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The Water Inlet Valve on your washing machine is used to fill the tub with cold, warm or hot water for the wash and rinse cycles. The valve is operated by electric solenoids that are controlled by the timer or electronic control board and the water level control/water level selector switch or pressure switch. If your washer continues to fill during a cycle, the water inlet valve could be at fault. To verify that the valve is at fault, unplug the washer when the symptom occurs. If the washer continues to fill, then the water inlet valve is defective. If the washer stops filling, then the problem is related to the electrical circuit that controls the valve. The water level switch is a pressure activated switch that is used to determine the correct water level in the tub. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. As the water fills in the tub it will compress the air in the tube and push against a diaphragm inside the switch. The switch will control the water inlet valve and turn the valve off at the correct water level. If the tube has a leak or is plugged, not enough pressure may be created to activate the switch and the washer may overfill. If the switch is defective it may also cause the machine to overfill.
To determine if the switch is bad, you should first eliminate the air dome hose as a problem. Look for signs of cracks or worn areas on the hose. Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. If the air dome hose appears to be ok, then the water level pressure switch may be defective. Inspect the switch for signs of a mechanical defect or debris plugging the hole in the inlet nipple. To test the switch contacts for continuity with a multi-meter, you will need to apply the proper amount of air pressure to the air dome tube and then look for the switch to go open circuit at that level. The easiest way to do this is to start the washer and allow it to fill to the normal level and then remove the power cord. Locate the pressure switch and remove the wires from the correct terminals and then perform the continuity test. There should be infinite resistance or an "open circuit" when the water level is correct. If not, then the switch is defectiv
Alarm code Description of fault User code Effect E11 Problems with water fill in wash phase E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.2 E12 Problems with water fill in drying E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.3 E21 Problems with water drain in wash phase E20 Cycle PAUSED 8.4 E22 Problems with water drain during drying or drying condenser blocked E20 Heating phase skipped 8.5 E31 Analogic (electronic) pressure switch circuit faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.6 E32 Incorrect calibration of analogic (electronic) pressure switch --- Cycle PAUSED 8.7 E33 Incongruency between level of analogic (electronic) pressure switch and level of anti-boiling pressure switch 1 --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.8 E34 Incongruency between level of electronic pressure switch and level of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.9 E35 Water level too high --- Cycle blocked with door closed and water drain 8.10 E36 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 1 faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.11 E37 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.11 E38 Pressure chamber blocked --- Heating phase skipped 8.12 E41 Door open E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.13-14 E42 Problems with door closure E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.15-16 E43 TRIAC which powers the door interlock faulty E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.17-18 E44 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock faulty --- Cycle blocked 8.19 E45 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock triac faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.19 E51 TRIAC which powers the motor short-circuited --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.20 E52 No signal from tachometric generator --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.21-22 E53 "Sensing" circuit of motor TRIAC faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.23 E54 Relays (motor) contacts faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.23 E61 Insufficient heating during washing --- Heating phase skipped 8.24 E62 Overheating during washing --- Drain, end of cycle 8.25 E63 Insufficient heating during drying Heating phase skipped 8.26 E64 Overheating during drying --- Heating phase skipped 8.27 E66 Power relay to heating element faulty --- Drain, end of cycle 8.28 E71 NTC wash sensor faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.29 E72 NTC sensor on drying condenser faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.30 E73 NTC sensor on drying duct faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.31 E84 "Sensing" circuit on circulation pump triac faulty --- Drain, end of cycle (door open) 8.32 E85 Circulation pump faulty --- Drain, end of cycle (door open) 8.33 E91 Communications error between main PCB and user interface --- --- 8.34 E93 Configuration error E90 Cycle blocked 8.34 E94 Incorrect configuration of washing cycle E90 Cycle blocked 8.34 EF1 Drain filter blocked LED-EF0 --- 8.35 EF2 Excessive detergent LED-EF0 --- 8.35 Regards David Marsh
The machine control board is programmed to allow a maximum continous fill time of six minutes
or an accumulated fill time of 8 minutes for each full wash cycle.
If the required fill time exceeds the time limit, the washer will shut down.
This is to prevent flooding in the event there is a loose hose clamp or damaged air dome hose.
Check the incoming water lines for a minimum pressure of 20 psi.
If lower, the customer can use smaller clothes loads and reduce the pressure to 10 psi.
An alternative solution would be to change the plastic inlet screens to metal screened washers
and remove the nozzle extender found in the water valve inlet hose near the dispener inlet."
If the washer won't fill you'll need to check for the water
inlet hose, the water inlet valve and the pressure/water level switch assembly.
Inspect the inlet hose coming to the washer for any blockages. If the hose is
not clogged then check the water inlet valve for any clogs, if the water will
not even fill for few seconds then certainly the water inlet valve is bad and
should be replaced. You can also use a multimeter to check continuity on inlet
valve. If you don't get any value on the multimeter then you'll need to replace
the water inlet valve assembly. However, if the valve is fine then the
pressure/water level switch assembly should be replaced. Hope this helps...
Please post back if you need more information.
It is a long fill error. It flashes when the machine control board detected no change in the water level or the water level is not reached in a certain period of time during the fill cycle. Water is probably not entering the tub due to the water inlet valve not functioning or water enters the tub but not properly due to clogged fill hose screens.
Press the Pause/Cancel button to clear the error on the display. Remove the fill hoses from the water inlet valve assembly at the back of the machine and check the screens. Clean the screens and replace it if necessary. Make sure that the water supply valve is open and water is present.
Put the machine in standby mode (only the Clothes Clean indicator is on) and activate the Manual Diagnostic Test Mode to check the operation of the water inlet valve.
Select any one button except Power, Stop, and Stop.
Press and hold the button for 3 seconds-->Release the button for 3 seconds--> Press and hold the button for 3 seconds-->Release the button for 3 seconds--> Press and hold the button for 3 seconds
Press the same button when all indicators on the console are illuminated and "88" is displayed on the Estimated Time Remaining display. A single beep sounds and display shows the two digit console ID number for 3 seconds. The displayed ID number will change to "00" and the Add a Garment indicator will flash.
Select Whitest Whites cycle.
Press Start>Wash/Rinse Temp. The water inlet valve should turn on and fill the tub according to the Wash/Rinse Temp selection.
Press Start to turn off the valve.
Press Stop or Power button to exit diagnostic test mode.
Hello Friend, You either have a bad water level/pressure switch or your water inlet valve is bad. If you unplug the washer from the wall and the water stops filling the washer then it's not the water inlet valve. If it only continues to fill when wash cycle is started then you will need to replace the water level/pressure switch behind control panel. This should solve your problem. Happy to help, Tim.
LF flashes when the water level does not change for a period of time after the valves are turned on OR water has disengaged
the basket but control does not detect a water level change.
• Is water supply connected and turned on?
• Are hose screens plugged?
• Is water entering the tub? If so check pressure hose connection to machine/motor control.
I believe there is a screen/filter on the water line before or at the water fill valve. If that gets plugged it can restrict the flow. The fill valve can also fail/get plugged and restrict the flow.
Also, dishwashers usually have a level sensor to tell when there is enough water to do the wash. It may be a float inside the tub that operates a mechanical switch or it may have a hose to a pressure sensor. Either type can get greasy/dirty/plugged and as a result cause improper water levels.
Check both the water supply filter/fill valve and the level sensor. One or both of those may be involved.
You may want to double check you have the inlet hoses around the correct way as if you have the cold hose going to the hot valve it would cause this fault. If the machine doesnt spin properly also it could be a faulty Out of balance switch. cheers.