Question about HP Pavilion AllinOne MS214 185" Desktop PC (NY535AAABA)

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HP All In One MS214a Service Manual - HP Pavilion AllinOne MS214 185" Desktop PC (NY535AAABA)

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Http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/DocumentIndex.jsp?contentType=SupportManual&lang=en&cc=us&docIndexId=64180&taskId=101&prodTypeId=12454&prodSeriesId=3999451

Scroll down to the bold black subheading -
Service and maintenance information

Click on -
Maintenance and Service Guide: HP Pro All-In-One ms218/219

(The HP All-In-One MS214 is part of the All-In-One MS210 series, of all-in-one desktop computers.
The ms218/ms219 example is given, because they are also part of the MS210 series.
Apparently HP just chose the MS218/219 for a basic example)

[Ignore if you are aware of the following;

The manual is a Service Manual. It is a PDF file.
The computer you are using now has Adobe Reader on it, which uses PDF files.

After you click on the above manual name, it may take up to 30 seconds before the first page comes up ]

The all-in-ones are setup like a Laptop.

Means you CANNOT relieve your body from Static electricity, as you would for a desktop computer; in that you CANNOT just touch the metal frame.

You pop that Back Cover off, you wear an ESC wrist strap; or prepare to use your all-in-one for target practice.
(Motherboards fly like a Frisbee,

"WOW..........L@@K at that baby go!.................Oh, cr@p, poor squirrel!" )

Once the Back Cover is off, all of the Static Shock sensitive hardware components, are exposed.

Your body carries Static electricity. Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit), the delicate hardware components inside a computer.
Average cost is around $3 to $6.
Electro Static Discharge.

General example,

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103245

Connect it's alligator clip to a good ground source.
I connect to an unpainted surface, of the metal frame of an open, empty desktop computer case.

(I feel an Anti-Static Mat is unwarranted. I also don't want my wrist connected, to the local yokel line utility company's Ground source, either. Hey I can say that. I used to be a 'pole jockey' for a while)

Or you can set a large metal serving tray (Unpainted), on the table you're working on, and connect to it.
Or a large metal knicknack. (Unpainted)
You get the picture.

Back Cover:

You've already removed the Stand, Harddrive, Optical Drive, (CD/DVD drive), and Ram Memory.

The Back Cover is held in place by Philips head screws, and Latches, plus Tabs.

Latches formed out of the plastic of the Back Cover; and go around the outside, on the inside edges.
Tabs formed out of the plastic of the Front Bezel, that match the Latches.

The Tabs snap into the Latches.

In the Service Manual you are guided to use your fingers; pry first at an area near the Stand Mounting Bracket; then move around the Bottom to the Left side; and finally up the Left side until the Back Cover pops off.

I suggest starting with a thick guitar pick, then move to a Spudger Tool.
Example,

http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Spudger/IF145-002

Unless you have old knarly hands like mine with short fingernails, lol!

Most of the time you can forget about the finger method. Use a guitar pick to start, so you can get the Spudger Tool in more easily; then move to the Spudger Tool.

That plastic get's hard, and brittle with age, and the constant heat from inside.

DO NOT use a metal tool!! I have read here on the internet where some foo-l used a putty knife. Give me a break!
(Of course, some people could ruin a steel ball bearing with a rubber mallet in a sand box)
Also do not go too deep. You'll hit the motherboard, or some wires. 1/4 to 3/8ths inch.

Once the Back Cover is off, the rest of the components come off in layers. You should have already removed the Ram Memory, Optical Drive, and Harddrive; before you took the Back Cover off.

Replace LCD screen, or screen Inverter?
You have to remove screws from the Inside; to remove the Front Bezel.
(The plastic frame in front of the LCD screen - Front bezel)

They go around the inside edges of the Front Bezel.

Then the screws that hold the LCD screen Screen Frame in place, are removed, and LCD screen is removed.

http://www.hp.com/hpinfo/globalcitizenship/environment/productdata/Countries/_MultiCountry/disassembly_deskto_201033103157.pdf

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Can I be curious? (Said the computer geek)
Why are you disassembling?
Post back in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Posted on Jan 04, 2013

  • 129 more comments 
  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 04, 2013

    Joe...You are a marvel ...I have downloaded the manual and had a quick look before I go to sleep as its the middle of the night here ...Clearly I made some mistakes removing the back and I never used a static wrist band ...Hopefully I never caused any damage but seeing I bought this unit "faulty" on an auction ,I can now see that somebody has had a "go" at the unit before it was auctioned off... There are the usual signs ..ie tape half removed and screws missing ?? so I am not confident of getting it going...You ask "Why are you disassembling?"...well the unit is dead ...I plugged in the power supply and a green LED lit up just above the power plug (which I now believe came from the motherboard.......I then pressed the on/off switch on the front of the unit and it was dead...there was no sound of a fan or anything so I unplugged the power and checked the supply with a multi meter which tested OK ....I was then faced with what to do next and decided that I had to at least partially disassemble the unit....Now that I have the rear and the motherboard cover off I can see that I am out of my depth and need help ....I understand that the motherboard has to be the prime object in the search for the reason the unit will not go but I do not know how I should go about this and of course I am hoping somebody will offer me advice on if I can test the motherboard ...and of course how I go about it....Thanks Ron NZ

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 04, 2013

    Let's take a look at the motherboard Ron;http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/docum... See those little aluminum looking 'cans'? The ones that have a blue mark on one side, and the 4 that have a red mark? Those are Polymer Solid Capacitors. Doubt they would go out, unless lightning was involved. When they go though, YOU KNOW IT! They explode like a tiny grenade, and send shrapnel everywhere. What I really would like you to be concerned with, is the Power MOSFET's on the motherboard. The ones specifically for the power circuit. They are located on the motherboard, close to the DC Power Jack, that the AC adapter you have plugs into. Looks like I see two in what I would deem the power circuit, of the motherboard. The DC Power Jack is located at the Bottom of the motherboard, and right above the second motherboard mounting hole, from the Left side. Right next to the Ethernet port. Immediately right above it, to it's Left/Top corner, is a Power MOSFET. Small dark rectangular object, that has four J-leads on each side. ('Legs') NOT the Power MOSFET, but let me show you a general example of this kind of P.MOSFET, and a much larger view;http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en... Are they burned, blackened, blistered? (The P.MOSFET's used are SMD/SMT. Surface Mount Device/Surface Mount Technology) As you can see that baby costs 59 cents USD. (Unit Price: 0.58800)http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fair... $1.01 USD. Oh, the other was for a mass quantity price. Look for bad MLCC's. Multi-Layer Ceramic Capacitor. (They are also SMD/SMT) Just showing 4.7uF at 16 Volt examples, so you can get a look at one,http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components... Scroll down. (uF = Microfarad. The measurement of capacity used for small capacitors. NOT pF. PicoFarad) Look for bad Diodes. They're not crystal diodes. They are SMD/SMT also, and look like the MLCC's, but only two, or three 'legs'. I'm going to post some links to info that may help. These are oriented towards the Power Circuit, but in a laptop computer. There is also a charging circuit within the power circuit, that will not be present for your motherboard. No battery to charge, lol! Look on BOTH sides of the motherboard, in that DC Power Jack area. 1)http://mayohardware.blogspot.com/2010/04... 2)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCSNWi3UH... Applies to ceramic 'caps' too.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 04, 2013

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uiroWBkd... You don't need a soldering station. A 25 Watt iron, or so; with the chisel tip. Rosin core solder, rosin core solder paste, paste brush. Desoldering Braid, (Solder Wick), and a soldering iron stand, or at least a damp sponge.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9FC9fAlf... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOSFET http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_MOSFE...

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 06, 2013

    Joe ..I certainly hope you can stick with me for a while ..I have a soldering bolts etc and also a station and have desoldered mosfets etc on several monitor power boards...I have just noted that one can post images so I will insert an image of where I am at....Today the On/Off switch was tested and is OK so I presume there is a breakdown between the CPU and the M/B so tomorrow I will follow your directions...and let you know how I get on...You may be able to mark components on the image that need to be checked.. Thanks Ron PS I just tryed to upload an image and its limited to 150k ....and I do not know how I can reduce my photo anymore and make it viewable...but I think I have done it....

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 06, 2013

    Joe ..By your Comment I need to take the motherboard completely out of the unit to enable any Surface Mounted components under the MB...Ron.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 07, 2013

    Psst, Ron. This is a complete diagnosis of the motherboard, and we are performing a visual check for bad electronic components. Yes. Remove the motherboard. Be SURE you are following Anti-Static Precautions. (ESD wrist strap is best. Again; cost is $3 to $6) Presume there is a breakdown of Processor (CPU) to M/B? Not concerned with that. AM concerned with the DC to DC circuit on the motherboard, at present. NEED to get power to the motherboard FIRST. The cooling fan, (Fan Assembly) isn't even spinning. (First starts up the fan will spin. THEN it may quit until the Processor reaches operating temperature) Glad you did test the Power Control Board. I figure if the unit doesn't power on, test the Power On switch, and I guess I assumed everyone else does also. You know what they say about - Assume, lol! (Points: Ron -1, joecoolvette - 0) Let's regress for a moment, before I screw up. The All-in-one desktop computer you have, is set up just like a laptop. Uses an AC adapter, (Although there is no charging circuit, because no Battery) and cooling components. (Cooling Tube(s), Heatsink, and Fan Assembly) So...........does the DC Power Jack move? Trying to see if there are cracked solder joints for it. Motherboard in hand, (Anti-Static Precautions) test the continuity of the DC Power Jack TO motherboard. Start with the Positive connection That is the Center Hole of the jack. Does a straightened out paperclip fit in that hole? No? Then you need a small piece of wire that is stiff, to go into that hole. Positive (Red) probe lead to it. Negative probe lead TO solder joint on opposite side of motherboard. (Where the prong lead of Center Hole is) (OHM's - 1K) Do you get a reading? NOT concerned with exact reading, just seeing IF you get a reading. Check the negative prongs also. Is there any cracking at those solder joints? (Bright light, and magnifying glass) Motherboard is removed for a complete visual inspection of all electronic components on the motherboard. Specifically in the DC to DC circuit area, on the motherboard. Mark components on the motherboard image you presented? I believe I have hit upon those already, Ron. Exploded Solid Polymer capacitors? The 'cans' with the red marks, and the ones with the blue marks? Let me specifically identify some. In your photo; The curved Cooling Tube that comes up on the Left. This is the one for the Processor. The Processor is under that metal plate with the bracket that has 4 'arms'. To the right of where the Cooling Tube ends, are two Solid Capacitors. They each have a Blue mark on one side. There are 4 with a Red mark on one side, below the 2 Blue ones. Here is a better look,http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/docum... Turn the HP Support photo 90 degrees to the Left, and it will look like your photo. (Minus hardware, and cooling components) The capacitors are used in the Motherboard Voltage Regulator Circuit, and some are used as Filters.http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/6... Like I said though, when they go, they EXPLODE. Should be obvious if any are bad. Are there some on the other side?

