Question about Refrigerators
This is a used fridge which was supposed to be working fully OK but was mistakenly laid flat during transportation and would not run when switched on afterwards. However, it did start working again after being left standing fully upright for several days. Due to events it was left uninstalled and switched off for several months and, just prior to installing, have discovered it is now not working properly. If left in upright position it now doesn't run (doesn't cool and compressor not running). If stood leaning forward by about 30 degrees from vertical it starts running OK and cools OK but stops when placed fully upright again. A second query is how can I remove the thermostat knob and cover ? Although not likely to be the cause of above problem I thought to check it out anyway but there are no obvious screw fixings so cannot open and access and do not want to risk forcing and breaking anything. Your advice re both problems will be much appreciated.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
if the motor runs it cant be the thermostat then it is low gas inside the system and it must be cold after 30min
Posted on May 22, 2009
SOURCE: refrigerator not cooling
You model if the ARB1950C has a defrost timer inside the fresh food compartment and behind the temperature control panel. Need to see if you can manualy turn the timer clockwise until the compressor stops. During that time of 25 minutes the freezer should be in defrost. I believe your timer needs replaced based on how you explained what is happening. The part number for your timer is 67001036 and can be found at the links below. If it stays longer that 25 minutes then it's sticking in the defrost section of the defrost timer and will need to be replaced. If your refrigerator does not restart after about 25 minutes then slowly turn the timer through the opening in the plastic cover. There may be a plug covering the hole to make the hole not so visible. If you should have problems fell free to let me know, Thanks Sea Breeze
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
Hello, Unfortunately the compressor likely is seized now. There are a couple of reasons that the original start device failed, 1) faulty connection. 2) poor quality part. 3) compressor was running non-stop due to other deficiencies in the unit or 4) the compressor was failing to begin with. The compressor may indeed check out ok as far as electrically ( windings ) but the mechanical component ( rotor ) has locked/seized up. You can determine whether it is the windings by checking the ohm value between common to start, common to run and run to start ( c-s, c-r, r-s ) and look for values similar to 6ohms, 3ohms, & 9ohms. Then check the start and run & common windings against the compressor casing to see if windings are shorted. In order to double check the mechanical component you'd need another hard start, ( or a test cord direct to 120vac, but that should only be done by an experienced tech ). nothing else will start it at this point obviously or you wouldn't be using a hard start already. The other unfortunate issue is this, many of these compressor's have a 10yr. parts only warranty but that was voided as soon as the 3in1 hard start was installed. In the end I'm likely not telling you anything you didn't already suspect or know in fact, but it is likely the compressor. I sympathsize, seized compressors **** ! Hope this answers your question and moves you forward. good luck macmarkus :)
Posted on May 08, 2010
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