Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Capillary tube replacement
The True TSSU-60-16 uses an oversized (134A) refrigeration system with air flow directed at the pans.... if the capillary tube is plugged it will NOT cool at all.. most of the time a restriction (plug) is at the drier where the capillary tube goes into it.. as it is smallest passage in the system...hope it helps
Posted on Sep 02, 2008
Check the cover in back of the freezer for for frost build-up. I think Frost reached the evap fan-blades and stopped it from blowing cold to the ref-side. Contro;s can be confusing. The ON-OFF controls how long the compressor runs, and the other dial how open or choked the airflow from the freezer into the refrigerator. Sometimes it happens that you have that flapper shut and no air is getting moved to the reefer. If frost is on the cover you have dead heater elements on the evap coils or a faulty hi-temp limit switch, which is the disc thingee at the top of the coils. A bad timer also may disallow it going into defrost - think about it. Chris in big bEar
Posted on Apr 20, 2009
There is a definetely leak in the cooling gas.
Firstly... You will need to find from where the gas has leaked. It is usually on the compressor pipes..... but not always.
Secondly you are right about the Water Valve... it needs to be changed.
Posted on Feb 02, 2010
SOURCE: I have a Marvel 61RF
Hello Chuck, Welcome to FixYa. As you are aware (or not) the sensing bulb (capillary tube is correct, as you suspected) is fixed to the thermostat body, therefore it must have the tube routed up to the evaporator careful not to kink it and it then fastens to the evaporator. It cannot be seperated. It is necessary to undo the evap. from the interior to fasten the "bulb" to the evaporator assembly. Since you've already jumped out the control to confirm it is indeed faulty you also know how it should fasten to the bottom by the grill. follow that cap. tube to see how it's routed. Some go up the outside back wall (which requires removing the back panel) and enter behind the evap. while some have a guided tube in which the cap. can be "threaded" or fed through. the exit hole by the evap. should have some "perma-gum" or puddy to keep moisture from migrating into the cabinet and prevent "short cycling" as well. Hope this helps clarify some uncertainty regarding the issue. Thank you for choosing FixYa. Let me know how you make out. Good luck. Regards, Macmarkus :)
Posted on Apr 01, 2011
SOURCE: I have a Electrolux GLHS38EGSB0
. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter. If it's good then it's most likely the compressor causing the problem.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.
Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm
Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.
Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).
If it's iced up really heavy you have an auto defrost problem. Melt the ice with a hairdryer and check the defrost system.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Posted on Jul 25, 2011
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