Question about Ovens
We own a whirlpool electric built-in self cleaning single oven model number RB160PXL-2. The clock is making a countious loud running noise that we can not get to stop. It has gone on for about 24 hours now. We tried to play with the clock and the timers and this does nothing but change the pitch of the sound. We tried to turn the circuit breaker on and off but it just starts right up again when the power is returned. The oven seems to be working fine, it will heat up but we have not ''used'' it since the noise began. Please help us to silence the noise.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Wont' heat in broil or bake
check incoming electric first, pull it out and gain access to main wire terminal, With multimeter set to at least 250v AC , check your power across the wiring as such. black to white (110v), red to white(110v) and then black to red 230v. if that ok ok turn, then start ckin elements for continuty also there might be a thermostat( usually an 1 in. round component with 2 wires located right inbetween the elements that has gone bad, will show no continuity. ck that before electronic control the fact that its clickin sounds like the relays are workin properly
Posted on Feb 23, 2008
I used the self cleaning mode for 2 hours and the error f2 keeps flashing and beeping, I did try to power off with the breaker and left it off for about a half hour and it still continues to beep and flash f2, what should I do?
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
SOURCE: oven won't heat
There is a design problem with certain model Whirlpool ranges where the thermal fuse blows during self-cleaning (auto-clean). This may be because of inadequate insulation, causing the outer panel to overheat. When the thermal fuse is replaced, the range will work, but it will blow the next time auto-clean is done. To safely work around the problem, the thermal fuse may be replaced with a thermostat, which will reset itself once the oven has partially cooled off. If the part number of the thermal fuse is 9759243, it will blow at 120 deg C (248 deg F). This can be replaced to a Selco Part# SES-L250 thermostat. The terminals are perpendicular (90 degress), so they have to be bent to 30 degrees for the wires to fit behind the back panel.
Selco part# SES-L250 specs:
3/4 in. disc
open on-rise (normally closed)
open (cut-out): 250 deg F
close (cut-in): 220 deg F
temperature differential: 40 deg F
Available: Selco distributors: http://www.selcoproducts.com/distributors.php
and online at
Allied Electronics http://www.alliedelec.com
If the Selco SES-L250 'surface mount' thermostat is not available, an 'airstream type' thermostat can be used with a few differences:
1) I recommend to replace it to a 240 or 230 deg F thermostat. The reason for the lower cut-out temperature is that an 'airstream mount' thermostat will not be flush with the back panel, as is the original 250 deg F 'surface mount' one, so it may cut-out at a higher (unsafe) temperature.
2) I recommend to add Heat-sink compound between the thermostat and the sheet metal. This is used for computer processors and is available at computer and electronic component stores.
3) An 'airstream type' thermostat is thicker than the original 'surface mount' one, so longer screws will have to be obtained. The sheet metal tabs on the thermostat will bend slightly when installing.
4) The terminals are perpendicular (90 degress), so they have to be bent to 30 degrees for the wires to fit behind the back panel.
Recommended 'airstream type' thermostats:
General Electric LS2-240
Posted on Nov 03, 2009
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