Question about Lomo Oktomat 35mm Film Camera

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Image Problems Hello! I've had my oktomat camera for about 2 years and lately, everytime I take a picture and get it developed the first row on my picture is completely blacked out. so the picture is just a black row on top and actually imaged on the second row. what's wrong with my camera and how can i fix it?

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Re: Image Problems

The film is pulled by gears as u click and gear tooth broke inside camera body causes weird things like u said and then catches to move around to get the clich again. dont know if gear is plastic or metal I read on internet some metal gear replacements....try looking there. really not sure but i think im in the ball park. CrazyLarry

Posted on Jun 27, 2007

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Area of film missing/not exposed

I had exactly the same accident and problem. Half the film did not print. The problem was the top roller. This in fact squeezes the developer evenly down the film as it moves up through and out of the camera. A plastic grommet holds each end of the roller bar in position. This ensures an even distribution of developer. One of the grommets had moved very very slightly out of position. I used a small screw driver to push it back into the correct position. The film now prints perfectly.

Jan 26, 2013 | FUJIFILM Instax 210 Film Camera

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Blank roll of film

Two possible problems:

1. Film did not wind on. 2. Shutter not opening.

Easy to test with camera back open. Load a film and fire the shutter a few times each time with winding on, to see if film is winding correctly, at the same time you should be able notice if the shutters are firing, eight of them in succession makes a bit of noise.

Nov 09, 2010 | Lomo Oktomat 35mm Film Camera

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Developed film pictures have black around the edges

My guess would be that whatever lens your using is causing that. The black edges are basically caused because the lens may not be fit the camera correctly, causing the camera to "see" part of the lens itself when taking a photo.

May 03, 2010 | Pentax Instant Cameras

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The winding mechanism on my oktomat is jammed how can I fix it?

First, are you absolutely sure that you haven't just reached the end of the film roll?

There are no repair manuals for this model. It's designed to last for about 12 rolls of film before it's worn out like other Lomo's in their "toy camera" range.

It's very cheaply designed and constructed and was never intended to be repaired, so if your camera is still under warranty (regardless of how many rolls of film you've shot) then make a claim. The plastic gears inside are like those on all Lomo toy cameras: awful. They may as well have just made them from cheese...

If the gears are not stripped you can try brute force by slapping the camera down onto a hard surface a few times to try and unjam the mechanism, although it risks making the fault worse. But as the camera isn't working what do you have to lose? The same applies to trying to dismantle the camera to find the fault, but you'll have to work out how to do so for yourself. Most current Lomos are simply clipped together with a minimum of screws.

If you're not covered by the warranty and cannot repair yours, then you'll need to consider whether to invest another £40 on a camera which really shouldn't be selling for more than £10 maximum.

Mar 17, 2010 | Lomo Oktomat 35mm Film Camera

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When I get my prints developed from my Fisheye 2 camera, all the images are to one side. The fisheye image has a chunk missing from it and appears like a 3/4 circle, with about 1/4 of the print just...

Check the negatives: you should clearly see that the images are complete, although where they've been cut into strips it's possible that the cut may have gone through an image. If there are very few complete circular images, then you have a camera problem and problems are not at all rare on Lomo cameras which are in general of absolutely dreadful quality.

if you can eliminate the camera as the cause, then the fault is with the photographic processing service. The process is mostly automated, and the machine which makes the prints from the negatives expects to find nice regular rectangular images with neat straight unexposed lines between them. Your FishEye 2 produces circular images instead with wide hourglass-shaped unexposed partitions and so it's confused the machine.

If you've used an ultra-budget postal processing service then they might agree to reprint for you but will usually (and entirely fairly) point to a clause along the lines of "at these prices, this service is for regular 35mm prints only". In future always use local processing shops and tell them clearly what to expect as they can manually intervene and ensure that the prints come out correctly.

This should solve your problem, if so please rate my answer.

Feb 23, 2010 | Lomo Fisheye 35mm Film Camera

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Dear sirs,went to alaska & took pictures with,how do I transfer them to the computer?thank you bill johnson.

When you get them developed ask for the cd option.

Most film developers offer the photos on cd option from regular film for a small extra cost.

If you have already had them developed, you can take the negatives back to the developer, and they can still do the cd transfer.

Otherwise you will need a scanner to put your pictures on your computer. The scanners cost $60 and up, and take hours of your time,

Good Luck!

Jan 30, 2010 | Instant Cameras

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It's quite complicated to explain in detail, and there are a number of different processes, but I can start by saying how the essential chemistry of B&W processing works.

A film emulsion contains tiny crystals of a silver halide (Silver chloride, bromide etc.) contained in a layer of gelatin, coated on a plastic backing. Silver halides are sensitive to light.

There are other layers such as an anti-reflection layer behind the light sensitive layer to prevent light being scattered back to produce a 'halo' around bright areas, (Anti-halation layer) and a scratch resistant layer on the front.

