Question about LG WM-2277HW Front Load Washer

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Technical manual for WD-1021WF

I need the specifications of the bearings and seal plus a decent technical diagram to replace the bearing once procured

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5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
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Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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BIKER T
  • 909 Answers

SOURCE: suspect drum bearings

most lg front loaders have the plastic outer drums which have about 16 h/duty screws holding the two halves together. extreemly tricky to strip to gain access to inner bearing and seal. Th/stat, motor, piping and other items have to be removed and dissassembled to enable drum to be removed. that repair i suggest for a service repair.

Posted on Aug 16, 2007

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  • 833 Answers

SOURCE: Have a tub main bearing needing replaced on Amana LWA40AW2

Generally, if you need sealant, you can use any kind of automotive sealant. The best ones are the rubber-based gasket sealants. Be sure the surfaces are clean before applying and use only enough to make a thin bead. About the bearing: If you have no access to a press, you can often use a piece of pipe (either plastic or steel) which is just large enough to slip over the shaft and pound the bearing into place with a mallet. The pipe should contact only the inner (shaft contacting) race. Be sure it is square. You should lightly lubricate the area where the bearing will seat and also the inside lip and bore of the seal. .

Posted on Jan 14, 2008

SOURCE: suspect drum bearings

LG Direct Drive bearing replacement The following guide is written to help you assess if replacing the bearings is a job you can undertake and complete. This is not written to be specific to any particular direct drive model but it will help in all cases.
Must do's Before commencing work on an electrical appliance:
1) Unplug the appliance from the wall socket, ensure the appliance on/off switch is in the off position.
2) Turn off the inlet water at the isolation valves and disconnect the inlet hoses from the appliance.
3) Clear a space and plan where you are going to put items you remove from the appliance.
4) Have pen and paper handy for making notes, a digital camera is ideal for taking a picture of wiring connections for future reference (**PHOTO**)
Strip down 1) Remove the worktop by undoing 2 screws at the rear, slide backwards and lift off.
2) FROM THE BACK.....Remove the back panel (4 screws) giving access to the rear of the tub unit. Disconnect the wiring to the motor, thermostat and heater, disconnect earth wires, (**PHOTO**). The drum pulley, which is the ROTOR of the direct drive system has a single bolt to undo. Slacken this bolt a turn or two, DO not remove completely. Gently tap the bolt with a soft faced hammer or drift, this will assist in the removal of the Rotor. Remove the bolt and remove the rotor, careful as it has a series of magnets around its inner circumference. The stator of the direct drive system is now in front of you, there are 6 bolts holding it in place. Remove these and very carefully remove the stator without damaging it, its very expensive, look after it. Depending on your model there could be a spacer between the stator and the tub unit, if so remove this also.
3) FROM THE FRONT.....Open the filter door (left side of kick plate) if there is a small drain hose, remove stopper and drain off any water in there. There is 1 screw to remove which is at the side of the filter, then slide the kick plate sideways should release the plinth from the cabinet. Open the door, the seal clamp band that secures the door gasket to the cabinet should be removed. If the door seal has a further hose attached, remove it.
4) Read all of this paragraph, there are 2 versions.....Remove 3 screws holding the lower edge of the front panel to the cabinet. Remove the soap drawer, remove 2 screws in the control panel that secure the soap box, depending on model there could be a third in the lower right hand corner, if there is, remove it. If there isn't read on further.. Carefully slide the front panel downwards about 20mm and it will disengage from the cabinet, carefully look behind it and disconnect the door lock wiring to allow complete removal. If there was not a third screw (lower right hand corner of the control panel) then the control panel will have to be removed. From the top remove the clip retaining the hose that goes into the top of the tub unit, remove the clip holding the large hose on the left, slide the soap box backwards slightly and hang over the back of the cabinet, all the hoses still connected. To remove the control panel look under the top frame and release the two lugs whilst easing the panel away from the cabinet. disconnect the wiring and remove away completely.
5) From the bottom remove the sump hose from the tub, the screw that secures the pressure bottle to the tub. Remove the suspension pins from the top position of the legs and push the legs clear of the tub unit. The tub unit will now be hanging from the top springs. Using strong wire or rope, loop the hook of the spring, lift clear of the cabinet and lower the tub unit to the floor. Repeat this on the other spring which then allows the tub unit to be lifted through the front of the cabinet.
6) Place the tub unit door seal up, remove the screws that secure tub front 1/2 to the rear 1/2. This allows the inner drum to be removed, if its tight use soft faced hammer, DO NOT damage the drum shaft.
Inspect the drum shaft collar, the collar is located at the base of the shaft and is the surface that the oil seal mates to. Look for indents or circular ruts where the previous seal has worn the collar away
6a70_2.jpg if damaged you will need a new spider unit. Do not clean up using abrasive cloth, try the green pan scrubber from the kitchen instead. If damaged and you don't replace it the bearing replacement will fail prematurely as the oil seal fails to keep the wash water away.
There are several different kits, comprising of 2 bearings and 1 oil seal. To obtain the correct kit you will need the model number of your appliance, eg WM1480FHD or WM1485FHD or WM16225FD
all use bearing kit 1 available here other kits are available for other models including belt drives and washer dryers
The bearings can now be removed, the seats cleaned and made ready for the new bearings and water seal. A light cover of grease can be smeared on the inner edge of the seal.
7) There is a tub seal which fits in the recess between the front and rear 1/2's of the tub unit, it is adviseable to renew that seal before rebuild is commenced.
8) Rebuild is a reversal of the above, at every step double check electrical and hose connections and before you refit the cabinet front.
Hope you find this guide useful, some paragraphs can be applied to the belt drives also.

