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6615 hydraulic problem overheating john deere

Hydraulics overheating

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: system creeps down even when tractor is operating.

There are 2 potential problems -
1. Leaking spool on the control valve - rebuild the vale.

2. Cylinder blow-by. Disassemble piston and replace the seals.

To test if its the cylinder - retract the cylinders all the way... remove the hoses on the blind end (non rod end) of each cylinder, and again pull the valve to the retract position.

If fluid continues to pour out of the cylinder - the piston seal is damaged, and the affected cylinder must be repaired.

To test if the valve spool is faulty - disconnect the a and b ports just after the valve. Turn on the system and check for seepage from the disconnected lines (without moving the lever).

Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Apr 19, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: John Deere 1020 Weak 3 point hydraulics

I would suggest you find a JD dealer and buy a manual if you want to do the maintenance yourself. You can also do a Google search and find manuals.

I would also suggest you completely drain the old hydraulic fluid and replace it with new fluid and a new filter if it has not been serviced any time in the recent past.

The symptoms you describe can be low fluid and/or a clogged filter. If you or anyone else has run the tractor too long and it has low fluids and/or a clogged filter, you can damage the hydraulic pump and that can get costly.

Posted on May 01, 2009

mattofilms
  • 110 Answers

SOURCE: I just purchased a 2440 john deere tractor it was

would say that your variable displacement pump has rust or other on/inside, it.

Are you using hydralic fluid (not eng oil) in her?
Can you let it run on blocks for a bit - drain and re-fill transmission?

Posted on Jul 02, 2009

nova2nv
  • 197 Answers

SOURCE: our john deere sabre 17.542 hs ride on mower will

If traction drive belt is turning you should check the input drive shaft on top of trans to see if it is turning as well,Traction drive belt is suspect but could be a stripped out input shaft pulley.Make sure the machine tow lever is not pulled out,rear of machine by tow hitch.Also pull rubber caps off of both axle ends to see if one the axles is turning free inside of rim,if so remove wheel and replace axle key.

Posted on Nov 15, 2009

wfservices
  • 260 Answers

SOURCE: i need to rebuild a hydraulic cylinder on a john

  1. This cylinder is not to hard to disassemble.
  2. Place upright in vise or suitable bracing.
  3. Using a block or dowel of wood(maybe rubber mallet also), depress the top cap of the cylinder to relieve tension on the ring.
  4. Use a small edged screw driver or pick and spin "retainer" in until the bent end comes to the opening.
  5. Lift up and rotate the ring more to allow the ring to pass over the edge of the opening.
  6. Once the retainer is started you can tap it with the wood and rubber mallet around the circumference of the cylinder to release the retainer from the groove.
  7. If you havent done so by now the oil should be drained.
  8. with the cylinder firm in vise(but not too firm to "distort the integrity of the cylinder.) Place the cylinder Sideways so you can pull out piston and rod assembly.*** Put hose or suitable drain on holes of cylinder***. With the motion of the piston the residual oil will tend to spray out.
  9. Pull on the piston and position it to bottom out on the top gland(cap) ie:full extension
  10. Place support under the rod to avoid damage. The gland is a tight tolerant fit with use of O-rings and backup rings. Too much offset can lead to damaging gland assembly, and jamming in the cylinder. You may be able to just hold with hand also depends on size, bore, stroke, pressure rating. Use due dilligence.
  11. Now that its out you have the piston assembly with gland in hand..**if only the rod comes out there are more steps to take, and you need a new rod but sometimes its more cost effective to buy a new cylinder. If there is a farm supplier or hydraulic dealer near they can certifiably /replace repair the cylinder for you. Hydraulic pressure is kind of like lightening. If it strikes you under pressure it can kill you.*** Using the dead blow or rubber mallet try to pop the gland out by using the piston/rod assembly as the puller. You may not have to remove the top clevice or other end of the cylinder, so maybe you could tap on that.
  12. The piston can be removed from the rod depending again on make. Usually a socket head cap screw or king nut holding it in place to the rod.
  13. When the piston is removed you should be able to slide gland off also.
  14. You'll need that pick and or the screwdriver to pick out the seals carefully. Let me know if you require more...WF Services

Posted on Apr 07, 2010

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