Additionally dye chemicals are added which enhance the halides sensitivity to red light, to which otherwise it would be insensitive. These are known as dye sensitisers.

Only imprefections in the crystals are actually sensitive, as these contain silver ions which are not fully bound to the halogen. When a photon interacts with the crystal near the sensitve site an electron is released which can reduce the ion to a single atom of silver.

These single atoms ar enot enough to produce a visible image, but comprise a latent image within the emulsion. In order to make the latent image visible we must amplify the latent image in some way. This is done chemically by a process known as development.

There are a number of chemicals formulations which can be used as developers (including urine!), but all are chemical reducing agents. (Opposite of oxidising agents.) These convert the silver halide to metallic silver.

It so happens that for many reducing agents metallic silver acts as a catalyst, so where there is silver the reaction proceeds faster than where there is not. Of course as more silver is produced the greater the catalytic action, so the develoment process accellerated as it progesses.

This forms clumps of silver around the original silver atoms. These clumps consist of very small grains of silver, finer than any powder and these appear black. These form a negative image. (Black where light fell on the film.)

(These tiny grains are not what photgraphers refer to as 'grain'. In fact the 'grain' in a photograph is more to do with the distribution of development sites, and the random nature of the arrival of individual photons.)

Most developers are realtively benign chemicals but some are toxic and carcinogenic. These are not used much these days but are still availble.

Unfortunatley this is quite a slow process, and there is a tendency to also reduce unexposed halides somewhat. This produces an overall 'fog' to the immage. To minimise this and speed the process up an accellerator is usally added.

Accellerators are alkalis. Some formulas use quite strong alkalis like sodium hydroxide, but others use rather innoccuos substances like borax.

Development continues until the developing chemical is removed or the chemicals are exhausted. If the film is developed too much than the silver clumps begin to overlap and you get a completly black area. Further development does not make those areas any blacker even if more silver is produced!

This process is of course conducted entirely in darkness.

Most formulations use both developer and acellerator together, but sometimes these are used separatley to give better controll of the negative density. Here the emulsion is soaked in the developer, and transferred to the accellerator bath. This limits the amount of developer in the negative so heavily exposed areas do not develop as much. This allow a scene with a wider range of brightness to be recorded.

(Note that the film itself can record a much wider range in the latent image, than can be developed.)

Normally development is stopped by immersing the film in an acidic bath, which reacts with the accellerator as well as washing away developer.

The anti-halation layer dyes are usually washed out during develpment.

Of course this still leaves undeveloped silver halides in the emulsion. These are removed by fixing the image.

This is necesary for two reasons. First in a film the halide crystals have a whilte milky appearance. You need light to shine through a film duing enlargement, so that's no good. Alxo the halide will eventually turn black on exposure to light.

Fixing the image usually is a matter of washing the negative in a soultion of sodium thiosuphate. (Comonly called 'hypo'.) Silver halides are only very poorly soluble in water, but sodium thiosulhpates affinity for soft metal ions overcomes this reaction with the silver, to produce sodium halide. If this is silver chloride you get salt!)

To get a print, you expose paper treated on one surface with an emulsion, to a projected image of the enlarger and develop that in a similar way.

So there you have it. Color is a bit more complicated involving layer with different sesitivity to colored light, and dyes which are produced by the action of delvelopers.

For more details start with

Jan 13, 2009 | Fuji Endeavor 200ix Zoom APS Point and...

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Rewinding film at end of roll

Try looking here:

Sep 03, 2008 | Lomo Oktomat 35mm Film Camera

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Bad film or Camera.

Return the camera to the company and see if you can get a return or at least an even exchange. Get another roll of film and shoot casual stuff. Never test a camera, film or digital for the first time at any mission critical event like an anniversary or wedding. It can lead to potential disaster. Shoot the roll with the new camera if you got it exchanged and then have it developed at Walmart or wherever is cheapest. If it works, keep it. If not, don't. BTW, if you are ever going to have to shoot a wedding or anything ever again with a film point and shoot and don't want hassles, just get disposable cameras. They are designed to work out of the box with no problems. They are of higher quality then most people think for image qulity.

Polaroid used to make good instant cameras, but their 35mm film and digital stuff I wouldn't trust as much. It's not the real Polaroid which can makes only instant film gear. . It's another company using the Polaroid brand name to try and make otherwise generic stuff look better then it is. Their digital cameras have a poor reputation. I don't think their non instant film cameras are much better. Good luck.

Apr 08, 2008 | Instant Cameras

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35 Year ols Camera doesn't work right?...

is it b&w film? You said you were developing it yourself. if so, it could be a darkroom issue where you may not be keeping it light tight.

Jan 12, 2008 | Konica Camera 35mm 27 Exposures Outdoor -...

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