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Re: maytag performa runs no heat how do I access the...
Well if it runs then the fuse is ok so what you need to do is pop the top and check the high limit thermostst and heating element located at the rear of the machine. The top on most of these machines comes up easilty if you use a putty knife or five in one. Be sure to disconect the power source.
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A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.
Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.
are a number of different problems which can occur with models of
Maytag dryers resulting in them not heating and drying clothes
properly. A variety of parts could have broken or been worn out over
the course of the time you have been using your dryer or something
could just malfunction, as appliances tend to do from time to time.
Check warranty information before trying to repair the Maytag dryer
Bad Heating Element
Most clothing dryers heat up and dry clothes with a heating element
inside the appliance's body. Maytag dryers are no different and
sometimes these heating elements break down or burn out, making the
dryer cease to get hot. Make sure the dryer is unplugged and the
breakers that run the dryer are switched off before inspecting so you
don't electrocute yourself. The heating element is in the bottom panel
of the dryer and is often a silver part which heats up when the dryer
is on. Sometimes the heating element will be cracked or burned out,
which means it is broken. Other times it won't look damaged but may not
be working. Replace the heating element if this occurs, to see if this
is the main problem.
Maytag dryers have motors which turn the dryer drum, tossing the
clothes so that air and heat can help dry them out completely. When the
dryer drum is not turning it means there is something wrong with the
motor or that the motor is not getting power. Unplug the dryer and take
it apart to inspect the motor. Once you have found the motor, plug the
dryer back in and use a meter to see if the motor is getting power. If
it is, and isn't working, then there is something wrong with the motor
and how it is operating. If the motor isn't getting power, then there
is something wrong with the circuits or fuses which disperse power to
the motor itself.
When Maytag dryers won't tumble or heat the clothes which have been put
inside of them, this means there could be a number of different things
wrong. However, sometimes there's a simple solution to this problem:
The switch on the door of the dryer itself may be faulty or not making
the electric connection it should to allow the dryer to run. This is a
cheap fix and worth troubleshooting before tearing your Maytag dryer
apart. Remove the switch and inspect the two leads to make sure they
haven't broken or are still transferring electricity. If they aren't
you will have to replace the switch.
Hi and welcome to FixYa. You should check the dryer vent ducting inside and outside the dryer for restrictions / clogs to include the vent flapper. Poor air flow through the dryer will cause hot spots. If the blower is slipping on the motor shaft this too can cause poor air flow.
When you change the heating element AGAIN... break out the crevice tool and de-lint everything you can access. Also pull out the lint filter and wash it with white vinegar and water then soap and water. Fabric softener sheets material builds up on lint filters. It looks clean but air will not pass through the lint filter.
I think once you get it all ceaned up including all of the ducting to and through the outside wall it will work normally with no problems. I do not think at this time that you have an electrical problem with the outlet supply.
There is one more thing to check and that is the high limit thermostat. It could be STUCK. It will most likely be labeled L180 or L190. That thermostat is suposed to open at either 180 deg or 190 Deg depending on which one is installed. If it does not open then you will keep cooking your elements. We test them with a match and an Ohm Meter. Match under the removed thermostat CLICK. Thermostat opens (no resistance)
Wish ya the best.
Thanks for using FixYa.
If anything in the future crops up with this same issue.
First make sure that the dryer is vented properly, then check the blower wheel. A common problem is for the center of the blower wheel to get rounded out through wear and tear, allowing the blower wheel to spin on the shaft, thus not spinning at the same speed as the motor. I will attach a photo for reference. Sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.
my dryer was working perfectly fine, but I think i had way too much laundry this day. anyhow, it just stopped working. the weird thing is the timer still runs I turn it to 90 and then it stops at 0. WEIRD!! i had my dad and husband take it apart, but of course we are reading the blueprints and tring to find matching numbers but no can do. we give up. HELP
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