Question about Nikon D200 Body Only Digital Camera

1 Answer

Camera will not fire when the built in flash is raised.

The built in flash is not firing. The exposure +- blinks when the flash is raised and the camera will focus but will not fire

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  • Expert
  • 321 Answers

Replace bulb. if u r using external flash plz use ineternal flash also some time to keep it safe

Posted on Jan 11, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Built in Flash

I have the same problem on my D50. I found this forum, which sounds like it may fix that problem. I am going to try it out. http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1034&message=22761542

Posted on Apr 12, 2007

cammedic
  • 667 Answers

SOURCE: nikon D70 flash doenot fire

According to my information, the camera may need a new flash PCB (printed circuit board). Check the repair service search on this site for someone in your area. The part number for the circuit board is: 1S014-020-1 and runs about 50$

Posted on Jan 10, 2008

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: nikon d40 built in flash not firing but it popped up

there is a sensor in there that tells the camera the flash is up you need to take it to a repair shop its not a at home thing

Posted on Mar 20, 2009

fotomohamed
  • 321 Answers

SOURCE: when I press shutter release button, it fails to shoot.

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Posted on Jun 18, 2009

fikretunalir
  • 238 Answers

SOURCE: Nikon D3000. Exposure lock with focus problem.

Probably your lens causes this I think. Please check these.

1. Your lens may cause this. Change it and try again.If you do not have another lens then go on to check the next instrutions.
2. Check your lens AF button. It should be switched to AF.
3. Turn off and on the camera and try again.
4. Check your battery charging.
5. Your lens should be cleaned complitely. Please check its clearity.

I think it will work. But if it does not work properly again then your camera should be checked.

Clean your camera mirror. For this:
1. Turn off your camera.
2. Remove your lens.
3. Clean your mirror without using water or any other liquid or any other chemicals. Use only special cleaning liquid that is made for lens cleaning.
4. If it does not work then your camera body should be checked electronically and mechanically. This check can only be done with an authorized service tecnician. So you should send your camera to your service dealer.

Posted on May 03, 2010

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1 Answer

Flash fires irregularly... good exposures, then suddenly 3 way under exposed/black then a good exposure, the a completely burnt out over-exposed shot! Completely irregular.


If you are referring to the internal flash I would say you are firing the camera faster then the flash can cycle. There is a green lightning bolt that will come on in the viewfinder when the flash has charged. If you fire the first one it may be a charged flash then again you may have popped the flash composed and tripped the shutter before the flash has had a chance to fully charge. You fire again depleting the charge some more and before it has a chance to recover you fire it again so the flash never has a chance to fully charge. You need to wait till the flash ready light come on in the viewfinder.

Dec 18, 2010 | Nikon D70s Digital Camera

1 Answer

Pentax K110d flash trigger problem, I have 2 flash trigger strobes set up and a flash on the hot shoe of the camera, but with shutter release the trigger strobe lights fire but do not show in the pic, only...


Your camera uses a PTTL flash system. That means the flash on the camera fires a "pre-flash" to set the exposure and then the main flash. Your flash trigger strobes are reacting to the pre-flash and firing before the shutter activates. This all happens in a millisecond.

Oct 25, 2010 | Pentax K110D Digital Camera

1 Answer

I am using a Nikon D200. When using flash I can't raise the shutter speed any higher than 1/250. It seems to be locked there and I don't know how unlock it. Please help.


That's entirely correct. 1/250th is the fastest shutter speed you can use when using flash. Many other cameras can still only use 1/60th or 1/125. It's all to do with the two curtain nature of an SLR shutter: when you release the shutter, one curtain withdraws across the frame to expose and then a second one follows behind to shut off the light source. For exposures of 1/250 or slower on your camera, the second curtain does not start to travel across until the first one has fully opened, so you have a fully open exposure frame allowing the flash to reach every part of the sensor. At faster speeds, the second curtain sets off before the first one has finished and at the highest speeds it's so close behind the first that only a narrow **** is open to the incoming light as the shutter curtains pass across the sensor. If you fire the flash at these speeds the shadow of the first or second (or both) curtains will appear on the sensor and the picture will look like a narrow horizontal band, or if using fill in flash, it will look like a bright band across the picture.

