Question about Kenmore Washing Machines

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Looking for manual/parts diagram for kenmore 970-C45192-30

Began leaking when reconnected hoses after moving to new location. water all over. Where to get parts for this model?

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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yalmer
  • 549 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore front load washer Model 970-C40042-00

Click this link.
They will have a manual for you.

Posted on Apr 02, 2008

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jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore washer

No need to remove the back panel on this model. You can access everything by removing the washer cabinet. Here's how:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

NOTE: The washer will NOT operate with the lid switch connector unplugged. If you wish to attempt to test the washer for leaks with the casing removed, you will need to by-pass the lid switch. This can be accomplished by jumpering the two black wires together at the lid switch receptacle. CAUTION: DO NOT attempt to jumper the wires with the washer plugged in! Attach jumper, then plug the washer in.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

Now, you stated your washer leaks during the rinse cycle. Double check all hose connections on the water pump (located directly in front under the wash tub). The pumps have also been known to start leaking along the seams. NOTE: If the pump leaks, it is NOT serviceable and must be replaced. They do not come apart.


To re-install washer case:

1. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.

I know it seems like a lot, but it is an easy process if you take your time and follow the steps as written. Let me know if you need further assistance.

Posted on May 12, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 80 series lid switch

The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch DOES require replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, repairclinic.com or appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All three sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all three for the best price. If you still need assistance, please contact me and let me know. If my diagnosis is not correct, please post back and elaborate a bit more so I can assist you further. If your washer is not configured this way, or if you still have questions, please let me know.

Posted on May 11, 2009

megarza
  • 88 Answers

SOURCE: need to instructions on how to stack a kenmore

to stack you will need the stacking kit. It can be order through Sears Parts/Product Repair Service department.

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore frontload clothes washer (Canadaian

Wow! Mine also looks just like this - a large hole in the back of the spin basket. Same timing too - about 59 months for me.  All of a sudden, during the spin cycle we heard a huge bang,...and then the banging continued. There is no way I'm spending $200 + labor to get his fixed. If the part is only going to last 5 years, then I may as well go ahead and get a new washer....and it definitely won't be this make or model! 

Posted on Dec 20, 2009

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The washer was leaking water not sure where from But now it doesn't work. The water runs for about 20 seconds and then stops. The sensor light comes on and the lid light blinks.


Don't panic when the washing machine starts leaking water all over the floor! You can usually fix the problem yourself within and hour or two at a fraction of the cost of calling a service technician. And only rarely will you have to purchase a new machine. CAUTION! Unplug the machine before performing any repairs.


26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-0.jpg

Figure A: Common leak locations

These are the six most-commons places for washing machine leaks.

Figure A shows where the most common washer leaks occur. We cover hose, pump and tub leaks, but there may be additional problem areas specific to your brand of machine. There are two types of washing machines: belt drive and direct drive. If you open up the cabinet and don't find any belts, then you've got a direct-drive machine. Repairs are similar for both machines, but generally easier on the direct-drive unit. The following photos are from a belt-drive washing machine. If you have a direct drive, refer to your owner's manual or diagrams (see "Buying Parts") for brand-specific details.
Tip: Make sure the water on the floor isn't the result of a plugged floor drain. It happens!

Replace leaky supply hoses
26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-2.jpg The first step is to locate the source of the leak. Empty the washing machine, move it away from the wall and start the fill cycle. Look for drips around the water supply hose connection at the back of the machine while it fills with water. Shut off the water and replace any old, heavily corroded or rusted hoses with new ones (photo). If the hoses are in good shape, replace the internal washers only. Special no-burst hoses, regular hoses and new hose washers are available at home centers and hardware stores.

