Question about Heating & Cooling
The unit runs fine. But the condenser surrounding the compressor is corroded and needs to be replaced.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First of all, Shut off power to A/C unit. !! Next,You need to remove the filter /cover ceiling assy, and with a flashlight, look way up inside and you'll see the cooling fins etc, that look similar to the back of the AC on the roof. If they appear dusty/dirty, then they need to be cleaned. I use a shop vac with a couple of extra extensions to reach, and duct tape a pot scrubber brush (half round or round with nylon bristles) to the extension. Then start as high as you can get on the fins, and come straight down, kind of like combing the fins, but not pressing super ******* them. Move over, and down again, until you get them all, or at least as much as you can. (Thats basically the same as your return air at home) I use the nylon scrubber because the brush attachment with vacuum is usually softer bristles, and doesn't get in there as well. If yours does, great.Make sure you wash out your foam filter in a little dish soap & water before you put inside cover/filter back up. Now to the best part, The upper unit on the roof. You need to remove the plastic cover, by removing the 4 screws holding it on, or if it's dometic type, screws all around near the bottom of the cover, and lift it off. The front of the colemans have a lip that the cover is down over, so you may have to pull cover forward & up, then it should all lift up & off. Here's a spot to be real careful, and ready for wasps & bees. Very few, if any that I've done over the years, haven't had a bees or wasps nest under them, so if you can do it on a cloudy day, or at least be ready to move quick, and have a wasp blaster spray with you, it may be smart. Just don't forget your on a roof when you start moving !! Another thing to remember too, is that the roof can be very slippery when wet, or dew is on it, so watch out!! Be careful !! Now with cover off, look at the fins on back of the unit, and clean those the same way, or spray with a garden hose, and soft brush, and clean them up. Next, look at the opposite side of those coils/fins, where the fan blade is in front of it, and lightly wash it down as best as you can with the hose, spray nozzle, and a brush if possible. Remember when using brush, up & down as much as possible, to avoid bending the fins over. If you can't brush it , just spray it as good as you can, to clean it. Water should not enter trailer, unless maybe if you go overboard with spray, and pressure. If you have access to an air-line to use up on the roof, that's good to, but a lot of times, the water will wash it down better. This will more than likely cure your problem, if you get it cleaned out. At the RV resort where I work as a Technician, we usually have a flat rate of approx. $50 CDN. for me to do it for you. 95% of the time it cures the early cut-out of compressor, and people actually report it cools better than it has for a couple of seasons. It has to be clean to do it's job properly. When those areas are dirty, the upper unit (compressor etc) has to work so hard to cool, it overheats & cuts out, until compressor cools down a bit, then comes back on, until it heats up too much again, and kicks out again. That's why it doesn't do it as much in cooler times, because compressor doesn't get as hot. Your also shortening the life of your unit too.
Posted on Aug 14, 2008
SOURCE: Replaced my 5-year old 3-ton 12 SEER Goodman outside condensing unit with an older 3-ton RUDD condensing unit because of lack of funds. Now the compressor has gone out on the RUDD. Is it better to rep
A new unit will be 13+ seer unless you can find someone that has replaced a compressor or has one left over from pre 2006 stock. Our wise Government with all its resources decided that we aren't smart enough to turn off the lights to save energy, so they chose to end the med and low price lines. And the same bunch of smart ones decided that now R22 because of its chlorien content being bad for the air (5% of what R12 was) so we have R410A and others that no one knows how much cancer or daMAGE THEY WILL DO OVER TIME. So now if you replace your AC unit out side with a new one be sure its compatable with the refrigerant inside and beware soem manufacturers wont stand up to full warranty if you dont buy an indoor coil and rerplace it too.
We get what we deserve in Washington DC and if our guy didnt support this stuf too many other folks guys did. We just dont talk about it enough. AND WE SHOULD. But then again you like me are probably RITCH. So we have to give up our wealth to the government so they can redistribute it and buy more votes. And we can stay working too much to talk about it.
Just burns my back side like a 4 foot flame.
Read tween the politics and you'll get my recomendation.
Buy your self a compressor and get someone qualified to install it or see if the old goodman one will interchange easily.
Posted on May 12, 2009
The fan motor is getting hot and going off on the internal overload in the motor.
This is caused by either a low voltage, a bad capacitor, or tight or dry bearings in the motor.
To check the bearings turn the power off to the unit, then spin the fan blade if it spins freely then the bearings are ok.
To check the capacitor you will need some kind of
tester or you can buy a capacitor and replace it, that's what a lot of people do. They usually don't cost very much.
To check the voltage you will need a voltmeter and measure the volts at the unit.
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
Turn the selector switch to “Cool” and the
thermostat to a low temperature (below room temperature).
The fan runs OK, but the unit does not cool. When the unit
housing is removed, we observe that the compressor does not
run; however, it periodically hums for 15 to 30 seconds.
Possible Causes- Check all of this before buying a new unit, that may not be the solution.
“The voltage could be low – ”
a) Check the voltage between #1 on the
overload switch and the “R” terminal of the
compressor while it is not humming. This
voltage must be 115 volts domestic USA
models or 240 volts export/overseas models.
No less than minus 10% is allowable.
b) Check the voltage from “C” or “R” of the
compressor while it is humming (trying to
start). The latter reading will probably be
lower, but it still must be 103.5 volts
minimum domestic USA or 216 volts
minimum export/overseas models.
If the first reading is above 103.5V domestic USA and
the second is under 103.5V domestic USA, there is
too much voltage drop in the lines - a situation which
must be corrected for the air conditioner to perform
safely and satisfactorily.
2. “A capacitor could be shorted, weak or open.”
Turn the power off.
Caution – There is always a chance that a capacitor is
holding a residual charge, so before touching a
terminal, discharge the capacitor as explained earlier
in this booklet.
Remove capacitors, visually examine them and test
them per instructions given in earlier section on
capacitor testing (See page 9).
If the capacitors test OK, replace them and carefully
reconnect the wires. Be sure the wires are connected
to the right terminals.
3. “Start relay contacts could be open – ” if so equipped.
Turn off all power, then check for continuity with
ohm meter between terminals 1 & 2.
4. “Compressor start winding could be open or
Check compressor windings per instructions. See the
section on the compressors (See page 8).
5. “Compressor could be mechanically stuck.”
This very rarely occurs and when it does, it is usually
after a lengthy shutdown. This should be considered
only after all the above possible causes have been
positively eliminated. To free a stuck compressor, use
your hermetic analyzer according to the
Posted on Jun 29, 2009
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