Question about HP COMPAQ DC5850 SFF ATH/5000 2GB80GB COMBO WVXP PC Desktop

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Problem with COMPAQ DC5850 SFF ATH/5000 2GB80GB COMBO WVXP PC Desktop hp compaq dc5850 pc won't turn on after plugging in old hard drive for transfer Posted by Author imageGuest on 1/4/2013

Problem with COMPAQ DC5850 SFF ATH/5000 2GB80GB COMBO WVXP PC Desktop hp compaq dc5850 pc won't turn on after plugging in old hard drive for transfer Details I unplugged my hard drive (internal) and connected and old one to transfer some music. Now I cannot remember where the p2 connector goes! I took it to a computer shop and he didnt plug in the p2 plug so maybe I don't need it? I had disconnected and reconnected my hard drive before but now it won't start. Would that be because I don't have the p2 cord in? The cord colours are yellow, orange, and 2 black with a white end. It seems odd that I have been able to transfer over hard drives before (quite a few times) without issue, and now it's not working.

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  • HP Master
  • 5,660 Answers

The h3ll you say.

(Kidding around)

Let me see if I understand this straight;

You unplugged THE harddrive to your computer..............

Then you plugged an old harddrive in, and expected to be able to use it.

Expected to because you've done it in the past.

Really

Curious;
1) Was it an old harddrive you had in the computer, removed it; and had a larger one installed?

2) Is it one that you have had in another computer?

Here's what I know, and why I'm asking;

When Windows is installed on a computer it assigns hash values, to certain major hardware components.
For example;

A) Processor
B) Motherboard: To include the motherboard chipset, and BIOS program. (To include version and date)
C) Harddrive
D) Graphics chipset

Change any two of these hardware components, and Windows will think it is being stolen. Put on another computer.

Microsoft User's License states, "One GENUINE copy of Windows per ONE computer"

(Microsoft makes one Master disk, and from it all GENUINE copies are made, and sold to the consumer)

Now if you stated you installed the old harddrive as a Slave drive; then I could understand.

P2 connector?
That is a Power Supply power cable.

According to specifications the Harddrive is a SATA unit.

http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/ca/en/sm/WF06b/12454-12454-64287-3328896-3328896-3658105-3687950.html?dnr=1

Internal Drives - Hard disk controller -SATA 3.0Gb/s NCQ SMART IV

The power cable to it is a SATA power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#sata

Probably what your P2, and P3 power cables are.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-DC5850-SFF-Motherboard-SPS-461537-001-/310417711958?pt=Motherboards&hash=item4846566356

P1 will be a 24-pin ATX main power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

P4 cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

P5 cable, MAYBE, (Might be P3 too)

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#peripheral

And P6 power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#floppy

This type of power cable is also used on a Card Reader.

To conclude;

A) SATA harddrive has to have a SATA power cable, and SATA data cable.

The SATA power cable's connector is wider, than the SATA data cable's connector.
15-pins for the SATA power cable connector; 7-pins for the SATA data cable's connector,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:SATA_ports.jpg

The above is a general example of a SATA data cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard.

Your SATA data cable connectors on the motherboard, are of a different style than the above.

You have Four SATA connectors on the motherboard;
1) Light Blue
2) Orange
3) Dark Blue
4) White

Regards,
joecoolvette

Posted on Jan 04, 2013

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i prety sure there is no way to do that. you might be better off just going to fries or radio shack or some other electronics store and buying a new one, there is no way to change a 20 pin to a 24 pin srry the best pf luck to you. plus i trying to fix my own problem right now

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Posted on Aug 28, 2009

joecoolvette
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SOURCE: HP Compaq d530 SFF PC

No Ben, there is no jumper for this on the motherboard.

The method is to go into BIOS Setup, and change it to AGP.
(Should be the default factory setting however, IF you have an AGP graphics card installed)

For your computer, BIOS Setup is referred to as
Computer Setup Utilities. It is accessed by pressing the F10 key at a certain time.

1) Computer off. Turn the computer on. As SOON as the monitor light turns green, start tapping the F10 key. (Tap in 2 second intervals)

If you do not press the F10 key in time, the computer will go on to load Windows. Shut the computer down normally. Try again.

When you are in Computer Setup, select your language, press the Enter key.
(Use the appropriate arrow key to select. You cannot use your mouse anymore when in Computer Setup)

You will see Four headings.
File, Storage, Security, and Advanced.
Use the Left or Right arrow key to select Advanced
Press the Enter key.