Replace leaky internal hoses

26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-5.jpg
If the supply hoses aren't leaking, open the cabinet and inspect the internal components. Belt-drive machines typically have a rear access panel that unscrews. Access direct drive machines by removing the two screws on the outside of the control panel and flipping up the lid. Then pry up the cabinet clips and pull off the entire cabinet. With the cabinet open, restart the fill cycle to check for internal leaks (Photo 1). Look for additional clues like rust and calcium deposits. Most often you'll find the leaks in the spots we show in Figure A.
Hoses tend to leak around a worn-out spring clamp. First try to remove the spring clamp with an adjustable pliers. If you can't get it, you'll need a special hose clamp pliers (Photo 2) available from your local parts supplier. Replace the old spring clamp with a new worm-drive clamp (photo below). If the hose itself is cracked and leaking, remove it and take it to the appliance parts supplier for a replacement.

Replace a leaky pump

26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-9.jpg

Photo 1: Loose the bolts

Loosen the two motor mounting bolts to relieve tension on the belt. One will be at the rear of the cabinet and the other is nearby.
The pump usually leaks around the pulley seal (see Photo 3). If you spot water leaking from this spot, the pump is shot and will have to be replaced.
To replace the pump, work from underneath the machine. Unplug the machine and tip it up against the wall. Block up the front with a car jack or 2x4s so it can't tip over while you reach underneath. Replace the pump as shown in Photos 1 - 4. If the belt is darkened from burning or is worn down to the threads, replace it, too.

Replace worn-out tub fittings
26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-14.jpg

Photo 1: Lift the lid

Slide a small putty knife between the washer lid and the cabinet. Push the putty knife against the spring catch while lifting up on the lid. Release both catches and fold the lid back.
The most challenging repair is fixing a leaking tub fitting, whether it's the air dome seal, the center post gasket or the tub seals. (See Figure A and photos for locations.) Before proceeding, make sure that telltale drips are coming from around the tub. The details of this repair vary by brand and model. The details we show are for most Whirlpool and Kenmore belt drives. Study a schematic drawing or consult a parts specialist if your machine is different from what we show.
You'll need a special spanner wrench (Photo 4) to remove the tub and replace the tub fittings on this type of machine. It's available at your local appliance parts supplier. Follow Photos 1 - 5 to access the tub fittings. You can open the top of many machines by releasing the spring catches (Photo 1). However, on others you have to unscrew several screws and lift off the entire cabinet. Look in your owner's manual or at a parts diagram. (See the manufacturer's Web site or one of the sites listed in "Buying Parts.") You'll have to unscrew the water inlet and the tub snubber (Photo 1) before unclipping the ring (Photo 2). Fastening systems for these vary by brand, as do attachment methods for the agitator (Photo 3) and inner tub (Photo 4).
There are four tub seals that secure the outer tub to the cabinet, each consisting of a bolt with a rubber and metal washer. Rust often develops around one of the tub seals, causing a tub leak. A new tub seal kit will come with four new bolts and oversized rubber and metal washers that will seal small leaks (Photo 6). But if the tub is completely rusted through around the bolt, it's time to buy a new washing machine. Replace all four tub seals as shown in Photo 6.
If the leaking occurs only when the machine is agitating, a bad center post gasket ("doughnut") is the culprit. Remove the outer tub to replace the center post gasket (Photos 8 and 9). While you're at it, replace the air dome seal as well (Photo 8). Reassemble the washing machine and run a test cycle.


26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-20.jpg Buying Appliance Parts Washing machine parts are available at appliance parts distributors. (Look in the Yellow Pages under "Appliance Parts.") Try to find a parts supplier with well-informed staff, ideally ex-repair technicians, who can provide diagrams and help diagnose any problems specific to your brand of machine. A great Internet source is http://promotionssales.weebly.com/ find your model number to access exploded-view diagrams and a thorough parts list for easy on-line ordering.
You'll need the brand and model number for proper part identification. Model numbers are usually stamped on a small metal plate located under the tub lid or on the side or back of the machine. Copy down all the plate information and take it along to the parts distributor.

