Question about Kenmore Top-Load Washing Machine 3.4 Cubic Foot
It was in the middle of a cycle, stopped and then went to sensing and lidlock and didnt drain. It is the model 2125 110.21252110
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This problem is commonly attributed to a lid switch malfunction. I will need a more accurate model number to confirm (located under the washer lid along the tub rim). "110" is only the beginning prefix of the model number, which identifies the manufacturer. I will need the remaining numbers to determine how the washer is configured.
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.
A replacement lid switch can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, repairclinic.com or appliancepartspros.com. All three sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all three for the best price. For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, you can refer to my profile and look under my "Tips and Tricks" for links for Replacing a Lid Switch. If you still need assistance, please contact me and let me know. PS If the lid switch IS defective and you need instructions on how to by-pass it in order to drain the wash tub, let me know. In addition, if my diagnosis is not correct, please post back and elaborate a bit more so I can assist you further.
Posted on Feb 26, 2009
You don't open the rear panel. This is a typical symptom of a lid switch problem. The link below will explain how to access it. If you open and close the lid, you should hear a "clicking" sound as the lid switch is activated. If you do not hear the switch, check to make sure the lid strike in still intact. This is a small plastic piece mounted on the lid that pushes down on the switch through a slot on the wash tub opening on the right hand side. If this piece breaks off, it will give the same symptoms of a broken lid switch. Next, check the two mounting screws on the right side of the wash tub opening to make sure they are tight. These are the mounting screws for the lid switch. Sometimes they come loose and the switch does not make proper contact. If you attempt all these preliminaries, and the switch still does not seem to be working properly, replace it. A replacement can be found at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and the part will be located under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (Part number 3949238). For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, click on the following link:
I hope this helps you. If you have questions, please let me know.
Posted on Aug 07, 2008
When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
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