Question about Heating & Cooling

Open Question

Need a wire schematic for a old magic chef gas heater it has a ignition control box and 2 limit switches with a transformer but some one wired up a toggle swiych to start unit so now the fan and flame start up all together and the tubes dont have time to heat up

Posted by on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Therinnaiguy
  • 1420 Answers

SOURCE: Dayton Infrared natural gas heater ignition/flame sensor

Yes, the flame sensor is part of the intermittent pilot assembly. Check the following: make sure all grounding wires are secure and no corrosion is built up on them. Clean or replace the pilot assembly, also clean out the orifice with a very small drill. Make sure the sensor is in the flame and make sure the pilot tube is not leaking gas reducing the gas pressure at the pilot.

If it continues, you will have to replace the ignition control.

Posted on Nov 26, 2007

billyvangogh
  • 108 Answers

SOURCE: Dayton Heater M/N 3E227E

Hard to believe they sell a retrofit kit for a Gas furnace to a Customer....This is ahrd to advise you on with out seeing the schematic and if it is indeed intended for that furnace....the Spark mounting location is CRITICAL for safety so make sure that is correct above all.....OK The wire coming off the transformer and tied to the red wire going to the heat excghanger would most likely be a High Limit switch...cuts the gas off if the blower doesnt work etc or you would have a fire...so this switch must be in series with the transformer to cut power when the switch opens....the wire MV/PV coming from the "Electronic control box" needs to go to the New Gas Valve you should have which will have a termional marked MV/PV (Main valve/Pilot/valve) as your old one was for a standing pilot application and when you have electronic ignition you req a Gas valve for Intermittent pilot .....you should also have 2 more terminals on the valve MV and PV which will have seperate lines from the ignition control as well....basicvally there will be another wire coming from MV/PV going back to the transformer...make sure all wiring is correct and I would strongly advise you have a technician check your work before you attempt to use it....if wired incorrectly you could have a serious delayed ignition as its possible to power the main burner instead of the pilot if you wire it up wrong below is a typical spark wiring diagram....may not apply totally to your system but it will give you the general idea79f9627.gif

Posted on Oct 31, 2009

  • 832 Answers

SOURCE: Lakewood heater 7101 schematic

The power cord goes the switch terminal 1 and 3.
Terminal 2 must be the opposite of terminal 1, such that when switched on, 1 & 2 connects. Terminal 4 must be the opposite of terminal 3, such that 3 & 4 connects.
Under this setup, you may connect red to terminal 2
and black to terminal 4.
Be sure of the 1 & 2 pair, as well as the 3 & 4 pair.
then, connect the red and black wires.
Hope this will help you.



Posted on Jan 06, 2010

  • 185 Answers

SOURCE: The fan starts and then the flame ignites but goes out

Did you clean the sensor with a piece of sand paper? Then wipe it with a dollar bill. The bill has a fire proof like chemical on it. Rubbing it on the sensor will coat it and keep it cean longer. If this dont work let me know

Posted on Mar 21, 2010

  • 2458 Answers

SOURCE: The fan starts and then the flame ignites but goes out

clean the flame sensor first .

Posted on Aug 15, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Heater


It sounds like the ignitor is not working, Since the heater is not detecting a flame it goes to lockout. Check the ignitor wiring to see if it is in good shape. Sometimes the connection where the wire (from the IID) connects to the ignitor gets corroded.

It could also be the IID which makes sure the safety loop is complete before calling for heat and sending current to the ignitor. Good luck with it.

Jan 11, 2014 | Mr. Heater Natural Gas Garage Heater -...

1 Answer

Furnace problems


On - OK
1 Blink - Ignition failure. Check Gas flow, gas pressure, gas valve, flame sensor.
2 Blinks - Closed pressure switch. Check pressure switch (stuck in closed position).
3 Blinks - Pressure switch - failre to close. Check venter, pressure switch, vent blockage.
4 Blinks - Open limit switch. Main limit or aux limit are open. (My comment - Means overheating in chamber. Often result of blocked intake air. Bad filter. In my case, plastic wrap had been sucked into the intake. )
6 Blinks - False flame sensed. Check sticking gas valve.
Rapid continuous blinking - Incorrect twinning, incorrect primary polarity. Reverse transformer secondary leads, reverse primary wires.

