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Step 1: . Unplug the fridge. You can wait until later but don't forget. Step 2: Freezer door. It's 4 screws, one in each corner. Just loosen them a few turns - don't take the screws out entirely - it's much easier putting the door back on when the screws are already in place. The door slides up & off. Step 3: Lower basket. It lifts out, no tools required. Now's a good time to start eating all your ice cream. Step 4: Upper basket. Remove the 2 screws at the front of the rails, then lift up the rails slightly on each side, to slide the basket forward.
On the plastic pieces at the back sides of the upper basket, push in two tabs with your screwdriver on each piece & pop them up. This will let the upper basket slide out off the rails. Step 5: Icemaker. Remove the lower screw, then loosen or remove the two screws above the icemaker. Unplug the wire harness where it passes through the rear panel - squeeze the sides of the plug & pull. Lift the icemaker up & out. The water tube will slide out of the guide. Step 6: Plastic guards.The thermostat guard is the skinny piece to the upper right. Push in (to the right) the tab on the left side in the middle. The guard opens like a door pivoting on the right edge, & pulls out.
The center fan guard has two tabs at the top on each end that push in toward the center, & another tab in the middle at the bottom of the guard that pops up. Step 7: Freezer panel. Remove the 4 screws in each corner. Push the thermostat back through the slot at the top, & also push the icemaker plug back through its slot.
FAST/HARD WAY: Pull carefully up & out from the top middle edge. Be careful because that sucker is SHARP! The back panel will bend vertically in the middle as you remove it, but it's flexible & will pop back into shape.
SLOW/EASY WAY: If you don't like bending the panel around the drawer slides, you can take off the slides. The metal rails have tabs that push in to release the whole slide assembly, which pulls out forward. You only need to take the rail housings off one side - when you go to remove the rear panel, just pull that side first. To release the upper section (that you already unscrewed in Step 4), left it up, bend in & pull out - the back end has a tab through the freezer wall. The lower plastic slide housing unscrews with 4 screws. Step 8: Ice Dam. By now you should see the ice problem. Typically the entire evaporator tray is completely iced, along with some of the tubing. MELT IT ALL. Warm water applied with a turkey baster works well. Be careful not to puncture the coils because ... that will ruin your fridge.
Do all the ice melting while the drain is still plugged so it runs out into the freezer floor where you can sponge it up. If the meltwater goes out through the drain hole, it can flood the pan under the fridge - no big deal, just dirtier water & more mess.
The drain hole is near the front of the rear tray in the middle. It's pretty wide (1/2?) & short, only ~2 inches long. It goes straight down into a rubber "duck bill" grommet that's probably plugged up with gunk, that you access from the back of the fridge... Step 9: Drain grommet. Pull out the fridge so you can access the back side. Remove the screws (6?) around the lower access panel, pop the power cord up & tilt the panel out of the way. The plastic tray under the fan is the evaporator tray - that's where the water SHOULD normally be dripping into & evaporating from.
Behind (technically in front of) the fan, there's a black drain slide into the tray that leads up to your plugged drain. Push the slide aside to see the drain. There's a rubber "duck bill" grommet on the end. Pull it off & clean it - it's no doubt plugged with gunk. Better yet, trim the opening very slightly so the hole is larger - see this site for photos. Step 10: Put it all back together. Some tips: if you lived hard/fast & didn't remove the rails & rail housing, getting the freezer panel back in place . Make sure you slide the tray rails all the way out before you start trying to put the rear panel back. Bend the panel vertically along the middle so it springs back into place on each side. Again, wear gloves. Once it's in place, don't forget to run the thermostat wire & icemaker tube/plug out.
When you put the the top tray back, make sure it's all the way to the front before you pop the plastic pieces on each side back down, so the gears on each side are aligned in matching grooves. Otherwise your drawer will be crooked & probably won't slide.
Hope this helps. I have a Whirlpool GX2FGDXVY but these steps work on other models too including Maytag etc.
Tool Needed, flat head screwdriver (larger one works a little better). Serious Safety Precaution: Make sure unit is unplugged. Preliminary: Check: that nothing is caught like threads etc, preventing roller brush from turning. I've had this model vacuum 10 years and have pulled threads out countless times. However it still has the original belt on it. To change belt: 1.) There is a plastic plate underneath roller, towards front.. Pry the 3 tabs at front, the plate hinges downward slightly (to clear the front tabs). Next, there are 2 little clips at bottom of plate. Insert screw driver at each of these clips to fully release the plate the rest of the way. (Or it may even come off without having to pry back on these. The plastic clips need pushed towards front, to clear the ridge that catches towards the back). Pry one, then the other, clip forward, while gently pulling the plate the rest of the way out. (Gentle prying will assure it will snap back together OK, so you still get a good seal.) You now should see the whole roller brush. 2.) Remove the shell/motor cover: To do this, a.) pull off the rug height adjuster lever, and take not where you put it so you won't loose it. b.) push foot release down and keep vacuum bag in the vacuuming/hinged/operating position (not the upright/locked position), and position cleaner on it's side, or upside down. c. Pry around the bottom edge, starting at right corner, then go around, prying in about 4 different places. Shell/motor cover will now easily pull off (upward and out towards front), exposing motor shaft and light bulb. 3.) remove belt from motor shaft. 4. slide roller and old belt out the bottom. 5.) remove old and place new belt on roller 6.) slide roller back into place. 7.) wrap other end of belt on motor shaft. 8.) shell cover, rug height adjuster knob, and bottom plate snap back into place. check that roller turns without much effort. 9.) It now should be ready to plug in and vacuum.