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 07, 2013

    Power MOSFETS. I think the ones you replaced are different. 2 or 3 leads? These are different. They generally have 8 leads. (J-leads) 4 on each side. Let's look at a blog page, dealing with the HP pavilion dv6000 series, and Pavilion dv9000 series, Power MOSFETs, http://mayohardware.blogspot.com/2010/04... See the Fairchild Semiconductor Industries - FDS6679 - P.MOSFET, and in the second photo; the Alpha & Omega Semiconductor Limited - AO4407 - P.MOSFET? (AO4407 is obsolete now) ALSO; in the second photo down. Look at the small rectangular object, with the dark wide band in the middle of it; sitting to the Immediate RIGHT/BOTTOM corner of the AO4407. That is an MLCC. Multi-Layer Ceramic Capacitor. (It is also SMD/SMT) There is one to the right of it, one above that one, one at the Top; and one to the right of the top one. Looking back at the AO4407 again, there are four smaller examples to the Bottom/Left corner. Two close by, two towards the bottom of the motherboard. Looking at the HP Support photo, there is one immediately above the DC Power Jack's right corner, and Ethernet ports Left corner, I THINK. Looks like one RIGHT ABOVE the DC Power Jack. Should be a gaggle of these babies. Look on the opposite side of the motherboard. JUST ONE is bad? No working DC to DC circuit. (Think replacing MOSFETS was bad? That SMD component is about the size of this --> O ) No visual indication of bad electronic components, (SMD, and the Leaded capacitors), may mean the motherboard has been Static shocked. The person before you did Not know about Anti-Static Precautions. How to know? Rough. My suggestion would be to test that AMD AM2 processor socket, processor; on a known to be working computer, that will support it. Has to have an AM2 processor socket, and has to support the FSB of the Processor. (Front Side Bus) Test the DDR2 Sdram ram memory module/s. They are SO-DIMM, just like laptops use. Means you need a laptop that supports them (It), to test them (It) A Processor is THE most susceptible hardware component to Static Shock. If it's bad, suspect the motherboard to be static shocked. No obvious signs of electronic component failure? DC Power Jack solder joints are not cracked? Motherboard is suspected of being static shocked? Replace motherboard. I have seen them recently on the internet, for $64. Awaiting your reply. Regards, joecoolvette

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 07, 2013

    http://s1172.beta.photobucket.com/user/h... I have put photos here on Photobucket..I think If you click the link you will be able to see them ...in the meantime I will reread your instructions ....Regards Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 07, 2013

    s1172.beta.photobucket.com/user/hairykiore/media/MB62_zps8f126bab.jpg.html This link should work

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 07, 2013

    Came out pretty good!http://s1172.beta.photobucket.com/user/h... How about the opposite side?

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 07, 2013

    Whoops, my bad! Apparently I just learned how to use Photobucket! Lol!

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 07, 2013

    Excellent photography! Well I know it has a Graphics Card. It is set up on the MXM principle, (Developed for laptops), and made by Nvidia.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MXM The processor Thermal Paste was drying up. Wasn't properly applied anyway. Can see by the pattern. (Yes I know part of it is gone) That MXM style of Nvidia graphics card, is worth bucks to somebody, if this whole thing goes down, and you don't want to replace motherboard. All solid capacitors are there. Comparing to HP Support link,http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/docum... Sounds dumb, I know, but if one exploded it may just be two tiny wires sticking up, and from my vantage point, (Photos), I would never know unless I compared. Hmmm, something else just crossed my mind. Fuse SMD style. Alright; find the photo you have that matches the HP Support - Motherboard Specifications photo I have given. Look at the Ethernet port, and the DC Power Jack to it's left. Look immediately above them, in the middle. Looks like an SMD fuse to me. Rectangular block; silvery in color; with white band in middle.http://sigma.octopart.com/8955166/image/...http://octopart.com/0469005.wr-littelfus...http://www.mouser.com/Circuit-Protection... If it is, it is also located right next to the DC Power Jack.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 07, 2013

    Thought it was an MLCC. Bet now it is a fuse SMD/SMT style. Plus I am seriously late, but don't want you to think I do not have any manners; Thank you for the rating!

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 08, 2013

    Joe ..There are 9 photos altogether ...Did I mention that the LED light beside the DC Power Socket did go when power was applied and YES the 4 SMD Fuses marked K ..These were all checked with my multimeter and all had continuity..I have had a good look at the board and see no visible sign of heat or damage....Re the CPU..I have no way of testing it .....Cheers Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 08, 2013

    Joe.I have put a 10th Photo up with the 4 SMD Fuses K with a blue Rectangle round each ..I have looked at the under side and to my knowledge there are no fuses on that side ..Now I have rung a local Computer shop ..the young lady told me they test CPU's but I am not sure what she means by that and anyway its still Xmas here and the person who does not return till the 21st of January......I wonder if you have any more tests I can do on the board as it is....Would I be correct in believing if the thermal cooling and fan were still connected .. the M/B could be powered up to look for HOT spots??? Cheers Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 08, 2013

    Joe ..Anything designated with an F on the motherboard I presume is a fuse ..as well as the 4 x K fuses I have found P and N which according to the M/b's marking are fuses so I will check these with my multimeter...Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 08, 2013

    LED light doesn't take squat for power. Neither does the Fan. (About 2 to 3 Watts for the fan) At least we know the motherboard is receiving power from the DC Power Jack. And that seems to be the end of the road. Suggest follow the circuit traces on the motherboard, FROM the DC Power Jack. Fuse to what SMD on the motherboard? (SMD's) Trace the power. See where it stops at. Use the Ground (Negative) point at the DC Power Jack, then use your Positive probe lead to chase the power. Also; staring me right in the face; SMD Power Inductors. Two of them; 150 marking.http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-pcs-SMD-SMT-Su... Make sure power is getting through them. What's the voltage on the CMOS battery? If it ain't 3 Volts DC, pitch, get a new one. What? Yeah, I know, but it would blo-w if you get power going, and still nothing happens because of that small shiny disk. CPU installed, cooling system reattached after THOROUGHLY cleaning, and properly applying fresh, new Thermal Paste, (Graphics chipset too, and install it's cooling tube/heatsink) Plus install Ram Memory. With just those items you should get the BIOS screen. No? You don't have enough power for the Processor alone, much less the Ram Memory too; or the BIOS chipset has been flashed, and needs to be programmed (Re-flashed) again. Or replaced. You can try it. This is a learning experience after all. I believe that you still need to trace the power. The FIRST chipset to receive power, is the BIOS chipset. Trace to there from DC Power Jack. Don't trace across though. That chipset uses 5 Volts DC, and the multimeter may have a 9 Volt battery. Cheers from the central US. I believe now we have gone as far as we can. Plus FixYa may be closing this thread. I would like you to get a hold of this tech. HE, really knows his stuff. (You should read his background, !O_O!) I didn't see any circled items in red, in the 10th photo. Looked through all just in case, but still no. That's OK. Hope you get it going. Regards, joecoolvette http://mayohardware.blogspot.com/2010/04...

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 08, 2013

    Joe ..Apparantly there are 12 fuses ..I cannot find #'s 2,6 and 8 .....See new photo on Photobucket.. Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 08, 2013

    Joe Sorry ..I found 2 under the board..one to go and I presume irs under the board also..Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 08, 2013

    Joe ..I have found all 12 Fuses and tested them.. ....Will do tracing tomorrow in better light..Thanks Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 08, 2013

    Joe.....Each fuse is encircled by a BLUE oblong box......It appears one cannot enlarge on Photobucket so I presume one has to download the photos and then look at them in a good image program...I still use PSP3 from 10 years ago ?? Cheers Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 08, 2013

    Joe..I have put a resistor wire down the middle of the DC power input socket and alligator clipped it to my Multi meter Positive lead..Now wirh the MultiM set on continuity I should get an audio or meter reading if I touch one of the solder joints under the board but I have checked all the joints in the vicinity so either the Resistor wire is not making contact in the socket or the socket has a problem..But Joe I am no technician and maybe my assessment is wrong..Cheers Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 08, 2013

    Your assessment is correct. A lead cut off a new resistor should be plenty long enough. Wouldn't that be nice if it was just cracked solder joints of the DC Power Jack to motherboard. A tiny dab of rosin flux paste, heat, and add tiny dab of rosin core solder; for each DC Power Jack solder joint. Good to go. I use PS7. A LOT! Lol! Yeah, right after I posted it clicked. He stated BLUE, not Red. Yes, DING! I see them plainly now, and see the photos even have a header underneath. 4 photos. (I'm using an HP 2009M - 20 inch widescreen monitor, with a RCA EN-V 26 inch HDTV for a monitor, too. To enlarge I would screen capture, then use Photoshop 7) I tried finding a replacement jack, to no avail, but only looked through 15 pages at Mouser Electronics. Hopefully it has a number on it you can cross-reference. Can always check computer shops, and see if they have an old defunct mobo that uses this jack. Probably would be another all-in-one computer's motherboard. Maybe kept behind to rob components off of. And maybe I'm dreaming, too.

