Question about Jenn-Air JSD2695KES Side by Side Refrigerator

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Refrigerator freezer coil is frosting up

Defrost is not working

Posted by Anonymous on

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: cooling coil in freezer compartment froze up

id say your right the unit should defrost for 30 mins of every 8 hours of compressor runnig time now that's not normal time because the thermostat cuts the unit off and on every now and then . the timer for defrost measures how long the compressor runs and it varies with how often the doors are open im sure parts of your defrost system are inoperative send me an e mail with your model number and i will help b4829@yahoo.com

Posted on May 26, 2008

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  • 464 Answers

SOURCE: Jenn Air JCD2289AEB coil in freezer compartment is

Sounds like you need to replace the adaptive defrost which is #13 in the breakdown I have in250cluded here. Part number is 61003990.

Posted on Nov 11, 2009

adnanbhatti
  • 1188 Answers

SOURCE: freezer coils frosted and refrigerator is not

The part you are referring to is the adaptive defrost assembly.

You can purchase it online here.

For a diagram depicting the part click here. Its # 13 on the top right.

Warninig: Remove the refrigerator from the mains outlet to prevent shock and use safety gloves before performing any repairs.

Before replacing the board check the defrost heater and thermostat for continuity with a multimeter to ensure they are working properly.

To test defrost thermostat set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place aprobe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading ofzero when the thermostat is cold and a reading of infinity when it iswarm (40 to 90 degrees F depending on the model). If the thermostatdoes not pass this test it should be replaced.

To test the defrost heater set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. If the reading is not between those two extremes the heating element should be replaced.

Posted on Dec 01, 2009

kvhappliance
  • 218 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer not cold enough, refrigerator not cold

Hi,
This could be the defrost timer or the defrost heater coil... The evaporator coils are located at the back of the freezer compartment. To access you will need to remove all the racks and then there is a cover held on by a few screws at the back of freezer and under it you will see the coils... Do not beat bang or scrape them... Use a hair dryer or heat gun to melt ice or you could just use hot water . Put your model #.JCB2388GTB into searspartsdirect.com and they will show parts diagrams.
If I can help with anything else please let me know.

Posted on Apr 13, 2010

hvac1960
  • 2133 Answers

SOURCE: The refrigerator and freezer are

Check compressor is running with exact current (Amps). Keep your hand on discharge line on condenser coil to feel warm. If no warm means no gas in the system. If warm and no whistling sound in freezer means system under chocked.
If no gas, find leak an arrest it. Vacuum and do gas charging. If chocked, release all gas, flush out the system, replace filter drier, vacuum and recharge gas. Helpful?

Posted on Jan 28, 2011

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I have a GE model TFX30PPDACC. It had frost in the freezer on back panel. Changed defrost timer and defrosted the coils. Lasted 10 days before enough frost built back up and refrigerator temp climbed....


thats what it will do when nothing frozen is in the freezer,you should hear the defrost heater popping if theres frost or ice melting off the evaporator coil in the rear area of the freezer its working ok

Jun 12, 2011 | Hotpoint HSS25GFP Side by Side...

2 Answers

Defrost not working heavy ice build up around coils


Hi

Frost is a natural occurrence on the evaporator coils in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator. To prevent frost buildup, a self-defrosting refrigerator warms the coils using a defrost heater several times each day to melt away the frost. This frost melts into water and flows out of the compartment through the drain. If any part of the defrost system is not working properly, the result can be heavy frost buildup that may affect the cooling capacity of the refrigerator.

The defrost timer is a mechanism that tells the defroster how long to run to melt the frost. The limit switch measures the temperature in the freezer and helps to maintain it, while the heater is the key element that melts the frost. Any one of these components could need replacement at a given time, which will result in this over-frosting.
Also check this bellow link:-

http://www.ehow.com/how_4504020_test-refrigerator-defrost-timer.html

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

Thank you for contacting fixya.com

Mar 01, 2011 | Samsung RS2530BBP (25 cu ft) Side by Side...

