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Electrolux model E32AF75FPS4 frosting up evaporator

Evaporator won't defrost. I've checked the heating coil for continuity and the defrost thermostat and both are good. I don't think the defrost timer is on long enough, but do not see how to adjust it

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer Troubles

Skap, the question is whether the evaporator coils are completely frosted up or just the top section. Frigidaire has had a lot of issues with restrictions which would cause just freezing on the top half. I will attach some pictures. Your unit has an adaptive defrost. I believe that you can advance it into defrost by pressing the light switch 5 or 6 times. If you pull the bottom grill, there should be a tech sheet with the instructions behind it. Usually when this adaptive defrost unit fails, you will not have a freezer fan, for it runs through this adaptive defrost board. Your heaters are calrod and usually do not fail. They can become unplugged due to ice build-up. You can check to see if you have 120V getting to them after putting the unit into defrost. If not, check the defrost thermostat (bi-metal). If it's bulged, it's usually a bad sign. Defrost the unit with a hair dryer while unplugged. You have to remove the back freezer panel to get at the bi-metal, defrost the unit and check the drain pan.

Posted on Sep 11, 2006

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Oceti
  • 51 Answers

SOURCE: Amana not cooling

Take the back cover off and look at the frost. If the frost is only at the bottom of the coils then you are low on R-12 or R-134 and the defrost t-stat is cutting out to quick. If the coils are well frosted then you have a bad t-stat.

Posted on Dec 09, 2007

  • 531 Answers

SOURCE: defrost timer location on Kenmore model 106.56542400

carry control board part#2149705

Posted on Apr 06, 2009

  • 306 Answers

SOURCE: freezer frosts up and stops cooling after approximately 2 weeks

With your new timer in hand look and find a slotted screw driver head that you can turn. That is to manually advance the timer. Now put the new one in and advance it to engage the compressor and fan. Might be in the middle of defrost mode. Your unit goes through 3 defrost modes in a 24 hour period. And each mode last for 20 minutes. Once you do this I could help further if that was the case. Okay ken

Posted on May 02, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: What turns on the evaporator fan?

The main control board is probably the problem . Part number WR55X10656 . This board controls the operation of the fan motors and everything else on the refrig . This is also the " defrost timer " . However , the coils frosting up , is probably because the fan motor is not pulling air across them . Not because of a faulty " defrost timer " . This board is located on the back of the refrig , behind an 8"X10" panel . Usually a resistor burns out relating to the fan motor operation . Cannot replace the resistor , only the board .

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

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I have a side by side whirlpool fridge and the freezer is fine but the fridge is now freezing everything. It's about 11 years old.


Since you stand to loose all the food I would call a service tech ASAP. But here are the most common reasons for the problem you have.
Cause 1
The Evaporator Coils are Frosted Over The defrost heater assembly turns on a few times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the coils will become plugged with frost. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the airflow through the coils will be restricted, causing the refrigerator not to cool. Check the evaporator coils to determine if they are frosted over. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, test each component of the defrost system.
Cause 2
Evaporator Fan Motor The evaporator fan motor draws cold air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan is not working, the freezer or refrigerator will not cool adequately. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor..
Cause 3
Damper Control Assembly The air damper control opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper does not open properly, it won't let enough cold air into the refrigerator. Check the damper control to determine if it is broken or stuck closed.

Nov 19, 2016 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

FREEZER COOLING OK BUT FRIDGE LOW COOLING


Remember that most all refrigerators only have cooling to the freezer... the refrigerator depends on stealing some of that cold to be cool, so here's my top 3 guesses...
Cause 1 The defrost heater is defective, so frost accumulates on the evaporator coils, and the coils will become plugged with frost causing the airflow through the coils to be restricted, and the refrigerator not to cool. Check the evaporator coils to determine if they are frosted over. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, test each component of the defrost system after clearing any restrictions to the cooling fan and defrosting with a hair dryer.
Cause 2
The evaporator fan motor draws cold air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan is not working, the freezer or refrigerator will not cool adequately. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, bench test it for function and use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, (very odd) replace the evaporator fan motor.
Cause 3
Damper Control Assembly The air damper control opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper does not open properly, it won't let enough cold air into the refrigerator. Check the damper control to determine if it is broken or stuck closed or that an inadvertent bump has shut it off to the refrigerator compartment

Apr 09, 2016 | White-Westinghouse WRSZ28V8GM Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

I have a daewoofrg1820brb I've had it plugged in 4 2 hrs now freezer is cold but the bottom isn't getting cold


Remember that most all refrigerators only have cooling to the freezer... the refrigerator depends on stealing some of that cold to be cool, so here's my top 3 guesses...
Cause 1 The defrost heater is defective, so frost accumulates on the evaporator coils, and the coils will become plugged with frost causing the airflow through the coils to be restricted, and the refrigerator not to cool. Check the evaporator coils to determine if they are frosted over. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, test each component of the defrost system after clearing any restrictions to the cooling fan and defrosting with a hair dryer.
Cause 2
The evaporator fan motor draws cold air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan is not working, the freezer or refrigerator will not cool adequately. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, bench test it for function and use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, (very odd) replace the evaporator fan motor. Cause 3
Damper Control Assembly The air damper control opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper does not open properly, it won't let enough cold air into the refrigerator. Check the damper control to determine if it is broken or stuck closed or that an inadvertent bump has shut it off to the refrigerator compartment

Apr 09, 2016 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a Hotpoint HSS25GFPEWW side by side.....initially the ice maker stopped crushing and dispensing ice....then the freezer started to warm. I cleaned the condenser coils and confirmed the condenser...


dead if the compressor is running and theres no cooling or frost on the evaporator you have leaked out all your freon only way to fix is call a pro about 600$ to fix

Aug 15, 2012 | Hotpoint HSS25GFP Side by Side...