Closed pressure switch can be from dirty combustion vents, bad chamber pressure - like missing screws, maladjusted gas pressure, failing pressure switch, loose hoses, moisture in the hoses or fan blades The switch need to be closed to ge the unit to work

Jan 23, 2008 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

CGR1425...Burners work...No oven....i dont even mell any gas....no code on the touch pad!


The box with he wires is the spark module that controls the spark to the top. You will need to replace the igniter in the oven. Here is the part to order.

Jan 25, 2013 | Magic Chef CGR1425ADH Gas Range

1 Answer

Burner ignighter will not stop clicking. The burner is not lit, but the clicking will not stop


One of the 4 burner control switches on the front of each burner control valves has failed. Inside the thin ceramic switch there are 2 thin strips of copper that are pushed together by a rotating cam driven by the movement of the burner control knob. One of the thin strips is stuck together.
UNPLUG the unit and only plug it in briefly for testing.
The top has to be opened by removing all 4 burner caps and removing the 4 screws under the burner caps. Remove the caps completely but reconnect one burner cap and make sure it is grounded so you can test the igniter's. The gas burner tubing needs removed then the gas burner support has to be removed to gain access to these switches. To remove the wires from the switch you have to use a jewelers screwdriver to release the 2 wires from the switch one at a time. The switches are in series parallel so if one switch is stuck all 4 igniter's pop. To read out the switches you have to remove at least one wire from each switch and insert a short test wire to read for continuity, The switch that has continuity with the burner control switch OFF is the failed switch.
NOTE: the yellow and orange wires need to be insulated during testing. I use a folded paper bag or torn off strips of a cardboard box Just test briefly....
The part number for the switch is 7403P190-60 (Image search)
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Switch/7403P190-60/2326

There are numerous sources for the switch.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Jul 24, 2011 | Magic Chef Ovens

1 Answer

I AM REPLACING THE HEADER IN H250FDN HEATER. NEW HEADER INSTRUCTIONS MATCH OLD HEADER AND NUMBERS MATCH ON OLD AND NEW BUT NEW HEADER IS DIFFERENT. OLD HEADER HAS 2 LIMIT ON BOTTOM NEW ONE HAS 1 ON BOTTOM...


As long as it still has 2 hi limit switches, this will be easy.

You will need one wire going from one limit switch to the other. (on any terminal)
take either of the incoming wires from the old limit wiring and connect to second terminal on either limit switch.
Now take the last remaining wire and connect ot to the last terminal on the second limit switch.

Basically, you are just creating a bridge. Power will go into first limit switch, then go into the second limit switch via the first wire indicated above. Then the power will go back out to the pc board. If a high limit switch trips, then power is cut off (cicuit opens) and it tells the cpu there is a problem and shuts down the heater.

So to simplify: connect the wire in between the two limit switches. Then put the other 2 wires anywhere.

May 04, 2011 | Hayward 250fdn Low Nox Nat Gas Swimming...

1 Answer

The water heater red light keeps flashing rapidly on my Powervent 2 model 41VRP40N. It is not producing hot water and when I read the manual it says it needs more heat. What does this mean. How do I fix...


There are many things to check. The single most important test is for 24V at the gas valve after the ignitor is supposed tp be on. 19 V or less and there is either a bad ground or the ingition control board has failed. (Wire ground problems are a high probablilty)

Here is what the book says:

PROBLEM #1 - HOT SURFACE IGNITOR DOES NOT GLOW RED

(Remember to wait for purge time, 17/34 seconds, on models so equipped).

Possible causes

A. No main power

B. Faulty transformer

C. Faulty thermostat

D. Faulty limit switch

E. Faulty blower interlock switch

F. Faulty hot surface ignitor

G. Faulty ignition control

Solution

Step #1

Perform normal system checks of main power, transformer, thermostat, limit

switch, blower interlock switch, and replace faulty component.

