Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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Knocking Whrilpool Duet

HELP!! My Whirlpool duet Model GHW9150PWO makes a loud knocking noise during the spin cycle. The washer is level and it seems like the knocking may be coming from the cleats inside the drum. Two of the three are loose. With the door open I can shake the cleats a small amount and this may be the sound I hear when running. Has anyone had this problem or know of anything else to look for?? This is a loud knocking. I am ready to hang this washing machine at high noon!! Please reply, Mike Hall.

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  • Mike Hall Jun 29, 2007

    The fins inside the tub have no visible screws. Two of the Fins are loose enough to make the noise I'm hearing. Is there a clip and how do I remove to see if the clip an be tightened up. i found the drawing and it has no detail of these Fins. Please Reply, Mike Hall

  • homeryankee Nov 16, 2007

    Where's the best place to find the parts for these washers?

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The "cleats" inside the wash tub are actually called "fins". If they are loose try tightening them to see if the sound goes away. You should be able to tighten them from inside the wash tub. Some models have mounting screws that are accessible from inside the wash tub. However, if your machine is knocking like you say it is, it could be sign that one or more of the mounting shocks under the wash tub could be bad, the rear tub bearing could be going bad, or the drive pulley could be cracked or warped. Remove the lower kick plate and watch the shocks during the spin cycle. The shocks should vibrate some, but should not be excessive to the point that it causes an unbalanced spin. To check the drive pulley, remove the 3 screws from the washer top in the rear of the machine. The top should slide back some and then lift off. Watch the drive pulley behind the wash tub during the spin to make sure the rotation is smooth and even. Sometimes one of the arms on the pulley can crack or become bent and cause the pulley to wobble. More than likely, though, the drive belt would slip off. I have also seen where the hole in the center of the drive pulley starts to "round out". The hole is not perfectly round and has to flat sides. Sometimes over time the drive shaft will start to slip around the flat sides, causing the pulley to rattle during the spin cycle. If the rear tub bearing is starting to go, the washer will be very noisy during the spin cycle, and you may start to notice some stains on your clothes if the bearing seal has been breached. You can reach inside the wash tub with the unit turned off. With one hand, push up on the wash tub and release. If you can feel the tub moving up and down (even the slightest) this could be a sign that the bearing is worn out. Now this should be a noticeable metal on metal type feel. Not the normal motion of the wash tub moving up and down from the motion of the shocks. The tub bearing is not a cheap (or easy) fix. The entire back section of the rear outer tub shell has to be replaced, because the bearing is molded into the plastic. Check all the easy things first. Let me know if this helps.

Posted on Jun 28, 2007

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jun 30, 2007

    If there are no visible screws, then you may have to remove the inner tub to get to the clips, which are under each fin. The fins should slide out by either pulling towards you or pushing back, then lift up (some models differ). There is a metal tab (or clip) under each one that usually locks them in place, so they can't slide out. If they are locked in place, then you might not have a choice in removing the inner tub. You may also check the fins that are loose to make sure they have all the tabs required to hold them tightly in place. If not, it may be a simple task of just replacing the fins. Let me know what you find.

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Changed just the bearings and seal with success. Washer again quiet on the spin cycle. Not a bad job to tackle. Just take your time. I'm sure I'll be doing it again someday. total cost around $30, for do it yourself.

Posted on Feb 02, 2011

  • 2 more comments 
  • mrkrauel Feb 16, 2011

    How can you change the bearing if it is incorporated into the outer tub?

  • R-DIY Feb 17, 2011

    The Steel hub that holds the bearings is part of the outer tub. Pop the seal that is in front of the bearing out of the hub. Use a slide hammer bearing puller and extract the bearings out of the hub. Then a little trick is, put the replacement bearings in the freezer overnight, pull them out when ready to install. This will ease in them going in. Set the new bearing in the hub, place the old bearing on top of the new bearing and tap in with a hammer until seated. Just that easy. Not rocket science.

  • kedz4 May 15, 2011

    Hey R-DIY: could you post the bearing numbers/manufacturer along with the seal number and manufacturer. I couldn't find anything about that anywhere on the internet.

  • kedz4 May 15, 2011

    Hey R-DIY: could you post the bearing numbers/manufacturer along with the seal number and manufacturer. I couldn't find anything about that anywhere on the internet.

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Had an extremely loud knocking during the spin cycle. Took everything apart and nothing was noticably loose. However after seeing soulution 3 above I found that while the pully nut seemed tight I was able to tighten it about 1/4 of a turn more. This completely solved the problem

Posted on Mar 19, 2010

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My washer is doing this as well...three years old...just my wife and I at home.......the drum is supported by two bearings at the back of the plastic housing about four inches apart......the front bearing has gone bad due to water getting past the seal that is pressed into the plastic housing directly in front of it..........the front bearing is a 62mm x 30mm x 16mm ..with a viton shield on both sides...it is too rusty to get a number off of it........the rear bearing that is still good is a 6205Z with steel shields on both sides........both made in china....I popped the shaft seal out of the plastic housing and will replace the front bearing ...using the seal again as I expect it to be not available.......whirlpool probably wants you to replace the complete plastic rear drum housing...regards terryKnocking Whrilpool Duet - 3_18_2013_3_23_59_am.jpg

Posted on Mar 18, 2013

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If you remove the lower panel there are 3 torx screw that hold it on and look at the struts that attach to the bottom of the tub to the floor of the washer. One of the struts may be broken. That would cause a banging noise during the spin cycle. You also may want to check the springs on the top of the unit by removing the top cover. 3 torx screws hold that on in the back of the washer.

Posted on Jul 12, 2007

I found that the solution to my problem was the
Center Tub Nut was just about 1/8th of a turn loose. This gave some play in the tub which caused a loud clunking or knocking noise because the noise is amplified by the tub and the surroundings. I took the Bold completely off, took off the flywheel? (you know, it looks like a tire rim) and noticed that the noise stopped when the tub was being pulled tight toward the back of the washer. After replacing everything (The flywheel, the nut, the belt and the rear panel) the washer ran without the disturbing noise. Make sure you get that nut as tight as possible. It may be that I will have to replace that nut if the plastic that keeps it tight has been worn. I'm going to see how it goes for a while, but if the noise comes back I'm going to replace the nut right away. The longer you wait to handle something like this, the more problems you are likely to have. (And more in repair costs).

I wonder how much the repairman would have charged me to tighten that center bolt?

Posted on Nov 06, 2007

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I do not have a solution, but my washer is also makes a knocking sound during the spin cycle, but not everytime I run my machine..is this something I should wory about? and it also leaves a small amount of water in the back of the tub when the cycle is complete, but yet again its not everytime I run my machine..but its extreamly annoying when it does happen thanks Mike L

Posted on Jan 25, 2010

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