In the menu headings select PCI VGA Configuration .
(Use the appropriate arrow key)
Press the Enter key.

It will only display if you have an AGP graphics card installed. (Multiple PCI video adapters)

It will not display if you only have Integrated Graphics, and no AGP graphics card.
(Integrated Graphics is also referred to as Onboard.
ON-Board. Meaning ON the motherBoard)

Use the appropriate arrow key to highlight AGP. Press the Enter key.
Press the F10 key. (Save changes)

Now things may differ.
Some BIOS Setup utilities, (Computer Setup Utility for your computer), have two different methods for selecting YES.

You may see a Y/N, or a YES/NO

Use the appropriate arrow key, and highlight YES, if it shows a YES/NO

Press the y key if it shows a Y/N.
(It is Not a capital Y. The capital Y is shown for clarity. Press the lower case y on your keyboard)

Now press the Enter key.

Your computer will now restart with the changes you have made.

NOTE*
If by some chance your computer did not come with an AGP graphics card, and you are installing one, you MUST load the drivers for the graphics card.

Drivers are small software 'pieces', that allow the computer to 'communicate' with the device.

Drivers come on a CD disk provided with the graphic card. The drivers SHOULD be installed BEFORE the graphics card is installed.

Why?
Because as soon as a new device is installed, and the computer is turned on, Windows breaks it's neck to find appropriate drivers.

IF THE drivers are not already installed, Windows will chose from it's thousands of generic drivers, and match one accordingly.

If you install the drivers AFTER you have installed the graphics card, you will get a driver Conflict.

Crude illustration:
Windows: 'Which drivers do I use? These or THESE?'

Your graphics will look like something for the Flintstones.
If you do not have the driver installation CD disk, you will need to download the drivers from HP Support,
IF they are available.

If your computer Came with a Restoration Disk, AND your computer has an AGP graphics card, the drivers are on that disk.

The disk is installed in your optical drive, and when asked you chose REPAIR. (Or non-destructive installation)

Should you need more information, or want me to look to see if graphics drivers are available, post in a Comment.



Posted on Jan 15, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks for the prompt replies and ideas"

joecoolvette
  • 5660 Answers

SOURCE: Compaq Presario SR1620NX Desktop won't turn on

I may state too detailed, and over simplify in my solution.
This is not to insult your intelligence, but an endeavor to explain thoroughly.

To bypass the Power On switch, one uses a jumper wire to jump the Soft Power On wire, to ANY Ground wire.

The Soft Power On wire has Green insulation, and is located in the 24-pin ATX main power cable.
ANY wire that has Black insulation is a Ground wire.

To explain:

This is HP Support, and the Motherboard Specifications page, for the Compaq Presario SR1610NX desktop computer,

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00378480&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&lang=en&product=1127350

I would like you to scroll down the page, until you come to the motherboard illustration.
(Under the - Motherboard layout and photos - heading)

This illustration represents the motherboard from a top view, and with no hardware components installed.
(No Processor, Ram Memory modules, power cables from Power Supply plugged in, and so on)

At the top right of the motherboard is a small rectangle, with an inscription in it.
(The tiny printing reads - SMSC with LPC47M997NR under it)

Immediately below this small rectangle, is the 24-pin ATX main power cable connector.
Two vertical rows of 12 socket holes.
(Next to it is printed - ATX 1)

Now here is a much better view of a 24-pin ATX main power cable, and the corresponding connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

The photo to the far left, shows a better view of the 24-pin ATX main power cable connector, on the motherboard.
(Yours may be an opaque whitish plastic. It also will not be located on the outside edge of the motherboard)

The photo in the middle, shows the 24-pin ATX main power cable not plugged in.

The photo all the way to the right, shows the 24-pin ATX main power cable plugged in, and shows the Green Soft Power On wire.
Also shows the Black ground wires.

The 24-pin ATX main power cable is left plugged into the motherboard.

Looking at the middle photo once more, note how the power wires come into the connector.
This is the Back of the connector.

Each wire ends in a metal terminal.
The metal terminal is approximately 1/2 inch in length.
This means the power wire goes down in the connector pretty deep, before it ends in the metal terminal at the Front of the connector.

I use a wire that is approximately the same size, (Gauge), as the power wires, for the jumper wire.
Strip around 1/2 inch of insulation, from each end of the jumper wire, then twist the wire ends.

The jumper wire should be around 3 inches in length, and bent into a U-shape.