Aug 27, 2016 | Washing Machines

Tip

How to repair washing machine easily


Figure A: Common leak locations
These are the six most-commons places for washing machine leaks.
Figure A shows where the most common washer leaks occur. We cover hose, pump and tub leaks, but there may be additional problem areas specific to your brand of machine. There are two types of washing machines: belt drive and direct drive. If you open up the cabinet and don't find any belts, then you've got a direct-drive machine. Repairs are similar for both machines, but generally easier on the direct-drive unit. The following photos are from a belt-drive washing machine. If you have a direct drive, refer to your owner's manual or diagrams (see "Buying Parts") for brand-specific details.
Tip: Make sure the water on the floor isn't the result of a plugged floor drain. It happens!
Back to Top
Replace leaky supply hoses
Unscrew the water supply hoses
Turn off the water main or shutoff valve and unscrew the supply hoses from the back of the machine with an adjustable pliers. Pry out the old hose washers with a flat-blade screwdriver. Install new gaskets in both hoses and reconnect the supply lines. " title="Unscrew the water supply hoses " style="box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(66, 139, 202); text-decoration: none; bottom: 6px; height: 16px; position: absolute; right: 22px; width: 65px; background: url(http://www.familyhandyman.com/images/ProjectDetails/step_by_step/enlarge_button.gif) 0px -16px no-repeat scroll rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);">
Unscrew the water supply hoses
Turn off the water main or shutoff valve and unscrew the supply hoses from the back of the machine with an adjustable pliers. Pry out the old hose washers with a flat-blade screwdriver. Install new gaskets in both hoses and reconnect the supply lines.
The first step is to locate the source of the leak. Empty the washing machine, move it away from the wall and start the fill cycle. Look for drips around the water supply hose connection at the back of the machine while it fills with water. Shut off the water and replace any old, heavily corroded or rusted hoses with new ones (photo). If the hoses are in good shape, replace the internal washers only. Special no-burst hoses, regular hoses and new hose washers are available at home centers and hardware stores.
CAUTION!
Unplug the machine before performing any repairs.
Back to Top
Replace leaky internal hoses
Photo 1: Look inside the machine
Unscrew the access panel from the back of the machine or open the cabinet. Look for leaks while the machine fills with water. If you don't see any, advance the machine to the agitate cycle and check again. " title="Photo 1: Look inside the machine" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(66, 139, 202); text-decoration: none; bottom: 6px; height: 16px; position: absolute; right: 22px; width: 65px; background: url(http://www.familyhandyman.com/images/ProjectDetails/step_by_step/enlarge_button.gif) 0px -16px no-repeat scroll rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);">
Photo 1: Look inside the machine
Unscrew the access panel from the back of the machine or open the cabinet. Look for leaks while the machine fills with water. If you don't see any, advance the machine to the agitate cycle and check again.
If the supply hoses aren't leaking, open the cabinet and inspect the internal components. Belt-drive machines typically have a rear access panel that unscrews. Access direct drive machines by removing the two screws on the outside of the control panel and flipping up the lid. Then pry up the cabinet clips and pull off the entire cabinet. With the cabinet open, restart the fill cycle to check for internal leaks (Photo 1). Look for additional clues like rust and calcium deposits. Most often you'll find the leaks in the spots we show in Figure A.
Hoses tend to leak around a worn-out spring clamp. First try to remove the spring clamp with an adjustable pliers. If you can't get it, you'll need a special hose clamp pliers (Photo 2) available from your local parts supplier. Replace the old spring clamp with a new worm-drive clamp (photo below). If the hose itself is cracked and leaking, remove it and take it to the appliance parts supplier for a replacement.
Back to Top
Replace a leaky pump
Photo 1: Loose the bolts
Loosen the two motor mounting bolts to relieve tension on the belt. One will be at the rear of the cabinet and the other is nearby. " title="Photo 1: Loose the bolts" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(66, 139, 202); text-decoration: none; bottom: 6px; height: 16px; position: absolute; right: 22px; width: 65px; background: url(http://www.familyhandyman.com/images/ProjectDetails/step_by_step/enlarge_button.gif) 0px -16px no-repeat scroll rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);">