1 Answer

FROST BUILD UP IN FREEZER


you need to remove this rear wall panel inside the freezer,you may need to take a hand held hair dryer to help you get to the screws securing the panel and heat the panel itself to get it off the evaporator coil that you will find is covered by frost,then defrost this whole area with the hair dryer,then under the evaporator coil theres a heating element,check this with an ohmmeter for continuity it may read everal ohms of resistance,if ok then on top of the same evaporator coil on one side or the other theres a small round disk with 2 wires out of it,this is your defrost thermostat,check this the same way as the heater was checked,except this will check like a switch it will be close to 0 ohms if good,but remember it needs to be checked when its below 15 degrees or it will check bad (open)so to do this after defrosting restart the refrigerator and let it freeze so this component gets cold then check it,if it also checks good then the defrost timer could be bad,it depends on your model what type it is and where its located in the unit

Jun 19, 2012 | GE Refrigerators

2 Answers

Delay on evap. fan sistm.404a


Give the evaporator a chance to get cold, then check you've got power to the fan, via the evaporator thermistor and door switch

May 02, 2012 | True Freezers

1 Answer

Hi, I have an Admiral Refrigerator Model Number RSCA207AAM. I think it was purchased over 12 years ago. The refrigerator part is not cooling enough. Can you tell me how old this refrigerator is? Is...


Good day!!!!

A refrigerator or freezer that doesn't cool well enough may have a problem with its evaporator coils, condenser, or condenser fan motor. Frost build-up on evaporator coils, or condenser coils that are covered with dirt, dust, or lint can reduce how well a refrigerator can cool. If you notice ice getting thicker on the inside walls, inside bottom, or inside ceiling of the freezer, you have what is called a frost build-up. The problem is either with warm, moist air getting in through an old inefficient door gasket or the defrost system. Self-defrosting refrigerators have coils and a cooling fan that need to be cleaned regularly. If the coils get coated with any contaminants, they may not cool the refrigerator properly. The coils are usually thin and black and they go through fins that dissipate heat, just like a car's radiator. They are located behind the lower kick-panel or on the back of the refrigerator. To clean them, turn the power off and use this condenser coil cleaning brush, or this condenser coil cleaning brush, and your vacuum cleaner. Even if your coils are below the refrigerator, you won't be able to get to all the condenser coils from the front, so it's a good idea to pull the refrigerator out and clean the coils from the front and the rear of the refrigerator. Give the fan a dusting as well. Sometimes other things can be the reason behind poor cooling, like the condenser fan motor. Anytime the freezer fan is running, the condenser fan should also be running.
A frost build-up inside the refrigerator usually means that there is a problem in the self-defrost system. You may even have damaged door gaskets. When you open the refrigerator door, you also let in a blast of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the evaporator coils immediately. Self-defrost refrigerators are supposed to self-defrost between two and four times out of every 24 hour time-frame. They basically turn off for a few minutes several times a day. A defrost heater kicks on to melt any frost build-up on these coils, which allows the frost and ice to melt, then it drains off to the pan underneath most refrigerators. Unfortunately, when a defrost component fails, too much frost builds up on the evaporator coils. When this happens, the circulating fan can't draw air over these coils. With no air flow over the evaporator coils, the refrigerator compartment will lose its cool.
To determine if the self defrost system is faulty, it's best to remove all the food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn your thermostat to the Off setting, and just leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours, and let the refrigerator defrost. Keep an eye out for an overflow of water from the drip pan on the bottom of the refrigerator.
After everything has completely melted away, set the thermostat back to a regular setting. If your refrigerator starts operating properly, the symptoms lead to there being a problem with one of three other components in the self-defrosting system, the defrost heater, the defrost timer, or the defrost thermostat.
If, after testing these components, the refrigerator still doesn't get your foods cool, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level and you will need to contact a professional appliance repair person.

I hope this information will be helpful...Thank you for consulting fixya..

Aug 31, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a Electrolux GLHS38EGSB0 side by side refrigerator, which the freezer is not getting cold. I've adjusted the freezer to -6, but nothing gets cold and the ice maker isn't making ice. The...


. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter. If it's good then it's most likely the compressor causing the problem.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm




Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).
If it's iced up really heavy you have an auto defrost problem. Melt the ice with a hairdryer and check the defrost system.



DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Jul 25, 2011 | Electrolux EI26SS55GS Stainless Steel ...

1 Answer

Our power was recently knocked out for a couple days by a storm. Since then, the fridge and freezer or cold, but not cold enough. Especially the freezer. Nothing freezes. No ice.


Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter. If it's good then it's most likely the compressor causing the problem.


Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm




Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).
If it's iced up really heavy you have an auto defrost problem. Melt the ice with a hairdryer and check the defrost system.


DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Jul 25, 2011 | GE Adora DSS25KSTSS Stainless Steel Side...

1 Answer

I have a maytag MSD2756GEW model side by side refrig. water started to leak onto the floor from the front freezer door. Now the freezer and refrigerator section is not cooling at all


Water leak-The evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the inside of the freezer at the bottom of the rear cover.





DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Apr 20, 2011 | Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator

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