Question about GE Profile Wizard DPSE592EAWW Electric Dryer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If your blower stops working, the element will overheat and trip the high limit, thats is why you have no heat.
The trick is to find out why the blower isnt working. It should be found under the dryer. Its possible that there may be a loose wire. It could be getting ready to go out. I would run the blower motor, observe it when it stops, then take a voltage reading. If voltage is presnet at the blower motor, and the motor isnt working, then the motor needs to be replaced. If voltage is not present, then we must determine why.
If your dryer is not getting any heat, you need to make sure there is nothing blocking the front of the dryer. Air flow is key to efficient drying. Make sure the dryer settings are appropriate for the clothes you want to dry. The timer selection, fabric selection, and the temperature selection all play important roles in proper dryer operation.
Check the heating element, burner operation, ignitor, thermal fuse, and the wiring (power cord).
Visually inspect your heating element for any broken or burned areas. The heating element is a coil made from a nickel-chrome alloy, called nichrome. Check the coil for continuity with a Volt Ohm Meter. If there's no continuity, it means that the element is bad and you need to replace it. An electric dryer should have it's own separate power line.
When the burner is operating properly, the flame should be clean and blue.
If the ignitor is cycling without the burner lighting, you probably have defective electrical coils in the gas valve. These coils look like black cylinders with wires coming out the top of them, and are located near the burner valve assembly. When they get power, they open up and allow the gas to get through to the burner. If this is a new installation, make sure the gas valve is turned on.
If the ignitor doesn't glow, look for a white or yellowish discoloration, or for a break in the ignitor. If this is something visible, just replace the ignitor. If there are no obvious signs of a break or burnt area, test it for continuity. If the ignitor doesn't have this type of problem, you'll need to determine if the problem is in the control area, or somewhere else within the burner system. Test for 110v getting to your burner assembly.
Here's a test you can perform: Unplug your dryer and then open up the burner inspection panel. Unplugging your burner assembly unit, you want to connect your jumpers for the Volt Ohm Meter to the dryer side of the assembly, not the burner side. Keeping your Ohm meter wires away from the drum area, set the timer to on, set the controls to high heat, and then plug the dryer back in. If there is 110v in this area, you can assume the thermostats in this area are good. If not, a timer, motor centrifugal switch, or other thermostat may be your culprit.
To protect from over-heating, many dryers use what's commonly called a thermal fuse. If the thermal fuse gets too hot, it will blow, and completely shut down your dryer until it is replaced. This fuse is often mounted within the exhaust duct in the back panel. It's about an inch long, and is usually found within a white plastic housing. When fuses blow, it means they have no continuity and no power will flow through it. A bad thermal fuse needs to be replaced. When replacing this fuse, check the dryer vents to make sure there is no lint buildup which can cause the heat to stay trapped and blow the fuse again.
You should visually inspect the wiring connections to the dryer from the house regularly. If you're opening the dryer case, give the wiring inside a good visual check as well. Lastly, never use an extension cord to operate this appliance. An electric dryer draws a lot of power, and the shorter the wiring to it, the better. The power cord connects to a terminal block in the back of an electric dryer. Sometimes this terminal can get burned out or ground to the dryer. Make sure the power is turned off, and look for scorching, burned, or broken connections. For electric dryers, one broken connection might allow the dryer drum and timer to operate, but there would be no heat.
If your clothes are wet then:
This is usually caused by poor airflow. Turn your dryer on and go outside to the vent. If there is not a strong airflow, check your dryer duct vent, lint trap, blower, and also look for clogs and kinks in the vent hose or ducting. Ductwork inside the dryer may become clogged. Use a long flexible lint brush or vacuum attachment to clean these ducts. Make sure the air path is clear from the burner assembly or heating element all the way to the exhaust vent.
Some electric dryer heating elements have two circuits in them. Sometimes one can burn out. If one part is not working properly, this can lead to a dramatically longer drying time. If this happens, you'll want to just replace the whole heating element since the individual circuits are not available separately.
Another reason for damp clothes would be one of the cycling thermostats. These control the temperature in your dryer and when they fail, they prevent the dryer from heating well or stop it from operating altogether. To locate and replace a thermostat, follow the duct work that moves the air through the dryer. A thermostat has 2 to 5 wires attached to it, and the body is black or brown. On the end opposite the wires is a metal plate that is used to attach the thermostat to the duct work.
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Posted on Apr 07, 2008
it goes dead or blows the breaker or GFI when you plug it in or open or close
the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch
Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.
Door switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.
Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. Other times, it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jul 19, 2008
hi thanks for the question. i think the problem is with the lid switch . lifting the lid 10 times wont help if the switch is faulty check the lid switch thanks the appliance doc
Posted on Sep 28, 2008
3 to 4 hours is a long time. Get to the fans (behind the control panel) and check the screens for dust. Chances are the screens are clogged with dust and need to be cleaned so the fans can move air for cooling better. I had this problem on my GE JTP14, and after cleaning just one fan it can keep up with cooling the electronic area while the oven is running. It runs much less often.
Safety first! cut the breaker before removing anything with a nice conductive screwdriver! Hope this helps!
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
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