead and needs replacing.
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