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Adjusting carb on husqvarna chain saw

The H & L needle valves on my husqvarna 51 chainsw need to be out several turns to get it to run. it than runs fine until you try to cut with it and than it bogs down. Everything i have read indicated the needle valves only need to be turned out 1 or 2 turns. Problem?

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Hi First turn them(H and L) clock wise until the end and then adjust.

high speed H=3/4 turn

lowspeed L=1 1/4 turn

idle speed T adjust accordingly

best regards savumihai71

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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2 needle adjusters? one should be marked L & the other H.I hope you removed them for cleaning. Re-install them turn to the right until they stop.Then back them out [ counter clock wise] 1 & 1/2 turns is a good guess to start from. try to start,you will need some patience for this as it is trial & error.Keep tweaking them until it runs. once you get it running the one marked L is low speed or Idle H is the high speed. Tweak them while its running for best performance. I just went through this yesterday with a john deere 2 stroke and ended up at about 1 turn out from full stop on the needle adjustments. I also did this with the air filter off so I could see when flooding was happening. When it did I had some compressed air to blast the excess fuel away. good luck

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Find the gas/air adjustment screws on the carb (next to the the throttle cam where the throttle cable attaches. Turn the screws in all the way... GENTLY... Those are needle valves, and too much torque on them will damage the needle valve seats. turn both of them out one and a quarter to one and a half turns. Start the saw, and adjust one or the other screw in or out until the saw runs properly. If there is a plastic stop installed on the screws, remove it first, and replace it after the saw is running properly. You have to be patient while tuning the carb as it may take a while. If you adjust too much and the saw refuses to start at all, start over with the 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns out on the screws.

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Turn both H and L jet needles CW to stops (lightly), then back out 1-1/2 turns each CCW. This is a basic setting and will be rich. Start the engine and allow to warm up. Pull the throttle full on and turn the H needle CW until the engine starts to speed up, but continues to 4-stroke. Final adjustment is when the engine 4-strokes at speed with no load, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Release the throttle and allow to idle. Turn the L jet needle CW until the engine idles fairly well, but still allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Idle speed screw should be adjusted to keep the engine idling, but the chain should not try to turn. Hope this helps!

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Does it run O.K. with high revs. with no load, but dies when you start to cut (load) ? If that is the case your carb. needs to be adjusted and that is difficult to put into words. Without knowing what make of carb you have because they can change from year to year, and also depends on the model. Without knowing make of carb I suggest you try to turn the L (low) and H (high) needles in (clockwise) until they are lightly seated so you don't damage the needle or seat. Now turn them both out (counterclockwise) one turn as a start. Start your saw to let it warm up now rev it up it should not hesitate or run rough while reving up. If it does turn low needle out 1/4 turn or more if needed until it does not hesitate. (turning any needle out will let in more gas turning in less gas) If you get this far good idling and reving up, now adjust high needle the same way. With high needle you can also try turning it in. keep on adjusting needles in or out in small increments until it runs right. If you cannot get it running right after all this, you probably need a carb overhaul, just a cleaning or carb kit if diaphrams are stiff or damaged. I hope this helps you. Please forgive grammar errors. Let me know how you made out.

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Sounds like a fouled needle seat, or the float bowl is failing.

Start with:

Pulling your Carb, and cleaning it out. COMPLETELY.
A ton of people think "a shot of carb cleaner, and a gasket kit" is a carb fix. It is NOT, and WILL NOT fix a carb, if the problem isn't gaskets, and shots of cleaner!

Meaning, if she is running too rich, then too much fuel (as you said), and fouling plugs, remember there are only a VERY few things in the carb anyway as it is.

1. Needle Seat
2. Fuel Float Bowl
3. Butterflies
4. Fuel Ports
5. Air Ports
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My advice: (This assumes you HAVE NOT ADJUSTED YOUR CARB OUT OF DEFAULT!)

Pull the carb (Carefully!) and tear it COMPLETELY down (Carefully!). Note where stuff went, take your time, be patient.

When you have everything but the butterfly plates out, run some Gum-Out through each and every port, after you made sure to pull the Float Bowl, and the Needle Valve (and remembered how they went back in there!). Take some compressed air, and follow through (CAREFULLY!) on each and every port. Clean the very TIP of the Needle Valve. Shake your plastic Float Bowl. Does it have liquid inside? She has a hole in her. REPLACE!

If not, then this exercise was cleaning crud/residue that is ALWAYS building up inside carbs in 2/4-stroke engines world wide, every day. NOW do a "carb gasket rebuild".

Note: Remember that sometimes, crud/junk is testy, and stubborn as a mule to get out. Double check any screens above/below your Needle Seat and Valve. Remember that Needle Valves come with solid tips, and some with rubber tips. Regardless, be careful, and clean thoroughly! A Needle Seat that isn't getting closed, is a Needle Valve that is letting WAY too much fuel in!

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