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 08, 2013

    Joe..What Puzzles me is the fact that when one applied power before I started disassembling ..the small LED light went on ...and yet now I cannot seem to get any connection between the centre pin of the socket and the solder joints at the rear of the M/B....by the way the switch has UDE RV1-270150MF 0947ud printed on it although the V may be a U ...Do you know of a way I can double check the socket?? I presume there is a chance that the wires I am trying are not making contact with the socket although I am turning them etc trying to get some reaction on the Multimeter...I have found these in a catalog here from an Australian Franchaise .that does have an agent in the city...Cheers RonRon

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 08, 2013

    Joe..I went outside to take some photos of the socket and found out the numbers I gave you on the previous post were actually from the internet socket????????Sorry about that ...Ronr

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 09, 2013

    Joe ..Power Socket 091116-A3 and 2 new photos are on photobucket ..One of Socket and its Number and one of the solder joints under the M/B..Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 09, 2013

    A) DC Power Jack/Solder Joints; I concur with your logic. For one, looking at the DC power jack/solder joint photo; the two bottom pins, or solder joints, go to the outside U-shaped metal bracket, of the DC Power Jack. You wouldn't want them in the Positive circuit trace area. For two only one circuit trace area has a just one pin in it. The other pins are in the Negative/Ground circuit trace area. Logic concludes that pin must go to the Center Hole, or Positive connection of the DC Power Jack. Have you tested the Ground(Negative) contacts in the inside of the jack? Tested for continuity to solder joints on bottom? Just curious if they have continuity. The agent; See if the agent recognizes the manufacturer symbol on the jack. Seahorse or Dragon. I'm willing to bet Dragon. Find the manufacturer, then match up the part number 091116-A3. Yes, I know it sounds crazy; are you getting continuity through the resistor wire? Like I said. I'm not leaving ANY 'stone unturned here', lol! No continuity getting through? Heck with it. Pull the jack. Let's see if you get continuity now. Also you'll know what pins(Prongs) of the jack go to what circuit trace area, and when soldered back in, (IF good), you will know the solder joints are good, because YOU made them. Solder joints? They look good from my perspective, sitting here 10,000 miles away in the central USA, lol! Use a bright light. Grab the jack, and see if you can gently wiggle it, while looking at the solder joints with a magnifying glass. Again, if I was at this point I would pull it, check for continuity of it, (Jack), and if good resolder to mobo. (MOtherBOard) Come to think of it; does that side of the motherboard have a see-through protective plastic on it? Take an X-acto knife, (Whatever), and see if you can scratch a solder joint, and clear like material comes off. Ain't gonna get no continuity with THAT stuff on there! Ya know, you can get a little creative. Doesn't need to be THE exact DC Power Jack, to replace. Jack can be a separate unit with wires going to it from the motherboard. Not professional? If you do it right it will look pro. Look like it's from the factory. Only you, and your hairdresser will know. (What? American commercial) Soldering skills a litle rusty? Practice a bunch first. Desoldering Braid, (Solder Wick) will kick a Desoldering Tool to the curb. (Solder Su-cker Tool) Wish the history of this unit was known. What happened when it quit? Probably gonna be one of life's mystery's, ha!

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 09, 2013

    Joe...No matter what I put down the centre hole of the DC socket and connect my multimeter to the positive solder point under the board I cannot get a reading ...Next I put a pin down into the negative part of the socket ..and I get continuity with the ground solder points under the board BUT Strange?? I also get a reading on "part" of the positive solder joint under the board....I will try and video this for you...and post for you to see.. With 12 fuses all round this board would I presume that if the M/B had a major problem component wise,,,one of these fuses would be blown but all are perfect?? Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 09, 2013

    Joe I have the video done but I wonder if you are on Skype cause I could then send it to you... Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 09, 2013

    Joe..I have lowered the resolution right down because I simply do not know what the max size of a video that is allowed..Its now poor quality but hopefully still good enough for you to follow ...I needed another hand and that is why I plugged the power supply in and clamping a pair of surgical pliers to the exposed part of the DC plug I was able to connect my multimeter to the negative side of rhe DC Power Plug...Cheers Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 09, 2013

    .Next I put a pin down into the negative part of the socket ..and I get continuity with the ground solder points under the board BUT Strange?? I also get a reading on "part" of the positive solder joint under the board....Q) Are we talking in the circuit trace area Around the Positive pin solder joint? Or just a certain area on the Solder Joint itself? Just curious. The only way you are going to get feedback, is a component in the circuit has shorted. NOT Open; shorted. It's feeding back through the Ground(Negative) circuit, (Ground circuit traces) to the Positive circuit trace you are testing. Make sense? Fuses. I also concur with your thinking. To me I think they are more like a fusible link. Instead of easily replacing a fuse; cartridge/spade/whatever; the fuse has to be removed, and replaced. May be a circuit breaker that has been overlooked. Looking back at the solder joint/DC Power Jack photo, I assume the 3 black 'dots', are plastic pins coming down from the DC Power Jack? Two at the bottom are in the Ground circuit trace area, but the top one is in 'nevernever land'. (No circuit trace) The Ground pin bottom/right, has a splattering of solder going to the bottom/right 'plastic pin'. PLASTIC - right? The top pin (Positive) solder joint, almost has solder splattered over to the Ground circuit trace. Something about that solder joint, and the two upper adjacent ones, that just doesn't look right. Probably 'just grasping at straws', however. (This will make 30 comments. Pretty cool. Haven't had that happen in over 3 years, now here. Usually comments are shut off before this) Just in case; LOVE your photography. Excellent work! From your posts on here I believe you will find the problem. Just be aware that you are going a lot further, than most supposed 'techs' do. Isn't going to be easy. Remove the jack. Then see what you get. (Oh, and if you can keep posting, lol! Would be excellent if you found the problem, while we can still 'converse')

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 09, 2013

    Joe I will try and get a closeup photo of the Solder Joints for the DC Socket but I have tried in the pasr to get sloseups with my camera and they always are blurred....Now there are 3 ground solder joints...no ptoblem there..its that single positive solder joint ...I will have a good look at it under a magnifing glass...Of course I could completely desolder it and clean it up and then resolder it ... I just do not understand why a wire when put down the centre of the socket and with a multi meter lead attached does not show a contact when the other lead is put on the relative solder joint underneath the board...Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 10, 2013

    Joe... I am having trouble desoldering the DC Socket Joints apart from the Positive joint ...I have put 5 photos up where I am at for you to look at and I have tested the desoldered positive joint to the centre of the plug with a needle in it and nothing...I even biked round town looking for a Plug or socket the same....Nothing??? Next week I can try an electronic repair shop who always tries to help me but please understand ..I am living in the "ar*e hole" of the world ..far away from the main commercial areas of the country...Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 10, 2013

    Nothing like trying to repair an electronic component while you're in the bush. (At least you're not being fired upon, lol!) I see the Positive blade pin is slightly twisted. Same for the nearby Ground pin. After heating the solder joint, take a pair of pliers, and straighten them flat. You are applying pressure to the jack, when removing, right? Fingertips grab jack, and the fingernails/knuckle joints rest on the motherboard, to be used as a fulcrum. While applying pressure to the jack, in a fashion pulling on it away from the motherboard. Then one, or two solder joints are heated, and the jack is pulled on. You can only get one, maybe two; leads to start to come out. They will only come out so far, as the other leads are still holding the jack to the motherboard. Once that side of the jack is lifted a little, then go to the opposite side, and heat those leads. Pull up. You can only go so far. Keep going back, and forth. Keep pulling up. Eventually all leads will ease up out of the motherboard, and you'll have jack in hand. The flat blade pins from the jack though, will have to be bent flat again, (Pliers), before they will come out of the motherboard circuit trace hole. (Heat the solder joint, pliers to straighten pin tip to flat, instead of S shaped) I use Desoldering Braid. (Solder Wick), to get rid of the excess solder. Then proceed on. Yeah I know, supplies and access are limited; jus sayin. Soldering tip needs to be clean, and well tinned. Using a tiny spot of rosin flux paste, will also help with de-soldering. Is an interesting Positive lead. No continuity. So far,....that is looking like the problem. What is going on in - Power Supply Joints E? See where it states PR165? Looks like a scratch going from PR165 to C187. But looks like a cracked motherboard, from the tiny solder joint under C187; all the way down to the solder joint above the motherboard mounting hole. Plus the two small solder joints to the left, of the mounting hole. Crack in-between them, and tailing down from the bottom one, a little bit. On my 26 inch HDTV as a monitor, that photo is around 8 inches tall. Oh yeah. Cracked motherboard in Power Supply Joints A. Unless I'm wrong. Doesn't look like I am from this vantage point. Looks like a high impact happened on the AC adapter plug, while plugged into the DC Power Jack. Which is rational because it can easily have been done. I'm telling ya,..........no matter how I look at photos A and E, it looks like a series of cracks, in a continuous line. PR165 to C187 to below R377 to down towards bottom of motherboard.

