Question about GE WDSR2080D Top Load Washer

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My top loader ge washer fills up with water but does not agitate

The timer sounds like its working but the agitator does not start.

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Open the loading door, place your hand on top of the agitator and turn clockwise then counter clockwise. If agitator turns freely in both directions and tub sits motionless either your agitator or the coupling that holds it to the transmission will need replaced. Usually it is the coupling but it's easy to tell by removing the agitator and performing same turning procedure on it. If it spins freely it is no good.

To remove the agitator firmly grasp the neck of it with both hands and yank straight up. Inspect the inside of the agitator, the ribs inside can take quite a beating but once they are badly flattened or in some cases nearly completely shaved away then it will have to be replaced. Last I knew this was the style GE now recommends for that machine: WH43X139 . If you see signs of oil say, "Uh-oh." But continue anyway all is not lost.

Next you need to see if the coupler will spin (the most likely cause.) If it spins freely say, "Yea!" because that's one of the cheapest easiest repairs on this machine. That should be a 7/16 bolt that will need to be removed. I use a 1/4" ratchet and socket (No extension) or box end wrench and they usually give no trouble. But they are usually rusty so don't mess around with it. With your right hand apply firm downward pressure on top of the ratchet with the handle at nine oclock. Give it a nice firm bump with your left hand and it should break loose and usually spins right out. If it crumbles under the socket you'll have to use vice grips; no worries, a new bolt will come with part: WH49X10042. With nothing to hold it the coupling will slide right off. If removing because it spun, toss it in the trash, it is not recyclable.

Now you can see the top of your washer's transmission--remember the "Uh-oh?" If you saw a dark film of oil it came from here. But even if you didn't see oil reach down and grasp the splined part and see if it will wiggle back and forth. There should be no wiggle. If you look at the spline part you will see it goes into a slightly larger shaft. Right where it goes in there is a gasket that is not replaceable. If there is oil around it, or if you can see a gap in it, or if the spliny part wiggles side to side the transmission is shot. You can buy them NEW on ebay for $150 and less usually. Part number is: WH38X10002. It is not an easy job but if you've got tools and patience there is no reason i couldn't walk you through it.

But let's say your transmission looks fine and you just want to put that coupler back on and be done with it. Before replacing the coupler it is very important to clean the splines (little grooves) of the part it fits over really well. Each groove will have a plastic spline from the old coupler embedded in it. A wire brush or pocket screwdriver works well; they come out easy just make sure you get them all. Once you are satisfied the splines are nice and clean cover them with a thin layer of petroleum jelly. Place the new coupler on top and give it a twist to feel the splines line up then push down to seat it. Sometimes they seat pretty easy, sometimes not. Sometimes you have to screw in the bolt to get it that last little bit. I've even had to use a succession of longer to shorter bolts to seat them. Regardless, the cleaner you get the splines on the transmission the easier it will be to seat the coupler into place. Tighten the bolt by reversing the procedure to loosen. Place left hand firmly over the ratchet or wrench with handle at three oclock and snug it up then bump it good and hard with your right hand a couple of times. Clean any debris on the bottom of the tub now. Then pick up the agitator and place it over the coupler, but first notice the coupler has twin grooves evenly spaced along it's sides. Likewise the agitator has ridges that fit into the grooves of the coupler. Under each fin of the agitator is a set of ridges, so line a fin of the agitator up with the grooves of the coupler and try to seat the agitator. You will meet resistance if they aren't lined up so just keep trying it will practically fall into place when it's right. You will know when it is seated properly but give it a slight tug upwards just to verify, if it stays in place you are done.

Posted on Jan 03, 2013

  • B.H. Countryman Jan 04, 2013

    If the agitator seems okay let me know.



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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: GE washer won't agitate

I had this same problem with our GE top load washer.  I just needed to pull harder.  (Note: The agitator is held in place by about a dozen L-shaped clips in a ring around the agitator's base that will release more as you pull harder on the agitator.)  Everything from the base below the large fins on up comes out together.  Grab the shaft above the fins and pull slowly and hard. I had to take the entire tub out, lay it on the porch, put my feet inside of it, and pull the agitator assembly out.  I wasn't able to pull it out while it was still in the washer.  BE CAREFUL! DON'T **** IT OUT; that might injure your back; just pull out slowly and as hard as you can without hurting yourself.  I was able to get it out successfully, but I am currently stuck at removing the bell below the agitator.  Good luck!

Posted on Feb 28, 2009

  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: GE Washer agitates when I try to fill it up with water,wont fill

You have a bad water level switch or a clogged plastic hose that goes to the water level switch.
Use a putty knife to open the front panel. The clips are at the top right and left sides just below the top lid. Push in on the clips and pull out on the panel.
On the left side of the tub you will see the air dome with aplastic hose connected.
Remove the hose and insert a small wire into the air dome hole to clean it out ouf soap scum. Then, blow through the hose and listen for a faint click in the water level switch. Also check the hose for a hole or being pinched.
The set the timer for spin and run a spin cycle then retry the water level and wash cycle.

Posted on Apr 01, 2009

  • 744 Answers

SOURCE: GE washer GNSR2140A0WW wont spin/agitate but fills and drains

Hello, your problem is going to be with the lids switch, in this machine it is going to be a magnetic contact. You can confirm this my pulling the front panel off and accessing the wireing to the lids switch, If you have electrical knowledge bypass the lid switch using a wire nut and run the machine. If all is ok make sure you relpace the lid switch since it is there for a reason. If you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to comment again. Good Luck!!!

Posted on Jul 19, 2009

  • 612 Answers

SOURCE: ge profile washer WPSR3100W1WW won't agitate

I see this pretty regular. You have a bad transmission. This is very common with the older GE's. To replace the transmission will run around $340 / $400. Not sure about your area. Just be glad you got this much use out of it, you are one of the very few that have. From 1998 till 2007 I owned my on repair company where I did GE's warranty work in my area for them. During that time period. When I found a GE washer under warranty doing what you are describing. GE would warranty the whole machine. They would have me destroy the machine after I would deliver the customer a band new one. GE knows they had a bad transmission and it cost them a lot of money. It was cheaper for them to replace the washer than have me repair it. The transmission list price was $298.00 back then. A word of advice, when you replace it. Buy a Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag. These brands hold up the best. I have the least service calls for Whirlpool and Kenmore. Both are made by the same people. Kenmore is made for Sears. Good Luck.
Please rate this solution if helpful. Thanks

Posted on Aug 21, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE Profile wpre6100gowt, wont agitate or spin

same problem

Posted on Sep 06, 2009

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