It's immaterial though as the normal exposure rules don't apply with flash: the flash duration is typically anywhere from 1/4000th to 1/50000th and in that exposure time it outputs sufficient light onto the subject to enable a photo to be captured. As the flash is the dominant light source, the ambient light captured when the shutter is open for 1/250th is insignificant unless you're making a daylight exposure and using the flash for fill in purposes.

There are some specialist SLR and flash combos which will allow the full range of shutter speeds, but they do so by firing the flash multiple times very rapidly to ensure that there is flash light present effectively continuously as the narrow exposure **** passes across the sensor.

Compact cameras have shutters which work differently and which fully expose the sensor at all shutter speeds, so in that respect they can have a far more flexible flash exposure system. Unfortunately, they ruin it by having pathetically weak built-in flashes which are only good for very short distances.

Sep 03, 2010 | Nikon Cameras

1 Answer

Ttl auto does not work


Digital Camera Fully Compatible, Newly Developed S-TTL System "S-TTL" enables TTL auto shooting by an external strobe for a digital SLR camera as well as for a point & shoot digital camera.
INON S-TTL auto strobe supports any manufactures' model providing highly accurate exposure control.
Film camera era without strobe selection problem TTL stands for "Through The Lens" and TTL auto strobe system controls flash amount to provide correct exposure based on calculation by camera's internal sensor metering reflecting strobe light from a subject through the lens. This TTL system meters actual light amount reflecting from a subject providing accurate exposure.
When we start with the history of underwater TTL auto strobe, underwater camera?"NIKONOS V" released in 1984 was the first to provide automatic TTL flash control for underwater strobe SB-102, SB-103 succeeded by NIKONOS V compatible underwater strobes form other manufactures. The 5 pin electrical sync connector for NIKONOS V is most popular and widely adopted to connect an underwater strobe and underwater film camera (underwater camera/housing).
A film SLR camera has flexibility to select an underwater strobe. As far as housing has NIKONOS type electrical sync connector and properly wired, automatic TTL flash control is usable with any TTL auto strobe like Nikon SB-105, INON Z-220, Z-22 connected via electrical sync cable.
NIKONOS type 5 pin electrical sync connector and NIKONOS V with INON Z-22 strobe
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Film camera compatible strobe is not usable for a digital camera!? Underwater TTL strobe circumstances have been drastically altered with the spread of digital camera among divers. Some underwater housing for digital SLR camera has NIKONOS type electrical 5 pin sync connector as same as film camera housing. Since the housing has same NIKONOS type sync connector, existing film camera compatible underwater strobe has been considered compatible with a digital SLR camera via 5 pin sync cable but happened to experience error message on the digital camera or blackout on an image even the strobe worked. Why this happened?
This is because automatic TTL strobe system difference between a film camera and a digital camera.

The film TTL auto system makes single flash while digital TTL auto system employs pre-flash type making two to three flashes. Film TTL auto strobe system starts firing at the same time the shutter opens and reflecting strobe light from a subject is recived at a film. The reflecting light on the film is metered by the sensor to determine when to cease firing for correct exposure. This process takes only about 1/1000 second.
In contrast, digital TTL auto strobe system can not calculate adequate exposure based on reflecting light from a subject since image sensor (CCD/CMOS) reflectivity is comparably low comparing to a film. So digital TTL strobe system gives preliminary flash for very short period of time (pre-flash) just before the shutter opens metering reflecting light from a subject by the sensor to calculate necessary amount of light for correct exposure and starts emitting main flash at the same time the shutter opens. Canon E-TTL and Nikon i-TTL employs this system.

When we connect conventional film camera compatible TTL strobe to pre-flash type digital SLR via sync cable, the strobe makes full dump by pre-flash signal then the shutter opens before the strobe has been fully charged resulting in quite under exposed image only with ambient light. Even two time flash compatible strobe like INON Z-220 strobe, does not fully support a digital TTL and force to use Manual flash mode.





