Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sarct, the question is, was the freezer side ok, if it was, I would suspect the damper not opening. If the freezer side was warm too, then I would suspect the evaporator thermistor not sending the signal to the board to terminate the defrost. Have the tech first check the continuity at connector J3. He should have 400ohms at J3-1 to J3-2 and the same at J3-3 to j3-4. If he doesn't get those readings have him check at the damper motor itself. If he doesn't have it there, replace the damper motor. If the damper motor passes all the checks then it's on to the evaporator thermistor. Have him check the resistance. At 5 degrees it should ohm at approx 36K ohms. The evap thermostat is redundant to the defrost operation. It's there as a back up in the event the evap thermistor fails to terminate the defrost. It's normally closed and will open at 140 degrees.
Posted on Dec 20, 2007
The fan should be a standard 12v DC computer style fan , test that you are getting voltage to the fan connector . You should also be able to get the fan to run by connecting it to a suitable supply . Once you have eliminated the possibility of fan failure then it gets more involved.
Posted on Aug 28, 2008
SOURCE: GE refrigerator won't keep cool
check the voltage going into you fan w/ the old main board and also w/ the new board. You might be getting a low voltage w/ your new board or the fan you replaced is for a diferent voltage. Have you tried to put the old fan back w/ the new board??
Posted on Jan 18, 2010
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