Step #2

With power on and thermostat set at its highest position, check voltage

between "TH" and "TR" on HS780 ignition control. If 24 volts is not present

check output at transformer. If no, replace transformer. If transformer

checks out OK look at other controls in the 24 volt circuit I.E.: thermostat,

limit switch, blower interlock switch. Check for 120 volts between "neut"

(L2) and "120" (L1). Check for 120 volts at the ignitor across "IGN" and

"IGN" terminals on the HS780 ignition module. If 120 volts is present,
replace ignitor. If no, replace the 780 series module

PROBLEM #2 - IGNITOR GLOWS RED BUT MAIN BURNER

WOULDN'T LIGHT

Possible causes

A. Improper ignitor alignment

B. Faulty ignition control

C. Faulty gas valve

D. High inlet gas pressure

E. Polarity reversed

F. No earth ground

Solution

Step #1

Check for availability of gas at gas valve. Make sure the manual valve

upstream of the gas valve and the gas valve are in the full on position. Also

make sure gas is being supplied to the system at the proper pressure, too

high will lock-up the valve.

Step #2

Check proper polarity of "NEUT" and "120" on the ignition control by reversing

the wires, if reversed gas valve will not open. If this does not solve the

problem, replace wires as they were.

Step #3

Check for proper ignitor position.

Step #4

Check for a good earth ground by using a meter connected between L1

and furnace chassis. Should read 120 volts, if no, check and/or repair ignition
ground wire or ignition control mounting screws.
CAUTION POLARITY MUST BE OBSERVED

Step #5

Check for 24 volts at the gas valve terminals; "1" and "2" on a 7200 series,

"M" and "C" on a 7100 series, "TH" and "TR" on a 7000 series. If yes,

check wire integrity or change the gas valve. If no, change the 780 series
ignition module.

That is pretty much all of the troubleshooting required.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Feb 14, 2011 | Rheem 40 Gallon FVR NATGAS Low WATER...

1 Answer

My Hayward H250 pool and spa heater will not fire up. The mode light is not illuminated.


The H250 pool heater has several normally closed safety switches, also called permissives. All permissives need to in the closed position before the controller can initiate ignition. If one or more of the permissives are open, the controller will not initiate ignition (the yellow light will be extinguished on some models, some models have no lights, some models use other displays to indicate faults).

CAUTION: Power, gas and the water pump should be turned off before attempting to repair your H250 pool heater.

CAUTION: The H250 pool heater is essentially a gas furnace. Only qualified technicians with the proper training and tools should attempt to repair your pool heater.

In most H250 models there are 5 permissives, at least one thermostat or temperature monitor/controller, and system on/off switch. Some models use municipal power, some do not. For a heater connected to a power source, of course the power source needs to be active before the system will operate. For those without a power source, the system is powered by a millivolt circuit that originates from the thermocouple on the pilot. The pilot flame generates enough energy via the thermocouple to operate the combustion safety and control circuit.

Now on to troubleshooting: Based on your comment of "mode light is no illuminated", I assume you have a system with a yellow and green LED indicator. This system is powered by municipal power and uses an ignitor/flame detector rather than a pilot. The yellow LED signifies the heater is powered and all permissives are active (ON), in other words, the heater is ready for operation. If the yellow LED is off, either municipal power has been turned off, or one or more of the permissives is/are inactive (OFF). The green LED signified the control system has opened the gas valve and combustion is active. The green LED cannot be ON unless the yellow LED is ON.

Based on your comments, I assume you have already checked your municipal power and it is ON. If indeed your yellow LED is off, at least one of your five permissives is inactive (OFF). These five devices are switches that monitor the operation of the heater. In normal operation, they are in closed position, allowing current to flow. If the pre-determined limit has been overcome, the switch will go to open, which will disconnect the entire control system and turn off the gas valve. Normally the device will return to it's normal state of ON once the limit is back under its pre-determined limit. There is one exception -- a manually resettable limit switch monitoring the combustion chamber for high temperature limit. If tripped, this switch has indicated temperature in the combustion chamber has exceeded the manufacturer's limit for the chamber. Even though this switch can be manually reset, one must take care to check the combustion system for the root cause. Once reset, the condition that caused the temperature overlimit may still exist, in which case there is a malfunction of the heater that needs critical attention. The resettable temperature switch is located behind the lower access panel, toward the right side of lower section. To reset, press the small button in the middle of the switch.

