Question about Onkyo TX-DS777
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: remote problem on onkyo TX-DS777
ya thats the universal remotes having list of codes .
first you set up with the code that should match for your revelent make and model of your dvd player.
so you just go through with codeing list that accompany with purchaseing of universal remote.
and set up with code particularly for your make and model of your dvd player.
and finaly try with your dvd player.
ok all the best.
Posted on Nov 12, 2008
"Biwiring' is not an accepted term; I suspect you mean 'parallel.'
There are three different ways to connect loads (that is all your speakers are to the amplifier);
Assume that the speaker outputs are marked + (plus) and - (minus).
Series - if you connect a + to a - which is then further connected to another plus + which is then connected to another minus, this is a series connecton and if doing this with speakers, each load (let's assume 4 ohms) is additive; in other words 4 + 4 + 4 = a 12 ohm load. The current flowing through each load is identical.
Parallel - In this case, all the + are connected together and then to the + on the speaker connection. All of the - are connected and then also to the minus of the speaker output. In this case, all of the current is shared and not necessarily equally; the lowest load impedance (this is a complex combination of resistance, inductance and capacitance) will draw the most current. If you have all 4 ohm loads, they will all draw the same amount of current. If you have a mix of loads, the final result will be lower than the lowest of the loads.
If a graphical representation is better for understanding, go here:
Series & parallel circuits
In your case, if the output is specified as (for example) 4 ohms and you parallel two 8 ohm speakers, it will be a 'matched load' and safe for the amplifier. If you add a third speaker of 4 ohms, you will have a load well under 4 ohms, below the rating of your amp, and you risk damaging the amplifier if the output is not adequately protected against mismatches.
For your situation, you should look at the math on the Wikipedia link and avoid causing your amp to fail.
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
It seems like the internal fuse to me, too. But you could check to make sure that the receptacle works (maybe you've got a tripped breaker).
The manual also suggests unplugging and re-plugging the unit to clear "external noise" from the "computer circuits," but something tells me that you've already tried that.
Posted on Sep 20, 2009
Testimonial: "Now I have a new problem, no one can identify the fuse (12 A 250 V Ceramic), so I'ii take it to a pro. Thanks"
Ok, here is my little spin on remote controls.
Sometimes they can be overloaded with commands and lock up the processor that is inside the unit.
The remote can be saved.
1. Remove the batteries and press every button on the remote control and then install new, not the batteries you took out, but new batteries and see if that works.
2. If step one does not work, then you can remove the batteries and unfold a small paper clip and bend it into a U shape and use it to touch the contacts on both ends of the battery contacts together and clear the memory.
3. Test the remote control, if you have a camcorder or a digital camera, and a cell phone will work. Point the remote at the device and press any button, you should be able to see the IR (Infrared LED) lighting up on the display.
If after all of these procedures are followed and you still do not have command of the device that you need to control. You still have more options.
Either replace the remote control with a new or compatible one, I use 1-800-remotes, www.remotes.com.
Or have the device that you are trying to control diagnosed by a technician and see if the remote IR receiver in the unit has gone bad.
I hope that this helps you with your remote issues and as always, Thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Mar 16, 2010
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