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 10, 2013

    Joe... Sorry No Cracks ..I brushed on some isopryl alcohol to clean the area and what appears to be cracks are actually hairs from the brush.....Its the middle of the night here and I was fooled until I found out the cracks "moved".....My new Chinese Solder Sucker lasted about 4 sucks ...I thought it would be the O Ring so I went to a hardware shop and tryed some new ones but I could not get it to suck ...I should have bought the Genuine American one and not a Chinese copy...so I used solder braid but I still have problems using braid ..EG see how I was able to get the solder from the positive using braid yet I could not clean the others with the same braid ...Never mind I will have the jack removed in the morning...Cheers Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 10, 2013

    Little dab of rosin flux paste on the tip of the braid, works wonders. Sort of like priming a well pump with water. Then lay the pre-tinned braid on the joint, soldering iron tip on braid, and wait until solder melts. Don't think this is the new silver stuff. You may have to mount a DC Power Jack, in the Back Cover. Then wires from it to solder joints on motherboard. If you can't find a direct replacement. (HA! Wouldn't the next guy be surprised when he pops the Back Cover off. "Hello. What's this?") I've got two, or three Solder Su-cker Tools. Wouldn't use one if you paid me. Desoldering Braid is my thing. However, to each their own. IMHO I feel those Ground pins you have started removing solder from, are ready. Once pressure is applied to the jack with the fingers, and you heat a solder joint, THAT lead of the jack should start coming out. How far? Maybe 2mm. Then go to a lead adjacent from it, or opposite from it, and heat it. Applying pressure the whole time. The lead of the power jack that you are trying to remove, will only come up so far, because the other leads are holding it in. Ease one lead up out of the motherboard 2mm, the the adjacent, or opposite lead, 2mm. Keep going back, and forth; or around and around, until the leads finally come up out of the motherboard. The leads DO NEED to be flat, and straight, though. Once solder is heated, bend those leads flat. GO SLOW. DO NOT overheat the motherboard circuit trace. It will lift off of the motherboard. Heat a circuit trace hole too much? It wont' accept tinning again. (To Tin: thin coat of solder) Won't tin? This = won't solder, either. Then you'll be using jumper leads made out of small wires, from circuit trace to circuit trace. Ummmmm.

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 10, 2013

    Joe..I have come to a halt..none of my soldering bolts will generate enough heat to melt the solder to move the socket ..Its a disaster ..I cannot see properly and I am outside in the sun and if I carry on I am concerned I may damage the board plus I only have two hands so the board is not anchored ...The solder will not run...So I just do not know why...Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 10, 2013

    Joe ..Its the socket casing pins that are the problem...Is this a different type of solder on them.......Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 11, 2013

    Joe..Its off the board so hopefully I have done no damage apart from a burnt hand ...Clearly my small soldering bolts were doing nothing so I finally used an old heavy large bolt wide to push down on the front two casing pins at once ...when they gave away I was hopeful I had it beaten....I will put pictures up as soon as I have cleaned everything up....HOWEVER ..are there any special instructions how to test this socket??? Also I would like to ask you a question about another M/B I have but they might close our ability to posr on us..Cheers Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 11, 2013

    Center Hole is Positive. Metal tabs on the inside of the DC Power Jack, Around center hole), are Negative. Nope. No special instructions. The metal U-shaped bracket on the jack, usually comes off. Just reporting in case you wish to try to disassemble, to investigate what the problem may be. Positive circuit trace hole TO any Ground(Negative) circuit trace hole. Do you get continuity? No. Not concerned at this point about what reading shows, just that A reading DOES show. Go ahead with the other mobo question. If Comments stop, just post it as a separate product problem. If you cannot find an exact, or close enough replacement for that jack; you could mount a model of jack externally on the Back Cover. Now hold on. I know it looks like cr@p, and would deter from a possible sale of the all-in-one, (Should you ever decide), but it will be functional, and perhaps not seen. It's on the back. The jack HAS to fit that input plug from the AC adapter. It of course isn't only the diameter you need to worry about, but where the Ground(Negative) and Positive locations on the input plug, are. You'lll know by looking at an example of the jack, on the website that has it, or that agent. Just have to get out your 'measuring stick', measure the jack points (Length, diameter, where the contacts are), and compare; going page by page on the electronics dealers website. Then you can find the model you need, and compare to what the agent has. Just a thought. Of course this all hinges at present on what you find, when you run a continuity test on the motherboard (As previously stated)

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 11, 2013

    Joe ..Photos are up on Photo Bucket..Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 11, 2013

    Joe .I cannot get a "beep" from that socket ..I can look amongst my junk but doubt if I can Find a DC socket although there is one place down here I have not tried...So will ring them now..Ron.

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 11, 2013

    Joe ..please excuse my lack of knowledge but as I understand I should bench test the M/B ....With the CPU out and the fan plugged in will the fan go if power is supplied to the M/B or does it need a signal from the CPU before it will work...My idea is to power the M/B up but I need to know if its actually being powered up ...I could reinstall all the thermal piping with new thermal paste but at this point I want to establish if the M/B powers up after I supply it with a temporary power supply...Cheers Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 11, 2013

    Joe..That other question was regards another PC ...now I have stripped it down and tryed 3 PSU all I know work....So I have the MB ...CPU and PSupply connected to a monitor....I switch the power on and it stays on for 20-30 seconds and cuts out then immediately powers on for another 20-30 second and cuts out again and THIS cycle continues......So for some reason its failing in the POST ....the monitor receives no signal ... I have checked the normal things like battery etc so unless its the CPU (which I cannot check) it has to be the M/B ...Its a socket 1156 i7 and I have been waiting for one to show up here for sale... But I thought I would ask you if this pattern of behaviour is anything you have come across...Thanks Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 11, 2013

    Yes. Bad Electrolytic Capacitors. There may be solid capacitors on that motherboard, and also Electrolytic capacitors.http://capacitorlab.com/visible-failures... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lut7MX5Dd... http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/5...

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 11, 2013

    The basic construction of a Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor is; A) Thin aluminum case. Resembles a Coca-Cola can with no top or bottom. The top of the capacitor's case is the Vent Cover. Thin aluminum flat disk. Has a shape etched partway into it. Usually a lK or X. The bottom is a synthetic rubber thin flat disk, called the Bung. The two leads of the Radial style capacitor poke through it. B)There are 3 strips inside. 1) One strip is thin foil metal, and is the Conducting Strip. The Positive lead is connected to it. 2) The second strip is also thin foil metal, but has a non-conducting medium applied to it. It is the Non-Conducting strip, and has the Negative lead connected to it. The last strip is of a paper-like substance, and is soaked with Electrolytic Paste. It is laid in-between the two metal strips, and all 3 are rolled up tightly. There are several layers, of this layered combination; inside the capacitor. When the capacitor starts to fail, the Electrolytic Paste inside develops a gas. Hydrogen Gas. The gas expands inside the capacitor, and compromises the Vent Cover, and/or Bung. The etched shape of the Vent Cover pops open, and/or the synthetic rubber Bung has one side pushed out. (Makes a capacitor lean hard) Top (Vent Cover), and/or Bottom (Bung), compromised; the Electrolytic Paste is pushed out by the gas. So much paste oozes out, and the capacitor operates at a weakened state. Too much paste loss, and the capacitor fails. Capacitors operating at a weakened state, would give you the cyclic action you describe. Only solid capactiors used, and no Electrolytic? Then the theory falls by the wayside.

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 12, 2013

    Joe..Ok thanks ..I am up very late and naturally I would like to get back to the testing of the HP M/B....As I understand there are dangers here and I could blow it so I have to be sure I have in my head what to do......I could of course reassemble the computer but this would be a waste of time if there is an easier and quicker method......Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 12, 2013

    Joe...To be safe It seems I have to reassemble the whole unit to test if it powers up.... so I will solder wires to the positive and negative pins on the M/B ( where the socket was) and put it together again (repasting the CPU etc) and then apply power and see what happens ..Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 12, 2013

    Joe..I have soldered a wire to the positive and negative under the MB and have the MB back into the Chassis ..I presume I do not have to reconnect everything.so I will put the Thermal Cooling on BUT FIRST ..I have to repaste and I am sure you have specific instructions on doing this so If you do not mind could you please instruct me and hopefully tomorrow I can fire it up?? Re cleaning the old paste ..I know how this is done properly with a paper to get the paste off and Isopryl Alchol on a cotton bud for the final cleaning......So tomorrow all will be revealed ...It really would be great if it fired up and the socket was the problem all along ...With a positive wire soldered on I have checked and have a continuity reading from where the plug was to the next component and this was missing when I tested with the socket on..So I am quietly confident... Cheers Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 12, 2013

    Ron, install the Ram Memory ALSO. ALWAYS use fresh, new Thermal Paste, AND cooling system. Do not fire a computer up, even for a few seconds with no cooling for the Processor. (Graphics chipset too) An AMD processor will burn up in less than a minute, with no Thermal Paste, or cooling!! Yes, you can leave the mobo out. (MOtherBOard) LCD screen connected. If the BIOS screen comes up, you are well on your way. Hold the Power On Button in for a count of 10 seconds, computer will turn off. Remove all power, reassemble. If the Comments stop on here, and you get the computer fixed, I wanna' know. Click on my user name, go to my account. Find any of the new posts that are made, (Proble/Solution), and post your findings in a Comment. I wish you luck, and godspeed. Regards, joecoolvette

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 13, 2013

    Joe...The thermal module has what looks like a foam pad on it that sits on the chip set ...no sign of thermal paste so I have to wait til I know what to do regards it.? I have everything else cleaned and ready to put together.. Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 13, 2013

    Joe..Amazing ?? what I thought was a square foam pad is I believe a perfectly square thick "pad" of thermal paste ...strange?? So I will apply paste on all 3 contacts (video,Chipset and CPU ) and screw the module back into position..Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 13, 2013

    Joe..No joy ...The fan should go but doesn't......so I pulled power chord....the green LED showed power so basicly its probably time to give up? Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 14, 2013