1 Answer

Refrigerator is cold, freezer not freezing


Amana refrig have 2 main problems . 1 is the defrost bimetal ( 1" cylinder at the top right on the freezer coils with 2 wires ) and the other is a refrigerant leak where the copper tubing joins the aluminum tubing at the freezer coils ( evaporator coils ) . If your freezer fan is not working and you have frost on the freezer coils then replace the bimetal as this also controls the defrost heater ( defrost thermostat ) . If you have no frost on the coils ( for both checks , you will have to remove the inside rear freezer panel , maybe 12 screws ) , then a refrigerant leak has happened and the best solution would be to replace the refrig .

Jul 18, 2010 | Amana 22.6 cu. ft. Side-By-Side...

1 Answer

Fridge not cool enough but frosty at the back


Since you are getting frost in you frost free refrigerator, tell me that the defrost circuit has a problem. It is made of a defrost timer/module, defrost heater and defrost thermostat. What should happen is that the defrost timer should periodically turn off the compressor for about 30 minutes and turn power to the defrost heater via the thermostat. The heater is attached to the evaporator coil and melts any frost build up on those coils.

It sounds like the defrost circuit has not been working for a while because the ice build up is not allowing the air to circulate around the coils to cool the refrigerator. The typical failures to the defrost circuit are the defrost timer motor fails to advance, or the defrost heater burns out. Hope this helps you.

Jul 14, 2010 | Kenmore 64802 Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Frost on back of freezer does not seem to be cool enough


Sounds like a defrost issue. The frost is caused because the defrost element heater is not working. Ice accumulates in the coils and blocks the air flow in to the freezer/refrigerator. GE refrigerators have an element heater behind that back panel under the evaporator coils. They are quite simple and inexpensive to replace. Use a hair dryer to defrost the coils to make the swap easier.

May 23, 2010 | GE 23.1 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator...

1 Answer

Poor cooling in the freezer compartment


Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Mar 29, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Refrgerator is not cooling


Hi there
I have some stuff for you to read hope this helps you.
Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas: Evaporator coils Condenser Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem Thank you for writing to fix ya.
Best Regards Richard

Dec 27, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer compartment has frost buildup


This can be caused by the drain hole below freezer coil being blocked by ice. You MUST remove all ice in drain under freezer coil. Use turkey baster to squirt hot water into hole and use hairdryer to defrost. Possible defrost thermostat is defective. Unit never goes into defrost, ice forms on coil and in floor of freezer. After defrosting may work OK for a week or two but gradually gets warmer because ice is blocking ports where cool air gets to refrig. May also have water in refrig box. Can also be caused by defective defrost timer.

Aug 24, 2009 | Whirlpool GS5SHAXN Side by Side...

2 Answers

Freezer Side is fine bit refrigerator side isn't cooling. Vents have been cleaned.


Pretty common problem among refrigerators. Look to see if you have frost on the rear wall of the freezer just above the lower basket. If you see frost on the rear panel, it most likely has about 3 to 4 inches full of frost on the coils behind that panel. If it does, you will have to remove the lower rear panel, and defrost the coils until they are clean, just like it was at the factory new. Once those are cleaned of frost, you should replace the defrost heater at the bottom of those coils. Some GE's have a kit that has a heater and a defrost thermostat all in one, and some do not. Some only come with just a heater replacement. If it comes only with the heater, you must also order a defrost thermostat, which is positioned above the coils, also. They both MUST be changed.

The other thing is to make sure that the fan inside of your freezer is working properly. The fan motor, and the defrost heater assembly are very common problems. Your refrigerator will work fine if you find out frost was the problem here, because the fresh food side gets its cold from the freezer side. If it is plugged with frost, the fan can't push air through the coils to the fresh food side. Hope this helps.

May 21, 2009 | GE GSH25JFR Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Frost in Freeze


Hi Frezer Frost.
It sounds like your defrost circuit in the refrigerator has gone south. This melts the ice off of the cooling coil in the freezer section every 8 - 10 hours of run time.
If you are old enough to remember the manual defrost refrigerators, that is why you had to defrost them occasionally. The ice layer on the coil acts as an insulator, preventing the coil from working properly.
Greg.

Aug 24, 2008 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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