Question about Dryers

1 Answer

Some times heat works but mostly cold. goes back and forth

Bought in 1997 When heat works it is nice and hot as should be, but for a few months it seems to be intermitent. Mostly runs cold.
Thanks,
Howard

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.

  • Master
  • 1,214 Answers

Check that the vent pipe is not totally or partially restricted as it discharges from the house

Is this a gas or electric dryer?

Please reply with specific model number and any further questions.

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Problem heating up and staying heated.


the heater has went out of it or something is keeping it from trying to get it to warm up

Feb 08, 2014 | 1997 Oldsmobile Bravada

Tip

Nice tip! I replaced my heater core about a year ago so I don't really think...


f041a09.jpgWhen dealing with a clogged heater core causing poor or no heat situation, I've had good success doing it myself, for about $25-$30 . First thing to look at is if you can get to your heater hoses, as some may be a nightmare, others are easily accessible, but the closer you can get to the heater core, where the hoses go into the firewall, the better. Many will allow you to remove the heater hoses right at the firewall which is ideal.
With engine cool, I simply remove the heater hoses (after draining down the system and making sure I don't spill antifreeze on the ground where animals can get to it, which if ingested could more than likely kill them), and attach a drill pump, and hose to one of the heater core tubes, then get an extra piece of garden hose, and attach it to the other core tube, and cut it long enough to run it back into a pail, as a return line, to recover the cleaning solution. The hose on the suction side of the drill pump also goes in to the pail. Then add 1 or 2 jugs of CLR, (calcium, lime, rust remover) available at most hardware stores, into the pail as my cleaning solution. With pressure side hose from pump attached to heater core tube, and other hose(suction) from pump inside pail to draw liquid, as well as return hose from core in pail, start up the drill pump, which can be driven with electric, or cordless drill. I circulate it through for a while, then stop and let it sit in the core to work at the calcium etc inside the core for a few minutes, longer the better. After running it through a few times that way, I reverse the hoses at the core, and run it through again, like a reverse flush, and repeat as above, letting it sit in there for a while from time to time. I will normally do this when it isn't urgent that the vehicle be used soon, and if at all possible, I will let the CLR sit in the core overnight just to give it that extra time to break things down inside that core. Then next morning, I will run it through again, and reverse hoses again, run it some more, then I'm done. Remove all hoses, re-attach heater hoses to core, and start vehicle, re-fill cooling system, with heater turned on to remove air in system, and your done. I found this quite effective as well on vehicles that tend to blow cooler air when idling, but get warmer when RPM's are increased, just due to less restriction now in heater core, allowing coolant to flow through better at idle as well as higher RPM's. I've saved $100's if not $1000's of dollars this way, not to mention a lot of aggravation trying to change the heater core. Even if it doesn't get you back to the heat you were getting when vehicle was new, if money is tight, or your just trying to make the vehicle last a little longer before your ready to replace it, this will probably get you the heat you need to get you through until it's warmer outside. If you can't get to the hoses at the firewall location, try following them back toward engine to a location that may be easier to work from. There you would want to buy a couple of "Barbed" fittings (Joiners) the proper size to enable you to cut heater hoses, attach hoses from pump, then re-attach heater hoses together when done. Be sure to get good quality fittings, and re-check for leaks after/occasionally, to be sure. Be sure to check also, that there isn't some type of valve restriction or whatever in the hose between where your planning on cutting hose and the heater core where it's attached, that will not allow flow through, as well as out on return hose. Be sure to store or dispose of cleaning solution (CLR) in a safe place. It does have other cleaning abilities, as labeled on the jug, and a simple coffee filter in a funnel, to filter out the debris from core and poured back into jugs will allow you to re-use it elsewhere, but if you do, please remember it has been contaminated with antifreeze, and if re-used for cleaning or whatever, make sure it's not an application where it may be ingested by animals, or humans. Best bet for safety sake, is to dispose of it properly to avoid that risk. Good luck to all who try it, and please keep me/us informed of results.

on Apr 04, 2010 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Why dose the heat blow hot and cold air at the same time when the setings are on hot


if heat blows hot then cold back and forth check coolant level.if level good replace thermostat

Feb 11, 2011 | 1996 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

Just replaced my thermostat on 2004 Impala. Temperature guage goes from cold to hot then goes back down. Heat seems to work when the temperature guage is lower but as soon as it goes up the heat turns...


i going to assume you have the 3.4L or 3.8 L motor
these motors are notorious for trapping air in coolant system
which sounds like what your problem is
not a problem tho they have bleeder screw built into them
there should be one or two bleeders (depending on model year and motor size)
i think yours should have two
one should be on top of thermostat housing
other one right above water pump on bypass tube
open one bleeder at time with motor running until u see just water and no air
repeat with other bleeder
continue to work back and forth between the two bleeders until thermostat opens
then work back and forth a couple times after thermostat opens
keep checking radiator add coolant as needed

Dec 28, 2010 | 2004 Chevrolet Impala

2 Answers

Runs on a/c all the time no heat


this problem is caused by a failed air temperture control blend door actuater motor, this little device moves the door inside the ducting back and forth to give hot warn or cold air, the most oftern stick in the cold air position.

Oct 15, 2009 | 1997 Ford Explorer AWD

1 Answer

CHRYSLER TOWN & COUNTRY 2003 HEATER PROBLEM


Have you checked the coolant level? If it's low, it will result in diminished heat, and could be the problem.

Mar 20, 2009 | 2003 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

Ford Windstar SE, 3.8L V6, 1999, front seat heat/defrost is cold


the blendor actuators strip out the gear inside the actuator cases on these all the time. replace the actuator.

Mar 10, 2009 | 1997 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

What could cause the heating to pack up in my 98 corolla?


Try it again today, if no heat, move back & forth from cold to hot, and bang with hand, under dash on passenger side where heater duct work is and wait a few seconds. Blend/air door may be stuck.

Jan 25, 2009 | 1998 Toyota Corolla

Not finding what you are looking for?
Dryers Logo

Related Topics:

38 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Dryers Experts

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8205 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

67912 Answers

Brad Brown

Level 3 Expert

14745 Answers

Are you a Dryer Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...