    "oe..Amazing ?? what I thought was a square foam pad................" Sure it wasn't a Thermal Pad? It's a spongey material impregnated with Thermal Paste. Good call either way, because you can't reuse a Thermal Pad. IMHO they are J-U-N-K when being used on a Processor. Suggest just Thermal Paste. Graphics chipset? A LOT of times when dealing with laptop (netbook) design, the spacing in-between the metal plate on the Cooling Tube; and top of graphics chipset; requires using a cut to fit piece of Thermal Pad. There are different thicknesses available, so make sure you get the correct thickness.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-100mmx100mm... That -> wipe with a paper first <- statement. Not me. I use an old credit card, then Q-tips dipped in 91 percent Isopropyl Alcohol. If it takes 22 alcohol dipped Q-tips, that's what I'll use; to make SURE both surfaces are Spotlessly clean. When I state clean enough to eat off of, I'm not joking around.http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/H... In tracing power on the motherboard, what is the next chipset/SMD component, etc; that receives power? Power known going to the motherboard, means tracing away from the known power source on motherboard, and finding where the power IS going, and is NOT going. One tiny SMD diode can sc-rew up the whole ballgame. Power is known by the LED? Ain't impressed. Remember what I stated about the power requirement for an LED? Not squat. To go on; Power to that LED? Trace away from it. See where it receives it's power from. Follow the circuit traces/components. It's no marvel or mystery why that motherboard isn't working. Just have to trace, and see what component, or components; aren't passing the power on. Again, the BIOS chipset receives power F-I-R-S-T. That is the first chipset IMHO, to trace back from, or to. If nothing else, it was a learning experience. You should also contact the owner of mayohardware.blogspot.com Regards, joecoolvette

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 14, 2013

    Joe..??? That explains what was puzzling me "Thermal Pad"?? there are several of these so although I put the thermal system on the M/B I only powered up for a few seconds ....I was aware to protect the CPU etc in case something I had done was not right ....and as I understand the fan had to go immediately power was applied.. SO now I have to do a "trace".....So I need some questions answered.....Do I remove the M/B ? Do I trace the top and the bottom of the M/B......and I am putting another photo up and on it will be a link to another HP all in one..with a similar problem so I am wondering if I but it??? Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 14, 2013

    Joe ..The Photo is up..Just copy the whole title under it and that is the link to another HP All In One...Sadly it appears to have a similar problem... Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 14, 2013

    Whew! That trook some searching! The HTML you posted didn't work. This is the HTML from my search. Let's see if it works,http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.... You are also supposed to go tohttp://www.cnet.com.au/hp-pavilion-ms214... Naa, I already found the specs. Hmmm, HP wants $350 simoleans, huh? Makes me think there is something wrong with the mounting of the graphics chipset, due to the cost. Of course we ARE talking about a pre-built computer company, and that's like a hospital. Charge you $100 for a box of Kleenex's. Hmmm, he said. Ponder on this a bit. Is Frankenstein living at your house, Ron? lol! Alligator hemostat's, for a Ground connection, and that red wire Positive? Ha! Jus messin' around. I would alter the alligator clip with a bending, and have the jaws then fit around the cylindrical part of the AC adapter plug. (Negative/Ground) I also think the wires are too small, and there's too much stuff in the circuit. You're going to get line loss of power. The more direct a connection you can make, the better. Kapish? The connection for Ground? Going to a Negative circuit trace hole, I presume? And the red wire Positive? To the Positive circuit trace hole? Where does the Positive circuit trace hole lead to? That is; what circuit traces come away from that hole, and to what components are the First in line? Got them? OK. Do you have power leading AWAY from them? Believe one circuit trace should go to a gaggle of Multi-Layer Ceramic Capacitors, (MLCC, and SMD), that surround the Power MOSFET's. Power coming out of them? Test the Power MOSFET's,http://mayohardware.blogspot.com/2010/04... Read.http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/semitest.ht... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BU7qHWts... Look through the videos, lots of info.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 15, 2013

    Negative (Black) lead of multimeter connected to Ground circuit trace on motherboard. Positive (Red) probe lead of multimeter, then touches the pin of the first electronic component AWAY from the Positive circuit trace on the motherboard. IS power going to it? IS power going away from it, and to the next electronic component, on THAT circuit trace? On, and on, and on, until you have traced all electronic components leading away from the DC Power Jack's positive circuit trace hole; LEADING up to the BIOS chipset. Which,...for the life of me I cannot find. lol! Should have Phoenix, Award, or AMI on it. Remove the Processor, and Ram Memory. LED get brighter? Not getting enough power to Processor. Test the AC adapter AT the plug, WITH the Processor, and Ram Memory attached. (You can reverse any of these steps. I'm just 'thinking outloud') Do you get the full DC Voltage you should be getting? The connection to motherboard, also puts a load on the AC adapter; and is a better method of testing it. Less than the required voltage? You need a good AC adapter. No, don't care if this unit is new. Not required voltage, pitch it. If that Fairchild Semiconductor Industries - FDS6675BZ - Power MOSFET; immediately above the DC Power Jack is bad; the buck stops there. The Power stops there. Use the info in the last post, test it. Go here for the specs,http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fair... Test good? Go on. Trace through the circuit traces, and electronic components. Where does power go away from the SMD fuse, close to the DC Power Jack? Is this component getting power?

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 15, 2013

    Joe.....But is this done with the M/B out or in ...Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 15, 2013

    Out. You are still diagnosing.

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 16, 2013

    Joe....You said earlier.."I have seen them recently on the internet, for $64." Do you recall where ? was this on Ebay? I have to be honest you are too far above me and in reality I am confused and lost...As I understand by tracing we are using the "continuity" function on a multimeter to establish if a connection exists SO Is not there a specific point that is identifiable on a photo that can be used and one either moves onwards from that point if continuity exists or work backwards if continuity does not exist .....Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 16, 2013

    1) "I have seen them recently on the internet, fro $64." I could have sworn I did. Think I can find it now? NO. Sheesh! Look up the HP part number. In the Service Manual > Spare Parts, there are two HP part numbers listed, for motherboards; HP 597920-001, and HP 641326-001. I believe yours to be the HP 641326-001. But you of course need to look on the mobo to be sure. (MOtherBOard) Cheapest I have seen them now (641326-001) is $165.00 US. Makes me wonder if I had a bit of undigested beef in me tummy, and wuz seeing things. (Ghost of Christmas past, lol!) Resale of all-in-one when you get it repaired? Maybe there will be a decent enough profit margin, to warrant this for you. Keep because it's 'cool'? Not me Ron. An all-in-one is a piece of jumk, IMHO. Upgrade components? Yeah, right. Not enough to write home to Mom about. Upgrade graphics? Pggh! Everything is crammed into a small case like a laptop. Heat is a major issue. With a desktop computer, I want that baby maxed. That is my powerhouse. A laptop is just for conveniece IMHO. Not a powerful beast I can do stuff with. Therefore I don't want a desktop computer that emulates a wimpy laptop. No all-in-one's for this kid. Repair the motherboard, and have a working all-in-one? THIS, I can see. A 'feather in the cap', and an anount of satisfaction and pride. To go on; We are dealing with a DC circuit, Ron. Let's use this simple circuit example; D cell flashlight battery, and flashlight bulb. (Pretend like the bulb only requires 1.5 volts DC, and not 3 Volts DC) Wire comes from Negative terminal at the bottom of the battery, and touches the Negative cylindrical part of the bulb. The Positive connection of bulb is at the bottom of it. This part touches the Positive terminal of the battery, at the top. We now have a DC circuit, with a Battery, and a flashlight bulb. Let's say there is no power going to the bulb. We would then perform a continuity test of the wire. Wire checks OK with continuity test? On to the bulb then. Bulb has a broken filament inside? Then the bulb will not pass the continuity test, and we know this is the problem. Ah, you say. A motherboard is different. Has ALL these components on it, and I don't know where to start. Massive amount of components that I have no working knowledge with, has gotten me freaked out. You tested the fuses Ron. You knew to check the Power On switch, with no advice. Just slow down, and don't overthink this. You are testing FROM the DC Power Jack. (I don't know how to enable bold letters, to emphasize my words. So I use capitals. Don't want you to think I'm 'yelling'. lol!) Ground point is as you have it. Wire soldered to Ground circuit trace hole. However, if possible I would use a slight;ly thicker (Heavier gauge) wire. I would also try to adapt an alligator clip, that would attach directly to the Negative probe lead of the multimeter, and clip to that wire. Remove hemostats, and all the extra junk. You are adding resistance, and this can lower the voltage. (Wuz a good job by the way. Not criticising) NOW..........the Positive probe lead is used to trace power AWAY from the DC Power Jack's positive circuit trace. (Power is connected to the motherboard, by the way. Yes, thoughts are rambling a wee bit) Look at the Positive circuit trace on the motherboard, both on top of the motherboard, and bottom of the motherboard. Start at the DC Power Jack. What electronic component seems to be next in line, away from the DC Power Jack; IN that Positive circuit trace; close to the DC Power Jack? Look at the top of the motherboard, and at the 091116-A3. See the Fairchild Semiconductor Industries (Name of manufacturer) - FDS6675BZ? That is a Power MOSFET. Should be a leg, (J-lead) that is in the Positive circuit trace, and another leg in a separate circuit trace, that will lead power to another electronic component. Power goes in to a Source pin (J-lead), and comes out on a Drain pin (J-lead) IS power coming out? Multimeter to DC Voltage. Yes? The next electronic component is Receiving power? Then go to the opposite side of this component, and check if power is coming Out of it. Means touch the Positive probe lead of the multimeter to to the other side of the component. You are checking to see if power is coming THROUGH that electronic component, and leading on to another circuit trace on the motherboard. That would mean checking the next electronic component in line. (I bet the $350 HP price tag to repair, now; is replacing the motherboard ) Use the links I gave to get information on testing a power MOSFET. You'll see the J-leads on the P.MOSFET, that are Source, and Drain. (And Gate)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_MOSFE... http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.... One P.MOSFET dropping the ball (Bad component) will not let power go through. Will not let power go on through it, to the next component. Going to replace a P.MOSFET?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NN7UGWYm... They cost about a buck. ($1.00 USD) Tried contacting owner of Mayoblogspot.com? He's a nice guy, and his electronics prowess makes me look like an infant. It is my belief that this gentleman can lead you further. "As I understand by tracing we are using the "continuity" function on a multimeter to establish if a connection exists SO Is not there a specific point that is identifiable on a photo that can be used and one either moves onwards from that point if continuity exists or work backwards if continuity does not exist .....Ron" Yes sir. That about summarizes it. Except there is a known point. A specific point. Let's say I have power AT the Positive circuit trace hole. I now check to see what electronic component, is immediately close to the DC Power Jack, and IN the Positive circuit trace, leading away from the DC Power Jack. Let's say the FDS6675BZ. J-lead that is IN the Positive circuit trace. Touch Positive probe lead of multimeter to it. IS there power at this point? Yes? Go on. IS there power on the other side of the FDS6675BZ? IS power coming AWAY from the FDS6675BZ? Yes? Go on. NO? Then this is the problem, or part of the problem. Replace, then go on. Power IS coming away from the FDS6675BZ? Then go to the next component in line, and see if it is RECEIVING power. Yes? IS power going away from it? No? then there is the problem, or one of them. Yes? It IS getting power, and power is going away from it? Then test the next component in line. You are heading towards the BIOS chipset. (By the way. What is the BIO manufacturer name on the BIOS chipset, and where on the motherboard is it located? Again; should have AMI, or Phoenix/Award on it. May be an Intel BIOS chipset, but I believe Intel is not heavy into that market, anymore. Don't quote me, though. Think you have the BIOS chipset located? Then type the number/letters in your browser search bar, and look. Don't really need specs, just need to know if it's a BIOS chipset ) Wish I was there Ron. So much easier to explain in person. Of course we are delving with board level repair, and diagnostics of electronic components, at the same time. Not going to be feasible posting needed info in a small area of a webpage, like this. You're going to have to teach yourself, by looking at information on the internet, about those individual electronic components, that you have no knowledge of. Once you understand what they do, then diagnosising the problem becomes easier. (Not indicating you have NO knowledge of electronic components. Just stating learn about the ones you do not) You can lay that motherboard on a wooden surface, or other non-static, and non-metal surface, and test it. Have it right out in front of you. You can connect the Processor, cooling system, and Ram Memory, if needed. When motherboard is fixed, then put it back in the case. Just a suggestion. Makes me wonder if there were just 'lemon' motherboards, and HP in it's wisdom decided not to fool with them. Not to have board level component replacing. Too much liability. Replaced two board level components, sent back to consumer, and two weeks later a different component fails. Nope. HP would just replace the entire motherboard, and not have these issues. (They hope! lol!) Unless there is a tech who posts on the internet, what the inherent problems are, with this particular motherboard, we may never know. Hp probably won't put out a Service Bulletin on it. Keep it swept under the mat, and hope they get phased out quickly. (Consumer just buys a different computer, and goes away with a bad taste in their mouth, for HP computer products; Or, is loyal, and sticks with HP, and a different newer version) You get that baby repaired Ron, post the repair in a Problem. Won't be a problem, but post it as one anyway. At least somewhere on the internet, the problem found will be posted. Looks like it would help a LOT of people. Regards, joecoolvette