Posted on Oct 04, 2008

  • 103 Answers

SOURCE: NEED TO REPLACE REAR BEARING.GOT A NEW

really tedious job. if you are really keen, pl. follow.
remove motor, remove shoker top pins, remove top stone, remove all hose connecting drum, remove heater/other connections, remove door gasket from front, support drum from top, remove springs, lower drum, dismantle drum in two pieces, remove inner steel drum.
well rest i think you can think yourself.

Posted on Oct 30, 2009

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1) Copy following link for garbage disposal installation tips, parts resources, and manuals.
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2) When disposal rusts out, or bearing seal breaks, the disposal begins to leak from bottom.
It might be possible to take apart and replace bearing, if you can find that specific part and have specific tools and sealer needed to seal the bearing and repair rusted disposal.
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Squeaky condenser fan motor on Carrier 3 ton central air. I oiled once 4 months ago and noise stopped but noise returned today. Is there a special oil for the berings?


Hello
Usually a light oil.Wd 40.
Most of these motors are sealed bearings,meaning they do not get oiled.When they start making noise it means the motor bearings are getting worn and the motor will need to be replaced soon.

I have got 5 to 6 months out of noisy motors using a light household oil or WD 40.

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Whirlpool Front load washer - wfw9400sw01. Sounds very loud during the spin cycle. Suspect a bearing issue. I have pulled the back plate off. Pulley, belt, shocks and motor all appear to be fine. What...


A loud rumble noise during the spin cycle is a good indication that the bearings have failed. The bearings are located in the rear outer tub. See link http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4426951 There are actually two bearings an inner and an outer bearing plus a seal. Water must have leaked past the seal causing the inner bearings to corrode. Once they start to rust, it just gets louder and louder. You are correct that Whirlpool does not sell the bearings and seal separately, but you must buy a new rear outer tub currently the price is over $400.

I had it happen to a different brand of front load washer and was faced to either, replace the rear outer tub, junk it or figure out how to replace the seal and bearing. I opted for the last and did some research on finding replacement bearings and seals. I had to tear the washer apart to get the bearings, then pound out the old ones to replace with new ones. It been working find for the last 2.5 year so far.

I found a website that might help you locate bearings and seals for your machine. http://www.hometask.com/washerrepair.aspx The site has a video on how to tear down your machine and shows you how to remove and replace the bearings. He might have the ones that you need on his site. Hope this helps you.

