Question about Heating & Cooling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Yes, the flame sensor is part of the intermittent pilot assembly. Check the following: make sure all grounding wires are secure and no corrosion is built up on them. Clean or replace the pilot assembly, also clean out the orifice with a very small drill. Make sure the sensor is in the flame and make sure the pilot tube is not leaking gas reducing the gas pressure at the pilot.
If it continues, you will have to replace the ignition control.
Posted on Nov 26, 2007
SOURCE: Dayton Heater M/N 3E227E
Hard to believe they sell a retrofit kit for a Gas furnace to a Customer....This is ahrd to advise you on with out seeing the schematic and if it is indeed intended for that furnace....the Spark mounting location is CRITICAL for safety so make sure that is correct above all.....OK The wire coming off the transformer and tied to the red wire going to the heat excghanger would most likely be a High Limit switch...cuts the gas off if the blower doesnt work etc or you would have a fire...so this switch must be in series with the transformer to cut power when the switch opens....the wire MV/PV coming from the "Electronic control box" needs to go to the New Gas Valve you should have which will have a termional marked MV/PV (Main valve/Pilot/valve) as your old one was for a standing pilot application and when you have electronic ignition you req a Gas valve for Intermittent pilot .....you should also have 2 more terminals on the valve MV and PV which will have seperate lines from the ignition control as well....basicvally there will be another wire coming from MV/PV going back to the transformer...make sure all wiring is correct and I would strongly advise you have a technician check your work before you attempt to use it....if wired incorrectly you could have a serious delayed ignition as its possible to power the main burner instead of the pilot if you wire it up wrong below is a typical spark wiring diagram....may not apply totally to your system but it will give you the general idea
Posted on Oct 31, 2009
SOURCE: Lakewood heater 7101 schematic
The power cord goes the switch terminal 1 and 3.
Terminal 2 must be the opposite of terminal 1, such that when switched on, 1 & 2 connects. Terminal 4 must be the opposite of terminal 3, such that 3 & 4 connects.
Under this setup, you may connect red to terminal 2
and black to terminal 4.
Be sure of the 1 & 2 pair, as well as the 3 & 4 pair.
then, connect the red and black wires.
Hope this will help you.
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
Did you clean the sensor with a piece of sand paper? Then wipe it with a dollar bill. The bill has a fire proof like chemical on it. Rubbing it on the sensor will coat it and keep it cean longer. If this dont work let me know
Posted on Mar 21, 2010
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PROBLEM #1 - HOT SURFACE IGNITOR DOES NOT GLOW RED
(Remember to wait for purge time, 17/34 seconds, on models so equipped).
A. No main power
B. Faulty transformer
C. Faulty thermostat
D. Faulty limit switch
E. Faulty blower interlock switch
F. Faulty hot surface ignitor
G. Faulty ignition control
Perform normal system checks of main power, transformer, thermostat, limit
switch, blower interlock switch, and replace faulty component.
With power on and thermostat set at its highest position, check voltage
between "TH" and "TR" on HS780 ignition control. If 24 volts is not present
check output at transformer. If no, replace transformer. If transformer
checks out OK look at other controls in the 24 volt circuit I.E.: thermostat,
limit switch, blower interlock switch. Check for 120 volts between "neut"
(L2) and "120" (L1). Check for 120 volts at the ignitor across "IGN" and
"IGN" terminals on the HS780 ignition module. If 120 volts is present,
replace ignitor. If no, replace the 780 series module
PROBLEM #2 - IGNITOR GLOWS RED BUT MAIN BURNER
A. Improper ignitor alignment
B. Faulty ignition control
C. Faulty gas valve
D. High inlet gas pressure
E. Polarity reversed
F. No earth ground
Check for availability of gas at gas valve. Make sure the manual valve
upstream of the gas valve and the gas valve are in the full on position. Also
make sure gas is being supplied to the system at the proper pressure, too
high will lock-up the valve.
Check proper polarity of "NEUT" and "120" on the ignition control by reversing
the wires, if reversed gas valve will not open. If this does not solve the
problem, replace wires as they were.
Check for proper ignitor position.
Check for a good earth ground by using a meter connected between L1
and furnace chassis. Should read 120 volts, if no, check and/or repair ignition
ground wire or ignition control mounting screws.
CAUTION POLARITY MUST BE OBSERVED
Check for 24 volts at the gas valve terminals; "1" and "2" on a 7200 series,
"M" and "C" on a 7100 series, "TH" and "TR" on a 7000 series. If yes,
check wire integrity or change the gas valve. If no, change the 780 series
That is pretty much all of the troubleshooting required.
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