Photo 1: Loose the bolts
Loosen the two motor mounting bolts to relieve tension on the belt. One will be at the rear of the cabinet and the other is nearby.
The pump usually leaks around the pulley seal (see Photo 3). If you spot water leaking from this spot, the pump is shot and will have to be replaced.
To replace the pump, work from underneath the machine. Unplug the machine and tip it up against the wall. Block up the front with a car jack or 2x4s so it can't tip over while you reach underneath. Replace the pump as shown in Photos 1 - 4. If the belt is darkened from burning or is worn down to the threads, replace it, too.
Back to Top
Replace worn-out tub fittings
Photo 1: Lift the lid
Slide a small putty knife between the washer lid and the cabinet. Push the putty knife against the spring catch while lifting up on the lid. Release both catches and fold the lid back. " title="Photo 1: Lift the lid" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(66, 139, 202); text-decoration: none; bottom: 6px; height: 16px; position: absolute; right: 22px; width: 65px; background: url(http://www.familyhandyman.com/images/ProjectDetails/step_by_step/enlarge_button.gif) 0px -16px no-repeat scroll rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);">
Photo 1: Lift the lid
Slide a small putty knife between the washer lid and the cabinet. Push the putty knife against the spring catch while lifting up on the lid. Release both catches and fold the lid back.
The most challenging repair is fixing a leaking tub fitting, whether it's the air dome seal, the center post gasket or the tub seals. (See Figure A and photos for locations.) Before proceeding, make sure that telltale drips are coming from around the tub. The details of this repair vary by brand and model. The details we show are for most Whirlpool and Kenmore belt drives. Study a schematic drawing or consult a parts specialist if your machine is different from what we show.
You'll need a special spanner wrench (Photo 4) to remove the tub and replace the tub fittings on this type of machine. It's available at your local appliance parts supplier. Follow Photos 1 - 5 to access the tub fittings. You can open the top of many machines by releasing the spring catches (Photo 1). However, on others you have to unscrew several screws and lift off the entire cabinet. Look in your owner's manual or at a parts diagram. (See the manufacturer's Web site or one of the sites listed in "Buying Parts.") You'll have to unscrew the water inlet and the tub snubber (Photo 1) before unclipping the ring (Photo 2). Fastening systems for these vary by brand, as do attachment methods for the agitator (Photo 3) and inner tub (Photo 4).
There are four tub seals that secure the outer tub to the cabinet, each consisting of a bolt with a rubber and metal washer. Rust often develops around one of the tub seals, causing a tub leak. A new tub seal kit will come with four new bolts and oversized rubber and metal washers that will seal small leaks (Photo 6). But if the tub is completely rusted through around the bolt, it's time to buy a new washing machine. Replace all four tub seals as shown in Photo 6.
If the leaking occurs only when the machine is agitating, a bad center post gasket ("doughnut") is the culprit. Remove the outer tub to replace the center post gasket (Photos 8 and 9). While you're at it, replace the air dome seal as well (Photo 8). Reassemble the washing machine and run a test cycle.
Buying Appliance Parts
Washing machine parts are available at appliance parts distributors. (Look in the Yellow Pages under "Appliance Parts.") Try to find a parts supplier with well-informed staff, ideally ex-repair technicians, who can provide diagrams and help diagnose any problems specific to your brand of machine. A great Internet source iswww.searspartsdirect.com. Enter your model number to access exploded-view diagrams and a thorough parts list for easy on-line ordering.
You'll need the brand and model number for proper part identification. Model numbers are usually stamped on a small metal plate located under the tub lid or on the side or back of the machine. Copy down all the plate information and take it along to the parts distributor.
Metal ID plate
Back to Top
Tools & Materials
Required Tools for this Project
Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start-you'll save time and frustration.
Hammer
Socket/ratchet set
4-in-1 screwdriver
Adjustable wrench
Putty knife
Slip joint pliers


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on Jul 14, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Why is my Kenmore Energy Star 50 pint model 251-50501012 dehumidifier leaking water after I disconnected the drain hose


If you reconnect the drain hose, make sure that it lays flat from the dehumidifier and into the sump pump hole. I did that and it solved my problem of water leaking onto the floor.

