Question about KitchenAid KUDE60FVSS 24 in Builtin Dishwasher
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Is your Kitchenaid Dishwasher a model KUDI02?
If yes, you need to order item 10 on the page link below:
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
SOURCE: Kitchenaid Superba Dishwasher
gagaweaver, couple of things you want to check here. Check the upper spray arm for any clogged holes or cracks along the edges. Position it in the 12:00 position and run the dishwasher for a little, open the door and verify that it has rotated. Make sure the water entering the dishwasher is min. 120 degrees, use a thermometer. Makes sure that there is no large pans or dishes blocking the upper spray arm from spraying onto the inner door. If all that checks out. You will have to remove the lower spray arm, filter cover and chopper cover to make sure the chopper screen is not coated or plugged up. If it is, it will prevent a good flow of water to the upper spray arm. Catriver..post back.
Posted on Mar 08, 2007
Check to see if power is getting to the motor. If it is then you have a bad motor. Is the motor making a noise? Some of that broken plastic could have got down into the pump and have it locked up.
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
The problem seems to be the loosening of the screws that hold the interior stainless steel skin to the door frame--not the latch.
With the door in the open position you should find a total of twelve screws (5 on each side and 2 on top at each side of the latch). The screws have a particular type of head which may require a trip to the hardware (its a $1,000 dishwasher take the time to get the right screwdriver). They are called TORX screws the size on my dishwasher was a T 15. These type of screw heads were designed to fit automated torque drivers at the factory that set the screws to the proper tension. So some care should be given when you retighten them. Turn until the screw is snug and there no movement of the inner door skin but don't over tighten. Giving it that extra 1/4 turn can be enough to strip the screw out and create a bigger problem.
Yes--you shouldn't have to be doing this to a KitchenAid appliance that cost this much--but I suspect that this will become a feature of periodic maintenance. The heating and cooling generates enough movement that overtime these screws work themselves out. My wife who was the once to make the right diagnosis noticed that the screws at the bottom were almost entirely out.
Posted on May 07, 2009
The water valve is either clogged or burned out. Easiest to check is whether it is burned out. Turn off power, remove kick panel, find where incoming water supply pipe attachs to valve and remove both wires to valve. Zero your ohmmeter and check for continuity across terminals. If it has continuity, valve is good. Use test meter to check for voltage from timer. Connect test meter leads to wires you removed, restore power, close door and put timer, or control panel, to where dishwasher should start filling. If there is 110 volts at the wires to the water valve, the valve is clogged. If there is no voltage, the timer or control is bad and must be replaced.
Posted on Mar 03, 2010
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