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Fault code 6 flashes

I am a heating tech and i am just confussed. Well i think its the board but just looking for a second opinion. Call for heat and the ventor motor starts. after a few seconds the ventor quits and the main blower starts and the fault code states it is reverse wiring, something to do with the ignitor or low voltage. The power comming from the board to the ventor is 120 to ground and 168 volts to neutral. I also have a an amp draw of 10amps at the ventor but if i check the amps at the line wire coming into the furnace i only draw about 1 amp which is normal. I am pretty sure it is the board but i am not used to the american standard furnaces. It is a new american standard stage with reg motor. The main power coming in is good and polarity is good and properly grounded as far as i can see.

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  • subzero_hc Jan 20, 2009

    The problem is that the ventor motor starts. and runs for like 5 seconds and shuts off. The voltage to the ventor is 168volts from line to the neutral in the plug connected to the ventor. when you go from line on the plug to ground on the plug you get 120volts. And if i am getting a 10amp amp draw on the ventor and only 1amp on the main power to the board, my experience would tell me there is alot of resistance in the circuts in the board that send power to the ventor. It just seems weird how i am getting 168vost when the power coming in is 120 and 1amps at the ventor and 1 amp overall. ..... i don't think the 24volt side has anything to do with this problem. it would however if the ventor was running longer and the fault code said the pressuse switch was not closing.

  • subzero_hc Jan 20, 2009

    Please explain how the 24volt system would cause the readings i am getting on the 120 side, ie. High amp draw and high voltage. again the ventor motor doesn't even stay running long enough( 5 sec, not even long enough to do a full pre-purge) for the pressure switch and the other compenents in the sequesnce of operation to get a chance to complete. If there were a break or faulty part in that loop the board would flash a different code. The code that is flashing indecates that it could be *a voltage issue, bad grounding, reverse polarity, ingnitor (resistance is good).. These all are properly hooked up. The furnace has been working for a month not and was installed by another contractor. The issue i am wondering about is how i would get 10amps only on the ventor and not on the main power to the board. would these boards sense that there is a high draw/high voltage to the ventor? I think a faulty relay in the board would cause the high amp draw to the ventor. Could it?



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Well, as you know the blower comes on because there is a control voltage (24V) failure.

I would trace out all the 24V wiring with the schematic to make sure someone didn't cross up a wire.

Then ohm out each component to make sure there is not a bad part in the 24V cycle.

Make sure you have voltage going to the ignitor from the board.

Obviosly the draft inducer motor is working, so thats not the issue. However the pressure switch could be having problems, thus interupting the 24 V cycle.

If you have power to the ignitor, and no ignitor op, then the board is OK. If the board is not sending power to the ignitor, after recieving signal from the pressure switch, then the board is bad.

Make sure the pressure switch is closing, and sending signal to the board.

Posted on Jan 20, 2009

  • Danny Clark
    Danny Clark Jan 20, 2009

    When you finally figure out what is wrong, and realize that there is indeed a 24V failure somewhere. Please repost here.

    To bad you won't be able to re rate then as well..

  • Danny Clark
    Danny Clark Jan 21, 2009

    Your potentially faulty relay could be the 24 problem I reffered to.

    I can't see how a relay would cause high amp draw, but a bad or restricted motor could.

    The 24 V system probably ISN'T causing the high amp draw. That sounds like a secondary problem to me. However a 24V failure WILL cause the blower to do as you described.

    I'd be looking for two problems not one.

    Personally, I'd jumper out/bypass the pressure switch just long enough to see if the ignitor starts to glow/spark. If it does then obviosly the problem lies with the inducer motor/pressure switch.

    Hypothetically, lets say that for whatever reason the inducer motor is going bad, or is all wrapped up with particlaes of that insulation pad that goes between the housing and mounting plate.

    That would cause a high amp draw right?

    Well then you also have the pressure switch pulling in a little, looks good visibly, but not enought to close the contact. You then have a 24V failure and the system shuts down and the blower motor comes on.



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