Jun 15, 2014 | Kenmore 50 Pint Dehumidifier Electronic...

1 Answer

No water when I start the machine, kenmore he2 front loading automatic washer model 110.46462500


First are the valves open for the water inlet? Next make sure that your hoses are not kinked. (There are some hoses that will seal themselves if they detect a leak, you may want to replace the hoses.) Remove the hoses from the back of the washer and place this free end into a bucket or sink, open the valves and flush lines of any foreign matter. Next clean the screens that are in the washer inlets. Sometimes you can pull these out with pliers for cleaning. Reinstall the screens and then the hoses. Make sure that there are no leaks.

If the above do not help, then the washer inlet valve is probably bad. See the parts diagrams here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11046472500/0582/0153200?sid=MMLxMerchandizexManualsModelx110.46462500x11046472500 (top and cabinent parts)

The manual for the 110.46462500 is available from Manage My Life: http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/owner_manuals/17838/KENMORE-Residential-Washers-L0521458?brand_name_search=110.46462500 .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Sep 18, 2011 | Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer

1 Answer

It suddenly began leaking somewhere on the inside. This happened first when I was not around and not only did it leak from the bottom, the thing kept filling up and not stopping, resulting in a flood in...


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11022642100/0582/0153200?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=11022642100

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the section for the basket and tub assembly's

I'd pull the cabinet in order to get to the hoses going to and from the pump first.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131

If the hoses are fine, check the shaft from the motor to the pump and check inside the pump to make sure the inlet and outlet aren't blocked.

I'd also check the gaskets at the bottom of the tub.

If you're reasonably mechanically inclined, these are easy fixes.

If you have to get to the gaskets at the bottom of the tub, see the following for how to remove the agitators, pump, motor, transmission, spin tube and basket.

(It sounds a bit complicated but it's not really that difficult.)

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

As an aside, see the following Whirlpool Service Manual for top load direct drive washers.


https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Depending on the problem (hoses or gasket) it's certainly less expensive than calling in a repair person.

Jan 25, 2011 | Kenmore 22642 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I have a top-load washer that began leaking at the front of the unit. The water is dripping from the front-center of the machine. It begins leaking immediately upon filling and will continue to leak for...


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Check the area for the motor and pump.

If you've checked the hoses to and from the pump the problem points to either the pump itself or to the Centerpost gasket.

Neither of these is too difficult to replace, the Gasket requires removing most parts of the washer although the pump is an easy replacement.

Sep 23, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washing machine leeks and doesnt complete cycle


When the washing machine starts leaking water all over the floor, you face a tough choice. Either call a service technician to fix the problem or purchase a new machine. Both decisions are expensive. Most service technicians charge $50 to $100 just to walk in the door and diagnose the problem, and labor expenses can quickly accumulate. After receiving the final bill, you may even wish you’d replaced the machine!
TIP: Make sure the water on the floor isn’t the result of a plugged floor drain. It happens! 
There are two types of washing machines: belt drive and direct drive.
If you open up the cabinet and don’t find any belts, then you’ve got a direct-drive machine. Repairs are similar for both machines, but generally easier on the direct-drive unit.
The following photos are from a belt-drive washing machine. If you have a direct drive, refer to your owner’s manual or diagrams (see “Buying Parts") for brand-specific details.
First, Replace Leaky Supply Hoses
The first step is to locate the source of the leak. Empty the washing machine, move it away from the wall and start the fill cycle. Look for drips around the water supply hose connection at the back of the machine while it fills with water. Shut off the water and replace any old, heavily corroded or rusted hoses with new ones. If the hoses are in good shape, replace the internal washers only. Special no-burst hoses ($10), regular hoses ($6) and new hose washers ($2 per 10-pack) are available at home centers and hardware stores.