There are 2 tabs on the bottom front edge of the switch plate which slide under the metal top cover. Make sure these tabs have not gotten bent upward so they will not slide under the top cover. If they are bent, simply pry them open. Also, note that the handle pivot has a sliding latch on it to allow the handle to be fully lowered. To lower the handle flat, push the little knob inward.
Apply slight pressure downward on the plate (like you are pushing on the battery under the plate) and slide the plate down toward the silver speaker, once it slides all the way down you can lift the plate off and have access to the battery and Micro SD card.
just pop off the colored plate and the clips are on the side. the drive will slide right out. (1) take off the left side cover, (2) near the front, at the bottom of
the internal drive cage is a plastic lever, flip it down, (3) now open
the front plastic CD holder cover (the bottom gray plastic thing), (4)
there are two finger holes at the bottom of the top plastic cover - pull
the top cover loose (note if you're scared to put a lot of pressure on
it, you can use a small flat screwdriver through those holes to lift
back the two tabs holding the cover on), (5) with the top cover off,
pinch in the two plastic tabs on the side of the drive you want and pull
it forward (note disconnect the IDE cable (and audio if there is one) before pulling the drive
too far out), (6) pull off the two side rails from the old drive (they
just push in and pull out) - but note which rail comes off which side
(I'm not sure if they can be inserted upside down or not, so just keep
track of which one goes on which side), (7) push the side rails onto the
new drive (note you have to really push hard on the metal part of the
rail to seat it properly - you'll know it's not seated if the drive
doesn't slip in easily), (8) slip in the new drive & connect the IDE
and power (and audio if there is one)cables (9) install the top plastic frame, flip up the lock inside the case,
then close the bottom CD cover thing, (10) enjoy the new drive. hope this helps you and please vote for me
CAUTION: Mains voltage connections are exposed once the base of the projector is removed. ONLY attempt repairs if you are confident of your skills!
There are several possible causes for this problem:
1. Kodak produce two different types of carousel magazines - one for glass mounts and one for card mounts. You must not mix glass and slide mounts in the magazine - it causes the focus mechanism to 'hunt' and also causes the slides to jam, as described. 2. These projectors are almost antiques ..... lubricants dry out and the mechanisms slow down and stick! Some 'technicians' apply graphited grease over the top of the dried stuff, hoping it will soak in! Clean as much of the old lubricants off with 'electronic component' solvent on cotton buds particulalrly around all of the cams. Pay particular attention to the slide lifter cam follower - grease here can cause the lifter to only lift, or drop, the slide partially though its full travel. I use 'CopperEase' very, very sparingly on the cams (NOT on the face of the slide lifter cam) and haven't experienced any problems. You should not adjust the cams on their shaft. 3. The slide pressure plate is acuated through one of the cam followers, opening and closing at the right time. There is a very fine pivot bar at the bottom of the plate. The pivot points can be lubricated with a single small drop of fine industrial sewing machine oil. Avoid 3in1 oil at all cost!
There are many models of the Hoover Telios. This solution applies to the T5603 at least, but perhaps not to all models... sorry, I don't know about the others. Anyway, this is it. The cover is held to the base by 8 screws. Two are clearly visible near the handle, two are in the bag compartment. They are easy! The problem is finding the others, because they are concealed by the foot-operated switch plates, and you have to get those plates off without breaking them. Basically, those plates slide off backwards (i.e. away from the handle end) but you have to release a plastic catch first. The catch is part of the switch-plate, and is located roughly mid-way along the straight side of the plate, just by the raised bump. You can just see the catch if you shine a torch light down the gap. The catch is released by inserting a small screwdriver or other flat blade and levering it away from the centre-line of the machine. If you apply gentle rearward pressure on the plate while doing this, you will soon feel when it's released. Once the catch is released, the plate will slide off completely and the remaining four screws are revealed. After that, it's simple! Hope this helps!
If it is a normal PC, there should be 2 screws on either side of the drive that have to be removed before the drive can come out. Many times you have to remove both sides of the computer case to get to these.
This can vary however from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some put the drives on what are called rails where, if you release the rail it will simply slide out, other times only one side has screws.
If it is a mass manufactured PC (DELL, Gateway, HP, etc.) you should be able to find a manual on their site that would help.
On the bottom of the front rail that drops (the drop rail), there are two plastic tension pieces (one at either end) that engage the two fixed, bottom rail slider hardware (the long, narrow pieces screwed top-and-bottom into the lower, inside portion of the tall, upright crib ends). These tension pieces are spring loaded, and the outer edge of each one rides along the outside (i.e., the parent's side) of the two bottom metal rail guides. Their purpose is to supply outward pressure against the lower part of the drop rail - that's what you push against when you press your lower leg upon the bottom of the drop side of the crib to lower it. They insure that when up, the drop side locks safely into place. I suspect these tension pieces are your problem. It sounds like they are improperly installed. Good luck.