If the resettable temperature switch has not been tripped, then either one of the 5 permissive devices has malfunctioned or the wiring between them has become damaged or disconnected. Here is the list of the permissives:

2 - High water temperature limiters (located on front and rear of the water header)
2 - Combustion chamber temperature limiters (1 resettable as above, the other is not resettable. It is located on the left side.)
1 - Water pressure monitor (located in the water path, in the upper section of the heater). This switch should be ON when water is flowing through the heater.

Each of these devices can be checked with an OHM meter. When the heater is off, all the temperature switches should be in the ON state. When the pump is on, the water pressure monitor should be in the ON state. If any of these devices do not preform properly, it needs to be replaced.

Wiring for the permissive devices is in series -- that is to say, all devices must be ON to allow current to flow and the gas valve to open. The permissive wire string begins on the terminal block as a RED wire, passing through the first water temperature limit switch to a VIO wire, then through the second water temperature limit switch to a BLU wire, then through the water pressure switch to a VIO wire, then through the non-resettable combustion temperature switch to a BLK wire, then through the resettable combustion temperature switch to a PUR wire, than back to the terminal block. When the heater is powered, 24VAC hot-side of the transformer connects directly to the first permissive (RED wire). If 24VAC is not present, then the 24VAC transformer has malfunctioned and needs to be replaced (or there is a broken wire (GRY) coming from the transformer to the terminal block ).

When 24VAC if present and all the permissives are active, the yellow LED will illuminate. This is the signal to the controller that combustion can be initiated.

(It is possible that the yellow LED has malfunctioned, but this would not stop the controller from operating the combustion process. If the yellow LED is OFF and the combustion process will not initiate, the malfunction will likely be found in the permissive string.)

Feb 05, 2011 | Hayward 250kbtu Ng Pool Heater - Inground

1 Answer

There's no high voltage ,thus no magnetron activity


check the ceramic fuse in the primary circuitry as it probably blew out when the primary connection arced and burned through

Mar 23, 2010 | Magic Chef MCD1110ST Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Dayton Heater M/N 3E227E


Hard to believe they sell a retrofit kit for a Gas furnace to a Customer....This is ahrd to advise you on with out seeing the schematic and if it is indeed intended for that furnace....the Spark mounting location is CRITICAL for safety so make sure that is correct above all.....OK The wire coming off the transformer and tied to the red wire going to the heat excghanger would most likely be a High Limit switch...cuts the gas off if the blower doesnt work etc or you would have a fire...so this switch must be in series with the transformer to cut power when the switch opens....the wire MV/PV coming from the "Electronic control box" needs to go to the New Gas Valve you should have which will have a termional marked MV/PV (Main valve/Pilot/valve) as your old one was for a standing pilot application and when you have electronic ignition you req a Gas valve for Intermittent pilot .....you should also have 2 more terminals on the valve MV and PV which will have seperate lines from the ignition control as well....basicvally there will be another wire coming from MV/PV going back to the transformer...make sure all wiring is correct and I would strongly advise you have a technician check your work before you attempt to use it....if wired incorrectly you could have a serious delayed ignition as its possible to power the main burner instead of the pilot if you wire it up wrong below is a typical spark wiring diagram....may not apply totally to your system but it will give you the general idea79f9627.gif

Oct 31, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

Not finding what you are looking for?
Heating & Cooling Logo

Related Topics:

302 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Heating & Cooling Experts

paulcarew

Level 3 Expert

2458 Answers

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8220 Answers

Donni Steen

Level 3 Expert

659 Answers

Are you a Heating and Cooling Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...