Turn off the water main or shutoff valve and unscrew the supply hoses from the back of the machine with an adjustable pliers. Pry out the old hose washers with a flat-blade screwdriver. Install new gaskets in both hoses and reconnect the supply lines.
Second, Replace Leaky Internal Hoses
If the supply hoses aren’t leaking, open the cabinet and inspect the internal components. Belt-drive machines typically have a rear access panel that unscrews. Access direct-drive machines by removing the two screws on the outside of the control panel and flipping up the lid. Then pry up the cabinet clips and pull off the entire cabinet. With the cabinet open, restart the fill cycle to check for internal leaks. Look for additional clues like rust and calcium deposits. Most often you’ll find the leaks in the spots we show inFigure A.

Hoses tend to leak around a worn-out spring clamp. First try to remove the spring clamp with an adjustable pliers. If you can’t get it, you’ll need a special $15 hose clamp pliers available from your local parts supplier. Replace the old spring clamp with a new worm-drive clamp. If the hose itself is cracked and leaking, remove it and take it to the appliance parts supplier for a replacement.

CAUTION: Unplug the machine before performing any repairs.
Washing machine parts are available at appliance parts distributors. (Look in the Yellow Pages under “Appliance Parts.”) Try to find a parts supplier with a well-informed staff, ideally ex–repair technicians, who can provide diagrams and help diagnose any problems specific to your brand of machine. A great Internet source is www.searspartsdirect.com. Enter your model number to access exploded-view diagrams and a thorough parts list for easy on-line ordering.

You’ll need the brand and model number for proper part identification. Model numbers are usually stamped on a small metal plate located under the tub lid or on the side or back of the machine. Copy down all the plate information and take it along to the parts distributor.

Third, Replace a Leaky Pump
Fourth, Replace Worn-Out Tub Fittings

The most challenging repair is fixing a leaking tub fitting, whether it’s the air dome seal ($5), the center post gasket ($8) or the tub seals ($15 to $20). Before proceeding, make sure that telltale drips are coming from around the tub. The details of this repair vary by brand and model. The details we show are for most Whirlpool and Kenmore belt drives. Study a schematic drawing or consult a parts specialist if your machine is different from what we show.

You’ll need a special $15 spanner wrench to remove the tub and replace the tub fittings on this type of machine. It’s available at your local appliance parts supplier. You can open the top of many machines by releasing the spring catches. However, on others you have to unscrew several screws and lift off the entire cabinet. Look in your owner’s manual or at a parts diagram. (See the manufacturer’s Web site or one of the sites listed in “Buying Parts.”) You’ll have to unscrew the water inlet and the tub snubber before unclipping the ring. Fastening systems for these vary by brand, as do attachment methods for the agitator and inner tub.

There are four tub seals that secure the outer tub to the cabinet, each consisting of a bolt with a rubber and metal washer. Rust often develops around one of the tub seals, causing a tub leak. A new tub seal kit will come with four new bolts and oversized rubber and metal washers that will seal small leaks. But if the tub is completely rusted through around the bolt, it’s time to buy a new washing machine. Replace all four tub seals.

If the leaking occurs only when the machine is agitating, a bad center post gasket (“doughnut”) is the culprit. Remove the outer tub to replace the center post gasket. While you’re at it, replace the air dome seal as well. Reassemble the washing machine and run a test cycle.
Thank you Sir, Have a nice day.

Sep 17, 2009 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

Leaks at bottom lefthand corner when filling


On that model it's easy to unscrew the front and take it off. You can then see the hoses etc to see where the water is coming from. I had to replace the drain hose on mine.

Aug 12, 2009 | Kenmore 98702 Stacked Washer/Dryer

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