Question about Refrigerators
I have a Kenmore model 596-691-42990 and I have diagnosed that the defrost thermostat is bad. I defrosted the coils with a hair dryer and started it up again pending arrival of parts. I did this once before and the unit ran fine for about a month.
The problem now is that it will only cool to about 40 at max setting of 7 and before it cooled to 35 at setting of 5 1/2 after defrosting and I am wondering if there is another problem that needs to be addressed and want to get all the parts at once.
I am going to get a new thermostat and even though I think the timer is good I am getting one of those too..
Another thing is that when I defrosted the unit I had water on the floor and it did not do that before. Is there a drain or something I cannot see?.....Or is there a tank/pan or something for the evaporator.
I also wonder if this is the cooling problem?...Maybe the evaporator had water in it from defrosting and it froze on restarting not allowing the fridge to cool as low as before?
I have laminated hardwood flooring and I would like to make sure when I defrost it to replace the parts I do not get water under the fridge again.
Thanks in advance
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Refrigerator trips GFI outlet
unlikely to be the defrost timer. more likely to be the defrost element. try disconnecting the element and see if it trips then. could be of course a wiring fault - frayed wires etc
Posted on Jun 19, 2007
problem could be door seals not sealing completely and hence excessive ice formed on evaporator and excess water when it melts. however, i have found this problem many times with large larder fridges and really found no cure.
towards the bottom of the back wall, there is a gulley with a drain hole in the middle. this drain is blocked. clear it with something flexible and make sure water flows away freely
Posted on Sep 07, 2008
Either there is a refrigerant leakage or if it is a no frost refrigerator air ducts to the refrigerator is closed due to frosting. Switch off the refrigerator for 3 hours and restart again.
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
Most likely , the problem is a bad defrost heater , pt # WR51X10055 , but I would still suggest going thru the motions to make sure . The heater runs about $45.00 .
Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10055 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off due to selected temperature
Posted on Oct 05, 2010
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