Question about Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air Conditioner

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Carrier Weathermaker SX (model 58SX100)

My furnace is intermittent. The thermostat "clicks" telling the furnace to come on. Then the induction motor will come on for 10-15 seconds and then just goes out. After some resets the furnace will come on and light off normally and run just fine - until the next time. Often we will wake up or come home to find out the the furnace has not come on. We reset it and usually it will come on, but occassionally it will again turn on the induction motor for a few seconds and then shut down. The tech has looked at it twice and can't figure it out. Thinks it might be the burner control unit. Filter clean, no codes available (this system doesn't have it). Hunter thermostat.

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  • rclatter Feb 04, 2009

    Okay I took of the tubing from the inducer and there was a little water in it and there was a low point so I shortened the tube and it worked like a charm for a couple of weeks. Now it has started back again. I rechecked the tubing and it appears obstruction free.



    I noticed that the inducer blower comes on for about 10-15 seconds but I get no pilot light and the inducer motor shuts right down. After a few resets the inducer comes on, in about 10 seconds I hear a tick, tick, tick (which I assume is an ignitor?) and the pilot light comes on and the furnace works like a charm...until the next time. The flame is blue and appears strong. So it appears the problem is that the pilot does not light (it does not stay lit constantly like pilots used to do on mom's old gas stove I assume that is correct). I hear no tick, tick, tick the times it just goes out - so the pilot light "ignitor" if there is such a thing does not try to ignite the pilot.



    Any ideas? Thanks in advance for all your help.

  • corniew Feb 05, 2009

    I'm having the exact same problem. My furnace just ran for 6 days straight with no problems but just went down again. Open/Close bottom door to reset after 5 min timer is finished ID fan comes on for 10 sec then goes back off.

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There is a small tube that comes off the inducer for cracks or water. If there are cracks then the pressure switch that it is attached to may not be closing all of the time. Also sometimes you can get water in that tubing which will also cause the pressure switch to not close. If thats the case shorten the tube so there is no low droop in it where water can collect. Another thing that I would do is disconnect the tube at the indicer, take a straightened out paper clip or stiff wire and poke it in the nipple on the inducer to make sure it is clear too. Let me know if any of these work. There may be other things we can do.

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

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On my carrier Model 585SXA100-J6 furnace, the gas pressure must be adjusted about once a year or else the pilot goes out. If you remove only the top service door on the furnace and look through the peep hole as the furnace starts, you can see if the pilot lights. If the pilot does not light,or does not stay on, the furnace will run a blower to vent the gas from the combustion chamber, which is why the furnace appears to run for a few minutes after a failure to ignite. In some cities gas pressure varies with the season and with demand. If the pilot does not stay on, a service person can adjust the pressure by turning (slightly) the larger of two slotted screw adjustments near the gas shut off valve that is in the furnace. The goal is a pure blue flame.

In the lower part of the compartment that is revealed when you remove the top service door is some PVC plumbing and a small tube that runs down through the front and bottom of this compartment. This tube must not become clogged. If it does, water builds up in the air intake plumbing. My furnace is old enough so that some plumbing in this area leaks even with the tube free of obstruction. Check for water in this area. To me, it looks as if considerable disassembly is required to fix this plumbing, so I'm going to call the pros. One main leak is from a seam in the black plastic chamber that hooks to the PVC air inlet. The symptom that seems to be associated with this problem for my furnace is that it runs fine for about 10 minutes but shuts off too soon.

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

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  • tashiro Feb 05, 2009

    Response to the comment by Rclatter than sometimes his pilot does not ignite

    I think to get a knowledgeable technician that you will have to call the official Carrier dealer since this is not an run-of-the-mill type of gas furnace.

    You are correct that the pilot does not stay light all the time. I haven't tried this, but I think the inductive pickup lead of an automotive timing light would detect whether the wire going into the combustion chamber was firing a spark to ignite the pilot. The type of timing light that has its own batteries would be perfect for this test. Some automotive multimeters also have leads with inductive pickups. It is like the familiar automotive question of "do you have spark".

    Even if you have no spark, you should still check gas pressure. I don't know if the control unit is smart enough not to fire the spark when it detects low gas pressure, but it might be. The slotted control farthest from the blue shut-off value inside the furnace can be used to adjust the gas pressure to the pilot. The fact that the pilot burns with a blue flame does not prove that it wouldn't burn even better with more gas.

    I had the following unusual experience with poor gas pressure. The sidewalks, sewer lines and gas lines on my street were torn out and replaced. Just after this I had a problem getting the pilot light to ignite. A city worker verified that there was adequate pressure at my gas meter. I called the company that installed the furnace. They found the pressure was low. At the junction to the meter they found that a fragment of plastic had lodged in the line. It was a cap of the type that is put over the end of gas lines to protect the threads during shipping. I suspect this had blown in from some of the new gas line was installed.





  • tashiro Feb 11, 2009

    Further response to Rclatter:

    The audible ticks don't correspond to an event involving the gas when my furnace starts. The pilot lights silently about 15 seconds after the small blower starts. About 10 seconds after the ticks is when the main burners turned on.

    If you Google on "Carrier 585SX" you can find links that discuss the sensors and circuit boards on this furnace. doityourself.com had a lengthy one:http://forum.doityourself.com/gas-oil-he...

  • tashiro Feb 10, 2010

    My furnace again had a problem with the drain. The symptom was that the inducer motor would start, the pilot would light, but the gas valve that controls the main burners would not stay not. I could hear it clank on and off rapidly. The problem was the drain tube from the heat exchanger. If you take off the bottom door of the furnace, you see two drain tubes go into a what looks like a short length of PVC pipe. Out of the middle of the pipe a single drain tube exits downward. The tube on the upper right goes to the combustion chamber. All the tubes seemed to be open, but when I took this tube off, water flowed out of it. I am able to run the furnace fine with this tube emptying into a jar. I think something in the PVC assembly needs to be cleaned or replaced. The lesson: just because the bottom tube runs freely, this doesn't mean that your furnace is draining properly. Water backing up in the tube from the heat exchanger could be detected in the nipple where the vaccum hose from the pressure gage is attached. I think this prevented the pressure gage from acting. When the furnace runs properly you can hear the pressure gage click soon after the inducer motor starts (The pressure gauge looks like a shiny disk, in the compartment of the furnace toward the right hand side).

  • tashiro Feb 10, 2010

    I incorrectly wrote that the tube on the right goes to the "combustion chamber". I meant "heat exchanger".

  • tashiro Feb 10, 2010

    "Pressure switch" would be the proper term instead of "pressure gauge".

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