Question about Frigidaire Dishwashers
RESET CIRCUIT BREAKER SEVERAL TIMES. WASH STOPS MIDWAY PROVIDING ER CODE FLASHING ALONG WITH SEVERAL TOUCH PAD SELECTIONS.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Yes this can be a touch pad failure that may need to be replace again , because with this type of device usually the touch pad is easy to get bad...
Posted on Aug 19, 2008
SOURCE: Error flashing and won't reset.
PF stands for power failure. the first you should do is check your house breaker and make sure that you did not trip the fuse.
Does anything run? Can you hear the motor running? If not, you have no power coming into the machine. In this case it's the main control board that needs to be replaced.
If the motor hums, it means you have power to the d/w, in that case you need to replace the touchpad.
Posted on Oct 02, 2008
This is very likely due to a bad main electronic control board but the only way to know for sure is to do some electrical testing with a volt/ohm meter and the wiring diagram located within the appliance. If possible use the meter and the wiring diagram to check input/output voltages looking for discrepancies between the diagram and the actual meter readings.
Go here for Frigidaire Dishwasher Parts: http://www.repairclinic.com/Frigidaire-Dishwasher-Parts
Posted on Feb 03, 2009
SOURCE: Touchpad--No Response
See the notes about cycles taking forever. The relay that controls the heating element commonly gets warm enough to melt the solder around the connection, and the internal water heater stops heating. The "2H" indicates how much time the onboard computer thinks it will take to wash the load, based on previous loads, but if the last cycle was longer than 99 minutes, it shows 2 Hours. Repairing the controller board (or replacing it) should solve the problem. This is such a common problem, Bosch should have had a recall, but didn't.
Posted on Aug 05, 2009
This was posted in another maytag qs300 thread there are 2 ways to fix the front panels on these dishwashers. My advice fix it as cheaply as possible and
save some cash to get a better dish washer because these
newer maytags are just plain awfull.
Quick fix for dishwasher from hell.
What I found was to turn off the breaker to the dishwasher, unscrew the inside panel ( about 12 Torx screws ), remove the black cover on the computer ( 1 hex head screw ) remove the ribbon cable coming from the front panel by easing down the plastic locking tab, then take a soft clean cloth and gently wipe the end of the ribbon cable (both sides) and reinstall. This keeps our machine working for another couple of month, when I go thru the same exercise again. I think it is condensation that makes the ribbon cable connection bad or short across two of the lands.
Permanent fix for dishwasher from hell.
The flex cable shown in the pictures above was bad on my unit also. It looks to me like they are pulling too much current through this cable to run all the LED's on the front panel. Mine died the instant death so I removed the touch pad and traced out the wiring.
The start/cancel switch is a connection between pin 6 and pin 10 on the ribbon cable. There is a 10K resistor in series with the switch to limit the current.
I tried to order the part from my local parts house and was told it was a special order only and would take about 4 weeks to get. Later I found you could purchase it off the internet and not have to wait quite as long. Since the replacement part is the full plastic piece across the top of the door I decided to try a mod. The touch panel is just glued to the plastic piece so I removed it completely. That leaves some glue that will need to be cleaned up but I can do that later.
I found a C&K momentary push button switch that fit in a 1/4 inch hole. I drilled the front panel in the center to accept the switch. If you moved it to one side it might not conflict with the latch switches quite as much but I made it fit.
I then looked in my junk box and found two pieces of 18 gauge wire and one 10K resistor. I put the resistor on the normally open pin on the switch and then connected a wire to that. The other wire went to the common pin on the switch.
When you look at the control board the pins are labeled as 2 on one end and 18 on the other. You only see every other pin as there is another row that is buried. You need pins 6 and 10 so they are on the visible row. Use a small soldering iron and connect the two wires up to those pins. It does not matter which one goes where.
Put it all back together and push the button. You do not have all the flashing lights or options but I am now washing my first load of dishes in several weeks.
These are copied word for word from the other maytag thread found here
Posted on Mar 26, 2010
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