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 17, 2013

    Joe ..I cannot get the Thermal assembly off?? Its stuck to the CPU yet swivels sideways ??? so I am afraid I might damage it without advice on a technique to remove it... Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 17, 2013

    Joe ..I have the thermal assembly off ...BUT I must have applied too much thermal paste and its actually been squeezed out over the edge of the CPU ..I have done my best to clean the excess but has it gone down into the socket ?? Well I do not know so clearly I need some advice on this....also I need to find a supplier of thermal tape before the thermal assembly is put back on.... NOW my eyes even with magnifying equipment are just not good enough ...in fact the only way I can identify parts etc is by using the photos I have taken....At this particular time I want to concentrate on the FDS6675BZ ....and try to get an understanding off the 8 legged mosfet as against the 3 leg one found on monitors...Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 17, 2013

    http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/H... All power removed, motherboard removed; use isopropyl alcohol, toothpicks/resistor wire,....what have you; clean that socket out. Know how it takes a lot of alcohol soaked Q-tips? Same thing here, plus the aforementioned items. Alcohol evaporates, and compressed air will speed it up.http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=... http://www.wtotoy.com/soldering-iron-sta... http://www.magnifiercity.com/Coil4220Adj... http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/semitest.ht...

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 18, 2013

    Joe Ok ..will do...In the meantime I purchased a second unit ...I really do not think its throwing money away and the price I paid was well below its parts value...apparantly its suspected the M/B on it is faulty also ....BUT I have spent a lot of time trying to understand the Power Mosfet .......Now would I not find it a lot simpler by telling me the leg of the mosfet I put my multimeter lead on to establish a trace in and then the leg to get the trace out or am I failing to understand what tracing is?? Cheers Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 18, 2013

    http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FD/ Scroll down, click on FDS6675BZ. It's a PDF document. See the White dot?http://www.badcaps.net/forum/forumdispla... Electronics Theory and Troubleshooting.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Field-effec... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JFET http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOSFET http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_MOSFE... http://www.4qdtec.com/mostest.html (GDS = Gate , Drain, Source ) Read all posts,http://mayohardware.blogspot.com/2010/04... Remove the name circuit trace from your mind, temporarily. To Trace = To Follow. To Track. Tracking voltage/s. From one component to another. The circuit traces on the motherboard are just glorified wires. Thinner, smaller, and hard to follow, but nonetheless just circuit paths.

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 23, 2013

    Joe..Sorry I have not been well so have been absent....I am still struggling with what I actually have to do and maybe its beyond me ...so lets try again....I connect the black negative lead on my Digital MM to negative or ground on M/B and I trace away from the DC Socket with my red or positive lead......Should my MM be set at continuity or something else as I presume we are looking for some sort of reading on the MM......and of course there are Mosfets ...not like a resistor or capacitor but I just cannot understand what leg of the mosfet is crucial as regards an onward trace....Trying to read all these links is useless ...Its like tryng to read Chinese ..unless one has the basics its just a waste of time.....Tomorrow I will make another enquiry re getting the CPU checked .... Thanks Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 24, 2013

    Digital MM should be set to DC Voltage. Negative black probe lead connected to the DC Power Jack ground on the motherboard. As stated previously remove all that extra stuff, use a single wire from motherboard to Negative probe lead. Get an alligator clip that fits on the probe lead, if possible. I also would recommend a little larger gauge wire. The Positive probe lead touches the leg of the component; that is closet to the DC Power Jack / Positive circuit trace hole. The leg that get's power will BE in the same circuit trace that leads back to the Positive circuit trace hole, where the DC Power Jack was. The circuit traces lead like a map. Each one is a trail. Testing Power MOSFET'shttp://www.ehow.com/how_7600377_test-mos... FDS6675BZ Scroll this page towards the bottom. (7/8ths?) Scroll down. Slow down when you see listings starting with FDS. Now look for FDS6675BZ.pdf Image of Power MOSFET, (FDS6675BZ) Look at the S's, D's, and G. Source, Drain, and Gate. But enough of this for the moment. I jumped off with looking at that P.MOSFET so much, I lost track! ha! Looking back at your motherboard photos / Bottom of motherboard / DC Power jack circuit trace area. (SURE would be easier if I had that motherboard in hand) The circuit trace that leads away from the Positive circuit trace hole; for the DC Power Jack. It's a small square area with the right top corner cut off. Leads through a circuit trace up to PR165. [Believe Resistor ] Now.......look at the other side of the motherboard, (Top actually), and what component does PR165 feed power to? I think it feeds to PF1 in the other side. The Top side. LF10A. IF this holds true, is that LittleFuse 10 Amp fuse getting power? What does LF10A feed? Is it getting power? And so on, and so on. (Don't forget that the motherboard is coated with clear see-through plastic. You have to get through the plastic to touch the copper traces.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 24, 2013

    Geez, get ahead of myself. You are checking for Power through the motherboard at present. Not continuity. Power to motherboard from AC adapter. That's what I meant about removing extra stuff. Been a little under the weather myself.

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 24, 2013

    Joe...Lets address Mosfets...I basicly understand a 3 legged mosfet ( a drain ,a soutce and a gate) but 8 legs?? 4 drains / 3 sources and a gate ... is the principle the same ?? ...its a switch OK?? operated by power applied to the gate which connects the drain and the source ?? so what is the output.. Now I have to emphasise I can only do this via photos....unfortunately Its the only way I can see what to do...... Now tracing ..In My opinion on the top side I cannot get a connection via a trace ...only via a component ...under the board Yes I could get a connection to a copper trace...... I will take some more photos and see what I get and hopefully we can then work through this.. Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 25, 2013

    http://s1172.beta.photobucket.com/user/h... Joe I created a Top Library and a bottom library of new photos but they are no where near the quality I have here in the originals....Hk

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 27, 2013

    Joe....Would a Schematic be of use ..Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 27, 2013

    Would it ever!

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 27, 2013

    Joe...The M/B has DAOZN1MB6CO REV:C printed on the top and bottom and when I Googled this it bought up several hits ...now I do not know the importance of them but one...http://notebookschematic.com/?tag=daozn1... seems as if it could be the one....Ron

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 27, 2013

    Joe... I have also downloaded a PDF File from another site ... With what I think is a second HP All in one 214A arriving in the next few days and now your reply ...Can you help me ascertain that this is indeed a schematic of the M/B and once we have verified it best we can ..I will buy it unless I can find a free one...Now a schematic as I understand will enable certain "test points" to be worked out to actually find the breakdown on the board....Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 28, 2013

    http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/docum... Motherboard Description: Made by Quanta. Schematic: Quanta Computer Inc. / Project ZN1. Chipset: AMD M780G. Scematic: RS780MN. (AMD M780x) Processor upgrade information: Socket type: AM2. Schematic: AM2. Memory upgrade information: DDR2 Sdram. Also there are two Ram Memory slots. Schematic: DDRII. Two ram memory sockets. Yes, I concur that this is the Block Diagram for your motherboard. The part you need is the DC - DC Circuit -> SCHEMATIC. Looking at the ad, it looks as though you are going to get the Block Diagram, that you CAN click on! I don't understand. Is it THAT Block Diagram, or do you indeed get a schematic? Their interpertation may BE that a Block Diagram IS a schematic. So you pay $10.50 USD, for what you CAN see already? Plus; is Quanta going to release schematics? I have me doubts. SO.........is PR165 getting power?