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1 Answer

Pinion gear bearing replacement


To do that job correctly involves removing the carrier, re-setting the pinion depth and checking gear patterns for proper engagement. All that requires experience and special tools (like dial indicators)
Generally speaking, when any bearing in the differential fails, the debris contaminates the other bearings therefore, even if the outer pinion bearing has failed, inner and both side bearings should be replaced or shortly after the job is finished, you will have another problem.
Generally faster and easier to replace the entire unit with a scrapyard part (drum to drum). Just make sure that if it's a 4x4, that you match the gear ratio exactly.Most otherwise decent techs can't set up a differential right so unless you are really into doing this, a replacement is the way to go.

If you want to try just replacing the outer bearing, count the number of turns it took to remove the pinion nut and when putting it back together,re- tighten the nut to that exact number including any half turns. You will need a seal and bearing assembly. You can drive the bearing race out from the inside by removing the carrier and the pinion gear. Carrier bolts need to be torqued. (don't remember the # off hand but it's in any decent manual)

Oct 13, 2010 | 2000 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Making noise on spin and wash cycle sounds like bearing are loose


Common fault with top loaders. Yes the main bearing plus the hub and seal kit must be replaced. Would honestly suggest proffesional help. Fairly technical repair.

Jun 05, 2010 | Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I have a 2002 ford f250 7.3 diesel with a drive shaft vibration at around 45mph. It has a 2 piece drive shaft. The large rubber bushing around the drive shaft in carrier housing is somewhat collapsed on...


hello, i have a chevrolet dually, the carrier bearing, in mine was doing this, i took it apart, pulled both driveshafts apart then took carrier bearing off, the bearing inside was dry, plus they had a bblue look to them, bearings was bad, plus rubber around the bearing was dry rotted, there is know way of greasing these bearings because they are sealed, i pull bobcats, tractors, with mine if you use it for a lot of heavy pulling, they dont last a long time, chevrolets carrier bearing is all made together, bearing and rubber is made together, on mine, seems like i paid about 35.00 dollars for mine, spray some wd-40 around driveshaft where it goes into bearing, i had to take a hammer to mine to get it off front drive shaft, it was stuck pretty bad.

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2 Answers

How to replace bearings on LG WD-1019BD washer?


To get to the bearings you need to remove the rotor as you have done, remove the front, you need to push a card under the lip of the top at the front to open the top to get out the front. Then then you need to undo all the bolts in the middle of the tub, then take out the inner drum and then you can hit the bearings out with a drift, Don't just replace the bearings, you also need to replace the seal and spider which is the 3 legged part with the main shaft on it, otherwise if you don't replace all the parts listed it will not last long before the same happens again. The problem is caused by the seal letting watter into the bearings, the new seals are mdified to help stop this happening.

Apr 12, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Cannot get wheel bearing to seperate out of the knuckle any tricks


Since you are likely attempting to remove the bearing/hub assembly, once it's unbolted, lots of wd 40 and a decent slide hammer works best. Otherwise try striking the wheel flange with a decent hammer, hitting it alternately on one side, then 180 degrees on the other side (opposite where you first hit it) this will prevent it from cocking and jamming as it comes out. You have removed all bolts including the one on the axle?

Mar 18, 2009 | 2004 Chevrolet Aveo

1 Answer

1991 chevy silverado 1500 2-wd leaking oil seals, rear end.


the outer bearings can be driven in using a suitable Very Large socket. Removing the old ones either requires a puller or a cutting torch. I use either depending on the state of the bearings.
when driving new ones in, make sure
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  2. you only hit against the outer bearing shell
  3. you keep it very straight
  4. hit it til you hear a resounding solid clunk as the bearing reaches full insertion.
  5. you fit a new oil seal
  6. use a block of wood across the oil seal face to protect it as you knock it in - keep it straight!
To answer the other question, yes you do have to remove the driveshaft to replace the oil seal. the Diff ack-plate has to be removed, the locking horseshoes from the ends of the driveshaft, & the wheels. It takes about 1 hour to remove them & clean the backplate. about another to reassemble.
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2 Answers

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