Power supply unplugged from power, insert one end of the jumper wire into the socket hole that contains the Green wire.
(Soft Power On wire)

The jumper wire end is stuffed down into the socket hole with the Green wire, right next to the Green wire. You are pushing the bare stripped end past the insulation of the Green wire, with the intent of touching the metal terminal end.

Insure that the stripped bare wire, is touching the metal terminal end, as best as you can.
The stripped end may have to be longer than 1/2 inch.

(An alternate form of jumper wire is a paper clip straightened out, then bent into a U-shape, with wraps of tape in the middle for insulation. I have used this method also. I just don't recommend it for solutions)

Power supply plugged back into power:

With the one end stuffed down into the socket hole for the Green wire, hold the jumper wire by the insulation, and touch the other end down into ANY socket hole that has a Black wire. (Ground)

Warning!
There may be a spark. You may wish to wear a glove on the hand for the jumper wire.
The voltage is 5 Volts (DC)

Two common flashlight batteries are 3 Volts. (DC. Each battery produces 1.5 Volts)

To me it isn't a big deal if there is a little spark. Wanted to advise you beforehand, so that you would be aware, though.

The Power On button that you push is made of plastic. Located inside it is the Power On switch.
With finesse the Power On switch can be removed, and a new one inserted.

(I use a hair dyer on low heat setting, and move the hair dryer back, and forth to gently soften the plastic, so that tabs can be eased to one side, and the Power on switch removed.

The Power On button/switch assembly can also be lowered, {Removed from computer}, into a bowl of very, very warm water, to soften the plastic Power On button. The switch will be removed, and thrown away. The plastic Power On button is then dried, and readied for the new Power on switch)

(Barring the worst case scenario, if a correct Power On switch cannot be obtained, a Power On switch can be used by itself, and would just hang outside of the computer. Not very aesthetically appealing, or professional, but the computer will work again)

I have found that this generic Power On switch, seems to be a correct substitute for most computers,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

Ebay may have one in Computers and Networking>Computer Components.

Older computers, used a different method to turn the Power Supply on.
(PSU - Power Supply Unit)

The Power On button pushed against a long metal rod, which in turn pushed against a Power On switch, located in the Power Supply.

The Power Supply in your computer always has a constant 5 Volt standby power, when the Power Supply is plugged into power.

When the Power On button is pushed, it pushes against the Power On switch.
Inside the switch is a convex shaped thin disk of metal.

The 'plunger' of the switch, pushes against the middle of the convex metal disk.

The outside edges of the disk are connected to Ground.
When the convex disk flattens, the middle touches a Positive connection.

This contact is Momentary.
The Power On switch is a Momentary Contact Switch.
When you let go of the Power On button, the disk resumes it's convex shape, and the brief connection is broken.

The Power On switch wires connect to pins on the motherboard.
The area the pins are in, is the Front Panel header.
(A connector on a motherboard is referred to as a Header. The plastic piece on the front of a computer is a Front Panel. Sometimes referred to as a Front Bezel)

To remove the Front Panel to your computer, far enough to easily access removing the Power On switch, the Power On switch wires will have to be disconnected from the Front Panel header, on the motherboard.

So will all the wires leading from the Front Panel, to the Front Panel header on the motherboard.

Looking back at the motherboard illustration, the Front Panel header is located on the very bottom right of the motherboard.

JFP1
(Junction Front Panel 1)

You will note that there are two rows of pins.
Four across the top row, five across the bottom row.

BEFORE (Not shouting) you attempt to remove the Front Panel, it would behoove you to make a drawing, and notes as to where those wires go.
If wires come loose, I don't have a way at present to tell you where they go.

It has been a while since I have worked on this series of Compaq Presario's. The wires from the Front Panel may just end in a single connector, that you simply line up with the corresponding pins on the motherboard, and plug the connector in. (On?)

The connector is oriented, by the pin in the Front Panel header that is missing.
Four pins across the top, with one missing.
Five pins across the bottom.
The connector will also have one hole blocked off, to match the pin layout of the Front Panel header.

The other wires from the Front Panel though, may not end in a single connector.
These headers are for the audio connections on the Front Panel, USB ports, and so on.

I'll await your diagnoses to see if a new Power On switch is required, or a new Power Supply.
If it is a new Power Supply that is required, I will give recommendations, and why, if you wish.

Should you have any questions, I will try to reply as speedily as possible.

Posted on May 26, 2010

Testimonial: "Thank you so much! What a great reply! I really appreciate the detail, references to online manuals as well as the suggestion for where to get parts. Wonderful help! THANK YOU!!!"

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