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 28, 2013

    Joe..You have completely lost me...I cannot find PR165...and I still do not know what Multi Meter setting you are referring to ....Is it DC V ?? and if so what setting.....Ron

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 29, 2013

    A) Yes it is DCV. DC Voltage. Direct Current Voltage. This is a DC circuit you are foolijg with, not an AC circuit. (It is Alternating Current coming into your home, or business. The AC adapter that you have converts the high AC electricity, 100 to 240 Volts, down to low DC Voltages for the computer ) Negative (Black) probe lead of multimeter to Black NEG hole on multimeter. Positive (Red) probe lead plugs into red hole on multimeter, that has DCV next to it. Function knob settings vary from multimeter to multimeter, due to all of the varations of models, and technology. Multimeter function knob should be turned to DCV, or DC Voltage. If just a symbol, the symbol is a dotted line over a solid line. IF, there is more than one DC Voltage scale, set it to the 0-50 Volt scale. 0 to 50 Volts DC. You are testing under 20 Volts anyway. Yes. I bet you can't find PR165. I have posted where it is twice. Look at the solder connection side for the DC Power Jack. That would be the Top of the motherboard, and the Top of the motherboard faces the LCD screen. Look at the Positive pin solder joint, for the DC Power Jack. Circuit trace around it looks like a small square/rectangle with one corner cut of. Then leads away using a small thin circuit trace and turns to the Right. It connects to one leg of PR165. IS that LEG of PR165 getting power? IS power going away from it? Look at the Top of the motherboard. I THINK LF 10A is PR165.

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 29, 2013

    Joe My email.....Hi ..You advertise online a Schematic for a HP DAOZN1MB6CO Mother Board ...Now before I order it from you ..Does this 41 page PDF contain a true schematic that I can use for trying to find the problem with my board ..Thanks ...REPLY.....Yes, correct schematic, full pages : 41 Thank you................................SO I presume I have to go by their word.....Hk

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 30, 2013

    Joe ..Its that hot here my brain is fryed ...I am about to pay for the schematic but I see it is a REV:B while mine is a REV:C .......I wonder if this really matters ? Why do I feel uneasy here ? Is it because I cannot find where these people are ? I have asked but they have not addressed the question.....In the meantime you will have to think how I can get the PDF file over to you once it arrives ??... Thanks

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 30, 2013

    Joe...OK...MMD set to DC 20V.....Black lead is connected to ground wire by alligator clipand Red Lead to LF10A > out......I hope thats what you mean and there is nothing?? IE MM gives a reading of 0.00 ....with the red lead taken off I get -0.00 ..If you require photo just ask..Thanks HK...

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 30, 2013

    What about Positive (Red) lead of MM to the IN side of LF10A? I want to know if it is Getting power first. That's a LittleFuse 10 Amp fuse.

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 31, 2013

    Joe..I would have to give way to your superior knowledge but I cannot understand what I am doing here???? I can understand a multi meter getting a resistance or a continuity reading but how does it get a reading carrying out your instructions on a unpowered motherboard...Sorry I just do not get it...Hk

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 31, 2013

    A) Superior knowledge + joecoolvette? NO. Not hardly. B) It has been my understanding that since Jan.12, 2012; "Joe...To be safe It seems I have to reassemble the whole unit to test if it powers up.... so I will solder wires to the positive and negative pins on the M/B ( where the socket was) and put it together again (repasting the CPU etc) and then apply power and see what happens ..Ron" ,that you have been providing power to the motherboard, and we were testing to if components are blown/bad. Lol! I'm trying to trace power, you're trying to run a continuity test. Let's go for power now. You indicated in a previous post that you had tested all fuses. (SMD) LF10A is one. Is it getting power, and is power going away from it? What is the next component in line? In the Output leg of the LF10A.....the circuit trace it is in.....is the power TO the next component?

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 31, 2013

    Would be helpful if I knew how to spell! "Is LF10A getting power? Is there power on the output side of it? There is a circuit trace the output leg of the LF10A is in. Look for the next component away from LF10A, that is in that Same copper circuit trace. If the Output leg of LF10A is getting power, then the next component in line; in that same circuit trace; should be getting power also. NOW......is there power coming away from that component? (Circuit Trace. Also known as Signal Trace. Using the acid wash method as an example, (There are many), the entire motherboard is coated with a layer of copper. Areas are masked off that are NOT to be removed. The acid wash removes all unmasked areas, leaving circuit traces, ('Thin copper wires'), behind. The motherboard is usually a laminate. Sometimes there are copper layers in-between, that have been formed into circuit traces also.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Printed_Cir... Manufacturing <-

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 31, 2013

    Joe....I am atarting ro wonder if you understand that the M/B is out of the unit...there is no power ...unless it gets power from fresh air... Hk

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 31, 2013

    OH, I\'m starting to understand now..........1) I just woke up to the fact you are setting that motherboard, on what looks to be a bed. This = NO. I just keep ASS-U-ME-ing. You are supposed to have that motherboard sitting on a wood table, or at least cardboard from a box. You SHOULD be wearing an ESD wrist strap, and have it\'s alligator clip attached to a good ground source. A Processor is the MOST susceptible hardware component, to Static shock. Video Cable isn\'t long enough to reach LCD screen? Take the LCD screen out, lay on cardboard, and connect it to the Video Cable. With No processor, or ram memory, the most you can hope for is the BIOS Setup screen. DON\'T think about that right now. You are testing to see if components get power. The component that RECEIVES power, but does not have power going away from it; is the bad component. Replace. See if the next component in that copper circuit trace on the motherboard, is receiving power. We are at the basic starting point right now, of the DC Power Jack\'s positive pin solder hole, and leading away from it. To me PR165, which I think is that LF10A, is the first component to receive power.

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Jan 31, 2013

    Joe ..I have had all this before ....Let me explain again.....The M/B is completely removed from everything ...no power no nothing???? JUST a motherboard with the video card. and CPU BUT no thermal IE FAN etc ......so hanging the M/B from the roof is not going to get power to it so this has to be established .or else I am going round in circles...Just explain to me how you want everything setup ....I should explain that at this stage I have no thermal tape ?? Do not even know if I can buy it??? and Finally I am waiting for your answer regarding the Specifications sheet IE re REV:B as agains REV:C .....It should only take minutes for me to get it (paying and emailing) but I tell you I am going to be upset if its not what is recognised as a specifications document....Hk

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Feb 03, 2013

    Out of curiosity, do you happen to READ what I type? A LONG time ago I stated take the motherboard OUT. We are performing tests on the motherboard, and need BOTH sides. Cut a cardboard box, and old pair of jammies, or the hide of a \'Roo, and lay the motherboard on it. (Inside of the hide. The outside has hair, that could cause Static, lol! ARRRGH, wait! DON\'T use a pair of old jammies either (pajamas) They can cause Static too!) And YES, You could hang it from the roof. I would hang from the inside though, in case it rains. Be pretty hard to get both multimeter probes to touch though, lol! The motherboard would just keep swingin\' away! Go ahead, and leave CPU in, and graphics card. Thermal Paste to CPU, and for now Thermal Paste applied on both sides of old Thermal Pad, and reinstall it. You are just trying to take up the space, in-between the small metal plate of the Cooling Tube, and top of graphics chipset. Would be nice if you had a piece of copper sheeting, or aluminum, that you could use in place of the old Thermal Pad. Apply Thermal Paste to both sides of copper, or aluminum small plate. (1-1/2 inches x 1-1/2 inches size, or so) Ram Memory also. NO harddrive attached. Video Cable won\'t reach from motherboard to LCD screen? Take the LCD screen out. Lay next to motherboard, and connect Video Cable. Hook up AC adapter to motherboard. Plug into power. NOW.................is PR165 getting power? Is power going away from PR165. Keep tracking the power. Keep following it. When power doesn\'t come AWAY from a component, THAT component is BAD. Now......................what part of this do you not understand?http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/docum... Motherboard Description: Made by Quanta. Schematic: Quanta Computer Inc. / Project ZN1. Chipset: AMD M780G. Scematic: RS780MN. (AMD M780x) Processor upgrade information: Socket type: AM2. Schematic: AM2. Memory upgrade information: DDR2 Sdram. Also there are two Ram Memory slots. Schematic: DDRII. Two ram memory sockets. Yes, I concur that this is the Block Diagram for your motherboard. The part you need is the DC - DC Circuit -> SCHEMATIC. Looking at the ad, it looks as though you are going to get the Block Diagram, that you CAN click on! I don\'t understand. Is it THAT Block Diagram, or do you indeed get a schematic? Their interpertation may BE that a Block Diagram IS a schematic. So you pay $10.50 USD, for what you CAN see already? Plus; is Quanta going to release schematics? I have me doubts. SO.........is PR165 getting power? I only know what they have printed....same as you. Why would I have anymore knowledge than you about it, if the ONLY information available is what you and I can read, and it IS ONLY that printed material that is available. To YOU, to ME, to the Queen of England, and all those \'gators out in the bush of Australia. (Or are they Croc\'s?) In otherwords, I don\'t know Ron. Only have access to same info as you. On another note, two questions; One, has all the guns been taken away from Australians? Was there a such man as Mick Dundee, and has he been killed? (Supposed story is the man wouldn\'t give up his guns. If so I commend him. I\'m a combat \'Nam vet) Is this product support related? No. Just curious, as the world news media only lets you know what the Bilderberg group/New World Order/Illuminati wants you to know. Too much? Don\'t answer then. I ain\'t scared of no ghosts! Lol! (Ghostbusters)

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Feb 03, 2013

    That's Ram Memory installed also. NOT apply Thermal Paste to it, lol!

