- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage.
CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING.
NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position.
If you hear a humming sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor.
Try this test out to see if u have weak windings on motor.
Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings
Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter.
Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released.
NO,NO,NO ! Fuses are electrical protection for the cars wiring installing a higher amp-age fuse takes longer to blow so your wiring gets hotter and starts to melt the insulation and shorts to other wires eventually burning up the harness. With a amp meter test the circuit to see how much power is needed to keep the circuit going if over rated (15 amp circuit taking 20 amps) then install a cycling circuit breaker 10 amp this will blow and cool and blow again continually then with a magnetic amp meter (Gauss meter) you can locate your short the source voltage causes the amp meter to jump as the fault occurs when you pass it meter will stop working.
the case for the 12 volt recepticals have an internal fuse. T?est with an ohm meter to see if the case is shorted out. If so replace the case.
The tow/haul button does not come out to be serviced Most likely that will be at fault. Check that also with the ohm meter to see if continuity is there.
does it blow a breaker? check to see what is going on by unplugging all the pumps, blowers lights and anything else plugged into the circuit board (heater too) turn the breaker on once everything is unplugged and then proceed to turn the spa off, plug one item back in and turn the breaker back on. Do this until you find the buzzing....
You may actually have a back relay on the circuit board causing the buzzing by not latching in when the pump or something is trying to come on.
Right off hand, I'd say, there's some loose wiring somewhere in the fan's electrical connections to the light fixture Removing the light fixture will give you access to that wiring. Be sure the wall switch for that fan is OFF, as well as the circuit breaker for the wall switch.
Hope this helps you to troubleshoot and solve the problem.