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I have a Siltal refrigerator with separate freezer compartment, the thermostat needs replacing but I can't get the capillary tube free, it passes back into the inner plastic skin of the refrigerator and disappears, so I can't see where it goes or where the end might be attached. I've tried pulling it on the hope that it just slides into the skin but it won't budge so I'm pretty sure it's attached somewhere, but where? Nothing seems accessible, on the rear of the refrigerator unit is just the "grille" from the compressor, and there's nothing beneath that either. Any ideas?

Posted by Anonymous on

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Krazytech
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SOURCE: Capillary tube replacement

The True TSSU-60-16 uses an oversized (134A) refrigeration system with air flow directed at the pans.... if the capillary tube is plugged it will NOT cool at all.. most of the time a restriction (plug) is at the drier where the capillary tube goes into it.. as it is smallest passage in the system...hope it helps

Posted on Sep 02, 2008

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  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: GE PSC23NSD SS refrigerator malfunction

Check the cover in back of the freezer for for frost build-up. I think Frost reached the evap fan-blades and stopped it from blowing cold to the ref-side. Contro;s can be confusing. The ON-OFF controls how long the compressor runs, and the other dial how open or choked the airflow from the freezer into the refrigerator. Sometimes it happens that you have that flapper shut and no air is getting moved to the reefer. If frost is on the cover you have dead heater elements on the evap coils or a faulty hi-temp limit switch, which is the disc thingee at the top of the coils. A bad timer also may disallow it going into defrost - think about it. Chris in big bEar

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

  • 90 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore bottom freezer refrigerator warming up

Hi
There is a definetely leak in the cooling gas.
Firstly... You will need to find from where the gas has leaked. It is usually on the compressor pipes..... but not always.


Secondly you are right about the Water Valve... it needs to be changed.
Regards
Berry

Posted on Feb 02, 2010

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Marvel 61RF

Hello Chuck, Welcome to FixYa. As you are aware (or not) the sensing bulb (capillary tube is correct, as you suspected) is fixed to the thermostat body, therefore it must have the tube routed up to the evaporator careful not to kink it and it then fastens to the evaporator. It cannot be seperated. It is necessary to undo the evap. from the interior to fasten the "bulb" to the evaporator assembly. Since you've already jumped out the control to confirm it is indeed faulty you also know how it should fasten to the bottom by the grill. follow that cap. tube to see how it's routed. Some go up the outside back wall (which requires removing the back panel) and enter behind the evap. while some have a guided tube in which the cap. can be "threaded" or fed through. the exit hole by the evap. should have some "perma-gum" or puddy to keep moisture from migrating into the cabinet and prevent "short cycling" as well. Hope this helps clarify some uncertainty regarding the issue. Thank you for choosing FixYa. Let me know how you make out. Good luck. Regards, Macmarkus :)

Posted on Apr 01, 2011

woodchuck789
  • 4066 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Electrolux GLHS38EGSB0

. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter. If it's good then it's most likely the compressor causing the problem.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm




Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).
If it's iced up really heavy you have an auto defrost problem. Melt the ice with a hairdryer and check the defrost system.



DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Posted on Jul 25, 2011

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1 Answer

Which is the measure of the capillary tube?? mi regfrigerator model is TFXW27F


Hello Roberto;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
Are you sure it is your capillary tube? If you found it broken, then you have lost your refrigerant. If you have found it broken, then you have a restriction in your seal system. In all of my years as a service technician I have never heard of a broken capillary tube.
A capillary tube is a short section of tubing 10-12" long. It is 1/16" in diameter with a sewing needle size hole through it. It is located coming off your evaporator coil in your freezer. On the one side of the capillary tube is 160 PSI of liquid refrigerant. The refrigerant passes through the capillary tube and transforms into 60 PSI of refrigerant vapor.
Don't give up. I am here to help you. Tell me more about what is happening, or better yet give me a call @ 443-306-1362.

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This all depends on the type of fridge. I had a problem with my fridge/freezer and it need a new thermostat.FIRST UNPLUG THE APPLAINCE FROM THE WALL SOCKET. Basically you need to get access to the thermostat and many models the control knob is on the inside and on some its outside on the top. You need to first undo the end where the capillary tube ends then remove the control knob. There is usually a nut holding the thermostat, remove that and also remove the electrical connector and simply pull until the whole of the capillary tube is out. Refit the new one in reverse order.

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hello,
Most times this is a bad cold control, but there are other things to check for. Make sure the condenser fan is working and the coils are not covered with dust. A separated heat exchanger ( small capillary tubing soldered to the large suction line ) can separate from one another and make the fridge run too long. - tape tubing back together. A poor working evaporator fan motor could also make the fridge run too long and freeze - replace the fan motor. An inefficient compressor or refrigeration system could make the fridge run too long and freeze - have a service tech check this out. A misaligned control settings, make sure the air damper and cold control have not been bumped and are out of normal settings. Stuck open air diffusers or air dampers are becoming more and more common for allowing too much air to be blown into the fresh food section and freezing things. On all frost free fridge's the freezer temp air is blown into the fresh food section, if you have "easy" to freeze items ( eggs, veggies in water, etc ) in front of or under where the freezer temp air comes out, they could freeze
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1 Answer

My chest freezer now runs continuously, I presume thermostat at fault. Is this easy to fix I am quite handy wth tools.


Good day,
They do a good job of hiding them, but it should be in the machine compartment near the compressor.
Not too hard to remove, but you must use caution, in removing the long skinny capillary tube that is inserted into the tube that runs into the cabinet. NO, IT IS NOT A WIRE. It carries a small refrigerant charge inside and if broken, the control is ruined.
Note: My experience, is the problem is a small loss of refrigerant charge in 90% of the cases, not the thermostat.
If the thermostat will not shut off, and the unit runs for in excess of 24 hours, the interior temperature should be colder than -10 degrees. Check first.
The purpose of a thermostat is not to turn the machine on, it's purpose is to turn it off.
If the freon charge is low, it will not reach the sensing capillary tube of the thermostat described above.

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Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

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You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.


Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.

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1 Answer

The freezer works fine but the top is warm


hi there,

there are several factor to be consider in this problem
thermostat is not functioning properly- check if busted replaced
capillary tube clogged- check capillary tube if there is ice
develop in part of capillary tube if clogged up-purge the
system.
Under charged on refrigerant-check by clamp ammeter
this solution should be done by certified ref/ac technician.call in to your service center.have a nice day

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