Hello. The infeed/outfeed rollers on my Steel City 13in planer will not rotate and hence wood will not plane.
I've cleaned the rollers and plan on waxing the table but I don't think waxing will help as the rollers simply do not engage. (I believe the rollers are meant to begin rotating as soon as the machine is turned on?) I did make the stupid mistake of trying to plane a block of wood that was shorter than the suggested 6in minimun...it was kicked back and may have damaged whatever operates the roller (I believe it struck the infeed roller). Are the rollers run on gears that can be damaged? Any suggestions?
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This is weird. Sounds like it could be a few things. I would start with ensuring that the bearings on the cutterhead are not worn out. Do this by grasping the cutterhead with the power disconnected and try to wiggle to see if there is slop-There should be NONE. Also, while there, ensure the blades are not loose. The next thing is to ensure that the blades are sharp. If not, they could be causing large tearout (Hence, the pop)which could lead to the board popping upwards and sniping. The last thing to check would be that the infeed/outfeed pressure rollers are doing there job to hold down the board. Good luck!
1. If the scratch is on the side not being cut, check the infeed and outfeed tables for debris or defects.
2.. If the scratch is on the cut side of the board:
(a) check for problems with the rollers and any parts that hold the board down while being planed. (b) check for nicks in the blades. Shift the blades a little left and right so the nicks don't line up; or (c) hone and reset the blades.
On a few Ridgid planers, you can remove the retainer plates that hold the roller's bearing blocks in place without removing the head from the base, on others you have to seperate the head from the base to get at them. The infeed and outfeed rollers are not adjustable in that you don't have to line them up precisely when installing new rollers, they only go in one way. They do install into bearing blocks that 'float' on springs to keep the rollers tight on the wood being planed and there is a difference between the springs on the left and right side. Make sure you install the springs on the same side they came out of. When you replace the rollers you should replace the bearing blocks because they have to work together properly. Check the fit of the old bearing blocks on the new rollers, they should rotate smoothly with no side play. Make the call yourself whether to replace them or not.
You will always have snipe at the end of planed boards equal to the distance from your infeed and outfeed rollers. It's severity is determined by how much the board sags or dropps behind the planer until the second roller catches the board. Some planers have extended tables to help with this. What you can do is hold the board up as much as possible and still let the infeed roller move the board smoothly until the board contacts the outfeed roller.
With any of these portable planers, the sniping can be a problem that you can minimize. Of course you can use a board longer than you need... but more practically: 1. Take light cuts 2. Make sure your infeed and outfeed tables are at the same height and are parallel to the suface of the machine below the cutter. 3. Provide additional in-feed and out-feed support beyond the little in-feed and out-feed tables to keep your material moving consistently in the same plane from start to finish. you might use support rollers. Take care to get the whole setup adjusted all in one plane. Good luck.
You have already covered the normal bases, so give this a try. When planing, cut considerably less, and see if the feed improves. It should. You should probably try this on scrap wood to get the feel of it. Measure your wood, then aim to plane no more than 1/16" on the first pass. If successful, try a bit more, say 1/8". Generally speaking, it is better to make multiple passes taking small amounts of material than to try to get it all in one pass. The wood will feed better, with less checking, and give you a better finished product.
Couple of things to check:
1. Are your knives sharp? Dull knives will cut not fast enough to keep up with the rollers.
2. What is the depth of cut? Dewalt's planers cannot plane a board to excessive depths.
3. Are you rollers clean? Dirt, pitch or possibly grease could affect your feed rate.
4. The belt/chain for your rollers engaged or are they slipping? Open up the planer and check for wear or possibly broken belt/chain.
Snipe is usally caused by improper support while exiting the planer. Use outfeed rollers set to the correct height. Also chek that you outfeed bed is aligned with the bed of the planer.
Hope that helps,
The rollers may need to be reconditioned. Try cleaning with a solvent to soften them up. I hope this has been helpful please rate if this answer has been of any help. Good Luck and have a great weekend.
It sounds like your blade holder assy has become misaligned on the blade drive shaft. Try if you can to use a straight edge on 2 planes 90 deg apart and see if there are any gaps in either of the srtaight edges. I suspect that the blade drive holder has become slightly dislodged from the drive collar on one end allowing the blade drive to tilt on the drive shaft. I had the same thing happen on another brand named Planer and it was a matter of reseating the collar to cure the stripes. Sure took a long time to sort out. Good Luck.