My wife noticed temp getting wormer and ic melting.
light comes on when you open door so there is power to the frig.
just thought i would cover the simple stuff first and the doors are closed all the way.
this is the first time this has happened.
we have owned the frig. for about 5 years.
can you help?
First you need to check if the compressor is working properly. Remove the rear panel and look for a cylinder with bunch of copper lines going in and out. feel those copper lines one of them should be warm and the other should be cold. Also you should hear the compressor working (pretty noisy) when the temperature in the freezer is not cold enough. If the lines are about same temperature and the compressor does not seem to work, the first place to check is the starter relay. Often the relay breaks. The part is WHIRLPOOL 2188830 2220475 RELAY. I found one on ebay.
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If you have a frost free refrigerator then temp jumps as you discribe are somewhat normal during a defrost cycle. However it sound like your defrost temp may be getting too high. There is a limit thermostat on the freezer coils that keep the defrost temp from getting too high. The part is called a (defrost termination thermostat) and is a round disk about 1 to 1.5 inch in diameter clipped to the top of the freezer coils with 2 wires coming out of it. When cold, it allows power to the defrost heaters. At around 35/40 degrees it opens and shuts off power to the heater. 35/40 degrees sounds high for a freezer temp but that is behind the wall and only for a short time. Yours may be staying on too long or out of temp calibration needing replaced.
if the freezers staying cold but not the refrige section,then its the damper vent door between the freezer and refrige section thats either frozen shut or the damper door motor is bad or without power,if nothings cold as in freezer and refrigerator sections,then its the ptc overload & relay on the compressor thats bad,unplug the ptc overload & relay off the side of the compressor and obtain an exact replacement and plug in the new replacement and it will again cool
. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm. You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
You will need to remove the bottom freezer crisper and check the defrost drain , to see if it is iced over . If so , then use a hairdryer to melt the ice ( hot water also helps ) . When you see the drain , ( could be obvious obstruction from plastic ) , use a small hose inserted into the hole , to blow thru , to remove any unseen debris blockage . You may have to remove the rear inside freezer panel to access this drain , depending on your model number .
So make sure the drainhole is open. When it happened to mine this was the problem.
I don't think the darkness is related to the fridge not being cool.
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper)
between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through
it.There is a flap you adjust with the
fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the
fridge temp OR ..
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer
are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of
cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In
most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board.
If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control. How to check
sounds like the evap thermistor took a ****. in the back of your freezer you have cover that sits over the refrigerator coil. under this coil sits a heater element that is turned on and off to defrost the refrigerator coil based on how long you've had the door open. the evap thermistor reads the temp inside the freezer.. close to the refrigerator coil.. and tells the heater element to turn off after it reaches a set temp where it can be sure that the ice has melted off the refrigeration coil which is about 60 deg. if your thermistor has taken a ****.. your heater element will only shut off based on the "fail safe" time (which is based on how long you've had your fridge door open) leading to a hot freezer.
i suspect your at home more on the weekend.. inside the fridge.. getting cold beers.. and that is why it ends up hotter on the weekend.
First, I think it’s important to know that the Ref side has no cooling coils, it’s basically a box and the cold air in the freezer is blown over by a fan through a channel into the Ref side. This channel has a door which regulates how much cold air goes through. You probably have two control knobs in the Ref side, one controls the temp with numbers 1-9, 9 being the coldest. This temp control tells the compressor how long to run. The other control is for that little door and it may have letters A-E, E being the coldest. If you set it on E (coldest) then this will close that little door and keep most the cold air in the freezer.
Now, why is that cold air not getting over to the Ref side? 1. The little door is not open. check your control setting. You should be able to feel air coming through the channel on the Ref side.
2. The fan in the freezer is not working. You can hear this fan running when you open the freezer.
3. The coils on the freezer side are clogged with ice which won't let the fan circulate the air over to the Ref side. This is a failure of the defrost system.
You can melt this ice manually for a temp fix but the defrost system needs to be checked. Turn it off, take everything out of the freezer, use a hair dryer to warm the back wall. Do this for as long as you can without anything thawing then put it back in, turn it on and you will be good for a couple of days.
nothing to do with light bulb - noise is probably fan hitting ice that has built up. to check, remove back panel inside freezer and check for ice build up. melt off with a hairdryer and get back to me if i'm right