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 04, 2013

    Joe..Yes I do try and read what you type ? But I struggled with your Canadian terminologies plus the extreme weather conditions we have ...Today its raining and the temperature is down to 16 degrees and already I feel my brain working better...your advice on a Alloy or copper spacer is very welcome ..I have got brass sheeting bought from a model shop some time ago??.Only one very small thermal pad is lost (I would never have touched it if I had known what it was)..... I will have to put up a proper table and set everything up as you describe ... Regards the schematic....as I posted earlier ..I emailed them for clarification and received a reply that it was a document that contained the schematic ...I can email them again ?? I still do not know where they are located but they have to email me the PDF document once they receive my payment ..There is also a safeguard for me here as I think I could cancel the payment if it turns out it is not what they say it is...Cheers Hk

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Feb 04, 2013

    American. Right in the middle of America. 16 degrees we assume to be Cesuis? About 61 degrees Fahrenheit, then. It was 16 degrees Fahrenheit a few days ago, ha! -8 Cesuis. I gotta tell ya.........Thermal Pads are J-U-N-K, anyway. If you can get a decent squeeze of Cooling Tube metal pad TO graphics chipset; with small piece of copper sheet, that would be infinitely better than a Thermal Pad. PLUS of course, make sure there is Thermal Paste on both sides. (All sides, really. Bottom of small metal plate on Cooling Tube, top of added small copper sheet, bottom of small copper sheet; top of graphics chipset. BE adequate, but do not use too much. I guess we'll just have to wait, and see if it IS a schematic, and what it brings. IN THE meantime...............is PR165 getting power? (Don't make me 'swim the pond', fight crocs, and have to come down there. Lol! )

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Feb 04, 2013

    What the heck happened to the L? Celsuis. Sheesh!

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 04, 2013

    Joe..L??? The heat and sunshine is returning ....Maybe tomorrow ...Any Polar Bears where you are?? Will try and get some copper tomorrow ...Hk

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Feb 04, 2013

    First 2 Celsuis didn't have an L. "16 degrees we assume to be Cesuis? About 61 degrees Fahrenheit, then. It was 16 degrees Fahrenheit a few days ago, ha! -8 Cesuis." (Minus 8 degrees Celsuis) Yes. We HAVE Polar Bears................................in the ZOO! Lol!

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 04, 2013

    Joe..Thats where the crocodiles (that you keep going on about) are here ..in the zoo's.....Whats Fahrenheit .? are you still on imperial measurements?? Hk

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Feb 05, 2013

    Yer cutting down on me fantasies about Australia, ha! I thought you were in the 'Outback', and crocs run across yer front porch at noon! Lol! What ya talkin' about Imperial? They've been trying to 'introduce' the Metric system in America since 1970. HELLO, we ain't changing! Everybody else can keep the Metric system. I hear American's make a poor impression overseas. Sorry about that, but you gotta remember most of them were born with a silver spoon in their keister, and are not a good representation of Americans. Ha! (Went up to 50 degrees today. YES, Fahrenheit)

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 06, 2013

    Joe..I got caught out by our national day yesterday when I ran out of Transfer Paste so now I am biking up to try and buy some ?? Exercise for my diabetes....Hk

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 06, 2013

    We have a holiday on National Day???

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Feb 07, 2013

    How far ya gotta ride? Diabetes. That su-cks. Lucky here so far. OK. Awaiting thremal transfer compound.

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 08, 2013

    Joe..Do not know if this photo is any good as I had to lower the resolution that much to be able to post it so will put the original up on Photobucket ...I presume this is what you mean ..I knew the Choysa Tea would come in handy for something IE to put the fan on top of ?? So please advise if this was not the sort of setup you were thinking of ...Hk?

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 08, 2013

    OK..I have put a photo up in Library HP Test Bench ..you will see that the M/B is on stilts on a piece of wood...I just cannot see my being able to set this up in the way I think you want it set up..I can power the M/B and fan up but there is no way I can actually connect anything to the main unit set up like this ...SO can the M/B and fan be powered up as it is and I can at least get a reading from that PR??? that you want ...Hkup

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 08, 2013

    Joe Surely I can Connect the DC power unit up and get a reading for you pre PR??? and After PR??? with my multimeter..Hk

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 08, 2013

    Joe..I have actually connected the power unit ro the ground and positive wires hanging from the M/B and what does not seem right to me is that with the MM set at 20V DC I get a reading of 2.31 ?????? IS THAT 2.32V if so surely there is something really wrong with the Power unit ...Hk

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 08, 2013

    Joe..The Power Unit is giving out 19.78V so what I am going to do is solder the wires from the MB onto the original plug to enable me to get some power connection to the MB instead of relying on kangaroo clips....which are probably all drugged up? Hk

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Feb 08, 2013

    All drugged up...............geez you guys got some sayings. (I was gonna go down to the 'watering hole', but me auto was all drugged up. Hey,.........I think I learned a new saying............"Don't step over there, or you're gonna get all drugged up!" )

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Feb 08, 2013

    WHERE............are you reading 2.31/2.32 Volts DC?

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 08, 2013

    Joe....Don't you read the news??? "Kangaroos ....All drugged up" ...they go together ?? Lance Armstrong will have nothing on whats going to come out in the next few weeks....FORGET 2.31V ....bad reading I have new readings coming up after I wake up properly having watched cricket ...Do you know cricket ??? Best sport in the world ...Hk

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Feb 08, 2013

    Naa, the only crickets we got around here are in the backyard, and occasionally the basement. Lol! Here we have kangeroo courts, kangeroo government, and Kangeroo's in zoo's. Suspecf the former are drugged up, doubt it on the latter.

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 09, 2013

    Joe..Just to clear up the banter..I am Not in Australia ...Close but not Australia...Anyway I have actually done your test ...The DC Power Transformer is producing 19.77V>>>>and 19.77v is going into and out off.....LF10A.....so now I have to try and work out the next point to test.....hk

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 09, 2013

    Joe...I have just processed the payment etc for the schematic ....so if they are awake where ever they are they may email the file soon ...With a schematic I presume it means we will soon have this sorted out ??(if it is a schematic )...Hk

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Feb 09, 2013

    We're not 'out of the water yet'. We'll see what the 'schematic/s' show. LF10A has power? K, now we're on a 'roll', lol! Just think. You get good at this, you may be doing it in the side for $$$$. Hope so.

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 09, 2013

    Joe ..I have it ...any Idea on how I get it to you...Hk

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 09, 2013

    Joe ..I know its deception but I wonder if I put a jpg extension on it ...would it upload?? Hk

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Feb 09, 2013

    dunno

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 10, 2013

    Ok ..change extension to pdf//and advise


  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 10, 2013

    Joe ..Does this work ?? go to this link where I think you can download the file ..make sure you change the flv extension to pdf....http://www.fileswap.com/dl/D9AWV3EOmv/HP...

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 10, 2013

    Joe..If this works ..from now on I will do photos this way as they lose quality using photobucket..Hk

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Feb 10, 2013

    Apparently not intelligent enough. I removed flv, and put pdf in it's place. URL in address bar, and hit Enter key. This is what I get,http://www.fileswap.com/dl/D9AWV3EOmv/HP... I click on Slow Download, and get a small window with -> Opening HP Pavilion MS21 (ZN1).flv When I download it, (Save File), and go to open it, there is nothing to choose from to open it. I have an FLV Player. Awaiting instructions, I know the problem is on my end.

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 11, 2013

    Joe ..Sorry my fault ...download the link and you will have a file named ......HP Pavilion MS21 (ZN1).flv...........I presume you have it already........just rename the file to... HP Pavilion MS21 (ZN1).pdf.........its a Pdf file ?? Once you have it sorted please let me know as I will remove it from public access....I found PR165 on page 33.....now to find LF10A...Hk

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 11, 2013

    Joe..Just a question re my Gigabyte 1156 MB .....If I can get a schematic for it ...would it be invaluable in finding out where the problem is on it...thanks hk

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 11, 2013

    Joe...that fuse is IE10A......A find on the pdf file comes up with nothing ?? Maybe you can find it? Hk

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 11, 2013

    Joe..Sorry..I presume IE10A is specified in the schematic as PF1 cause thats what it is specified as on the circuit board print..Hk

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Feb 11, 2013

    I downloaded it. Renamed the extension to .pdf, and THAT didn't work, lol! Came up with HP Pavilion MS21(ZN1).pdf .flv This = No. You're gonna hafta guide me like a child on this one.

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 11, 2013

    Joe...Here it is ....The DC Socket to PF1 ( IE10A) then traces to the Mosfet ..I think...?? Hk

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 11, 2013

    Joe..Sent you my previous message and did not see your reply...Give me a few minutes..I will clear the flv and replace it with the PDF and send you the link... Hk

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 11, 2013

    Joe ..Please Try this and advise...http://www.fileswap.com/dl/2iJKUI6xPU/HP...

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 11, 2013

    Joe ..I did precheck everything ....on the flv file did you click rename or F2 which puts the name in a "box" ...one then just deletes the flv extension and types in pdf .....then OK's it.....One does get a message warning about changing extension but in this case one would disregard it ...However I cleared the flv and replaced it with the original pdf ...as I understand the link I have sent you will download the file ...HK

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 11, 2013

    Joe...I have zipped some of the original photos for you ....download using this link I thnk??? http://www.fileswap.com/dl/tRgdKc8PfE/Fo... these should be far clearer than those on Photobucket....Hk

  • Hairy Kiore
    Hairy Kiore Feb 13, 2013

    Joe..Have you disapppeared? Hk

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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