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Raise the machine up in the air using 2x4s. I use short pieces about 10 inches long under the legs. start by tipping the machine to the side and put one under the front leg. The sides can be sharp so use gloves. don't lift on the machine just tip it to the side and then have a helper stick the 2x4 under the leg. I have used a stout piece of 1 inch as a lever to lift the sides up. put the one inch under the edge of the machine only about 2 inches in. then use a short 2x4 as a fulcrum set it under the one inch wood close to the machine. push down on the other end and it lifts the machine up . put 2x4s under each leg. (4 legs). now get out a bright light and look under the machine. can you see a drip? if so note where the drip is comming from so you will no what part you need to fix. To get under the machine to fix the leak you need to tip it way over. Unplug the machine from the wall (for safety) then tip it over to the left or right. if you don't have room to tip it over you will need to make room or move the machine to where it has room. Be careful not to bump the water connections agains the wall as they are plastic and can break. once you can see underneath you should see white water residue where the leak has been comming from. Plastic can be glued or replaced and loose hoses can be tighten up. Use what ever it takes I like pulmbers goop and duct tape. if it still leakes you need to do more but it should be fixable unless there is a crack in the metal housing.
I assume this is an electric skillet. Try gluing it back together with metal-filled epoxy (J-B Weld) - it has good thermal stability and has a good chance of adhering to the plastic used for these handles.
It sounds like your drum support, and/or balance mechanism inside the washing machine has broken. You will need to open your Washing machine and inspect the Drum Support, and the balance mechanism. Hook it back up or replace it if it is broken.
Maytag uses an auto balancing mechanism, based on the rear legs. These legs should move freely. Lay the machine on its side, and try to move the rear legs. If they won't move and appear rusty, then spray penetrating oil on both legs and move them until they move freely.
The small metal box is the tuner. The tuner has to be removed to replace the broken off RF connector. The connector has to be soldered to the tuner housing (metal box) and the leg of the connector has to be soldered to the circuit board, board has to be checked for cracks or if it is broken. If board is damaged the tuner will have to be replaced, if its available.
you more than likely have a broken tripod leg on the metal basket inside, when it goes into the spin cycle the basket become un balanced and is rubbing on the inside of the front outer tub which is the sandy grey stuff you are seeing.
if its less than 10 years old it should be in warranty and you can have a whirlpool repairman fix it, you would just be reponsible for the labor, which will cost around 300
if you decide to fix it yourself, first take off the bottm panel on the front of the washer, and clean out the drain pump. (i found the cause of my problem in there, and to get the rest of the plastic shavings out. 2screws came off one of the legs of the tripod of the metal basket on mine). next you will want to take it apart, so that you can see the back side of the metal basket, (i suggest taking the shocks off the front and back of the tub asselmbly before as soon as you can get to them, they can break pretty easy.) one of the legs you will find ir broken, corroded, or missing screws.
if you have to replace any parts, the front outer tub is about 100, metal basket is 200, and shocks are 15 a piece at appliancezone.com
Power off the wall mains. Open up the machine panel to look interiors. See if any springs or shocks (known as dampers) have broken or come off. The dampers should not slide in & out freely, if they're defective, replace. Tighten all loose wires, which may have come loose, future probs, so you dont have to open up again.
Next level your machine, front legs way up, means your machine is tilting towards you. Then adjust accordingly so that u cannot shake the machine with both your hands. Lock the nuts, only the fronts legs are adjustable, for most machines. (will get back to u)
You are on the right track, the back legs are self leveling ( or supposed to be ). The problem is going to be on the RIGHT side, it is jammed or possibly rusted/corroded or maybe somehow it got turned slightly and is not in the track properly, it should be moving like the left side.
On the velbon vgb 3, the leg locks consist of a lever, one or two pieces of metal and a plastic piece. The metal and plastic pieces rest in a depression against the lever. When the lever is pulled out, pressure against the smaller leg section is released. When the lever is pushed in, pressure against the smaller leg section is exerted, locking the legs in place. On the back side of each joint, there is a phillips head screw which acts as a stop to keep the leg section from coming all the way out. When the screw is backed out, the leg section can be removed, exposing the latching mechanism. If the only problem is that the latch mechanism came apart, it can simply be reassembled. If, however, something broke and allowed the latch assemby to come apart, that will have to be dealt with as well. My guess is that the phillips screw may have become loose, and the latch came apart.