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Posted on Jan 19, 2009
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30 amp breaker trips intermittently

In my mother in laws mobil home, she has a 30 amp breaker that trips intermittently. The curcuit goes to a single heating element in her furnace. I have measured the voltage drop across the heating element and it is comparable to the element next to it on a different circuit. I have swapped the breaker with another one in the panel. I have seen the breaker trip after I disconnected the two wires at the furnace. I then disconnected the white wire from the breaker output and it still blew, then I disconnected the black wire from the CB output and it didn't blow. The furnace ran fine all night last night then the ckt breaker tripped this morning. I am stumped...any suggestions?

Bill McMullan
Waxahachie, TX.

  • Hayward Cowan May 11, 2010

    When the unit is running grab the cable where it comes out of the panel box;does it feel hot? If it does you have excessive resistance.

    Disconnet the wire from the breaker and scrape the surface of the wire with a knife. Does the copper scrape off exposing an aluminum core? If it does replace the wire.

    With the power off and the wire disconnected from the breaker and the furnace, measure the resisitance from end to end in the wire.

    In a house trailer the run can't be very long so you should only see a couple ohms resistance in any wire.

    Please let me know what you find?

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  • Master 10,865 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 21, 2009
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It sounds like this circuit breaker is worn out and needs to be replaced. good luck

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There is the liquid seeping out of the breakers, it is not water the box is dry and it feels like an oil of some kind. breakers are working and are not hot. i have not seen this before. what is it and what...

It is oil. It's used to extinguish the arc.

When a circuit breaker trips, there is an Arc of electricity made inside the breaker, due to the contacts.
The contacts are instantly brought away from each other.

There are three methods employed to extinguish that arc.

[Extinguish the arc. Non-technical explanation. With out some medium to extinguish the arc produced inside, it would go Z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-zap, instead of z-zap]

Oil, Air, and Sulfur Hexafluoride.

So yes, as long as the circuit breaker doesn't have to trip, and produce the arc inside, it is a working circuit breaker.

Is it a safe unit?

NO

The method employed to extinguish the arc if the breaker trips is leaking out.

Replace all breakers that are doing this.

Average cost for a GE single-pole 15, or 20 Amp is around $11 here. A few dollars more for 30 and 40 Amp, but usually double-pole breakers are used for 30, and 40 Amp.
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Can we change a 15 amp breaker out with a 30 amp to avoid constant tripping in a mobile home?

You can but the mobile home may catch on fire, the reason that there is only a 15A circuit breaker is that the wiring is only able to handle 15A maybe plug some stuff into a outlet on another circuit
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I am visiting my mother in law. She has a circuit

what else is on circuit with microwave and as to grafted is that a hard wired hook up if so breaker may be to low depending on how old the unit is but before replacing it i would check microwave draw and find out if anything else is on circuit
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Washer starts to spin up then trips breaker

Good day,
Not the transmission. The motor could be stalled by a defective transmission, but the motor would trip off on it's own internal long before the home breaker.
Sounds like a short in the motor itself. But ......
There is Murphy's law.
Your home breaker might have become so weak, it IS the problem.
You really need an amp probe to check the washers draw, at the circuit breaker panel.

If you cannot do that and are comfortable dealing with electrical, you can swap equal value breakers, to be sure.
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Two 15 amp arc fault breakers installed on two adjacent circuits. One works fine - does not trip. The afi breaker beside it trips as soon as it is flipped on. We tried switching circuits, but both circuits...

It's possible that the first breaker that you said does not trip - it could be that breaker is failing to trip on a bad circuit. That is, it could be you have a bad circuit but that first breaker is not detecting it and pretends everything is OK. If your new breaker trips on the first breaker's circuit, the curcuit it probably bad and the breaker in not working properly. The most common problem for failed circuits is a stray ground wire in a box somewhere in the curcuit resting against a hot or neutral wire. You'll have to take apart every connection on that curcuit to find it. Not fun.
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I'm not sure that swapping out the breakers to higher rated ones will give you a solution so I'll throw in 2 cents to see if my advice holds true. Let's start by asking this. Is the appliance "rated" at 220 volts at 30 amps per leg. I assume this from your post as to what it has been rated. Next - How long is the "run" of wire from the junction box to the outlet where the appliance plugs in? This usually does not matter in most households but if the run is of significant length it may need a larger gage wire to support the current draw of the appliance. Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, are the lugs and wire connectors tight at the outlet, the plug, and the breaker box. A loose connection will ramp up the current fast. This is assuming the first two items were met. Tell me if any of this helps and we'll work it out from there.
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Thermostat

Is this a new installation? If so the elements may be pulling more load than the circuit can handle. That or you have a weak breaker. See what size the breaker is I.E. 20, 30, whatever, and see how may watts the heater is making. Divide that into volts (ohms law) and that should give you the amp draw. If its higher than the number on the breaker, then its overloading. If its lower but the breaker still trips, then change it.
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