Film SLR:
A strobe starts firing at the same time the shutter opens and quenches firing when correct exposure has been obtained.
A film compatible TTL strobe connected to a pre-flash type digital SLR via electrical cable flashes does not support TTL auto exposure resulting in synchronization only with first pre-flash or totally uncontrollable.
white1px.jpg
The birth of digital fully compatible S-TTL S-TTL auto compatible INON D-2000 strobe and Z-240 strobe works in TTL auto mode by simply setting their main dial to S-TTL position. A film camera seems to depend more on photographer's skill, experience and feel since the camera does not allow checking images on site. A digital camera allows us to check images right after shooting and enable to try to shoot again as much as we like. And high capacity memory card further allows to shoot hundreds of images. The digital camera makes entry level of underwater photography getting down and nowadays more people buy a digital SLR camera and underwater housing even they have just started underwater photography. However underwater photography gets more difficult because underwater strobe does not work in TTL auto.
INON is among the first to support digital TTL auto system with "S-TTL" auto mode equipped D-2000 strobe and Z-240 strobe.
The proper name of S-TTL is "Optical Synch TTL". S-TTL enables to perform in TTL auto exposure as same as genuine TTL strobe from camera manufacture, based on camera's built-in flash light to use as a signal to be transmitted to a strobe. S-TTL uses digital camera's built-in flash light not as a light source but as like a controller to trigger S-TTL strobe.
The built-in flash of a digital camera makes weak flash (pre-flash) before main-flash to calculate exposure. This pre-flash is transmitted to S-TTL strobe to control the strobe to make pre-flash to a subject. The reflecting light from the subject goes through the camera's master lens to an image sensor then a processor calculates main flash light amount for correct exposure.?Finally the built-in flash makes main-flash which is transmitted to the S-TTL strobe to cause main-flash of the S-TTL strobe.


Digital camera's built-in flash lights are transmitted via an optical fiber to the
S-TTL strobe to make pre-flash and main-flash instead of the built-in flash.
white1px.jpg

Apr 30, 2010 | Olympus FL-20 TTL Flash

1 Answer

Reverting to ttl - master flash not firing


Hi Kate,

What camera that you are having problem with those flashes?
Will switching the two have the same problems.
Make sure it is fully pushed forward into hotshoe & locked:-)

Try shooting second current, this will save you the repair costs.

Your exposure compensation was set to zero, but was your flash compensation set at zero?

atdlee@netzero.com

Jan 04, 2010 | Canon Speedlite 580EX II TTL Flash

1 Answer

The built in speedlight on my D 70S is not synching. Seems like the flash goes off before the shutter opens.My pictues all comes out dark no matter what I try. Can you help me?


I fixed this same problem with my D70s today, after twelve months of getting dark pictures despite the flash firing. It started syncing properly after I performed the following, though I'm not sure why as I was just mucking around.
- Set Program to P. - Push button to activate built-in flash. - Push, and keep depressed same button, which will put you in Flash Exposure Compensation mode. - My Flash Exposure Compensation was on +0.3 so I set it to 0.0 by turning the front wheel. Seemed to fix it.

Sep 23, 2009 | Nikon D70s Digital Camera

1 Answer

Flash exposure does not work in Av and Tv mode


There is nothing wrong here - the camera computes the exposure as the flash is not firing. The flash will fire and it will adapt the power to the received light. You must go into M ot AV, fix your parameters and shoot. The flash will adapt to your whishes - only take care to not choose a shooting time to small (1/200 or 1/60 - you have settings for it).

This is not a bug, but a feature.

Aug 09, 2008 | Canon EOS 40D Digital Camera

1 Answer

Fire a vivitar283 flash at the END of an exposure with the Olympus C-770


You need to set the camera for second-curtain flash

First curtain = fires when the shutter opens.
Second curtain = fires when the shutter closes.

Oct 19, 2007 | Olympus Camedia C-770 Digital Camera

2 Answers

PROBLEM: F828 & external flash


I think this is due to the TLL preflash of the 828 internal flash. Each time it actually fires 2 flashes. First one for metering and second one for actual exposure. First "fake" flash probably trigers your external flash which is too early. Slution... hmm i think there are afordable slave adapters out there which detect the TTL preflash, ignore it and fire the external flash on the right timing along with the main flash. cost.. about few tens $ i think. they can detect also infrared light so you can mount IR filter on your internal flash to prevent interfering with the exposure...

Sep 12, 2005 | Sony Cyber-Shot DSC-F828 Digital Camera

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