Question about Intermatic T103 Indoor 120-Volt 40-amp Timer Switch-Double Pole/Single Thro
A few days ago, we had an issue where we had no hot water. I'm no electrician by any means and it will be even more obvious after reading this post. I checked online which suggested resetting the top t-stat. Did that and the next day all seemed well. This was on the 29th, and we hadn't had any issues prior to this in the few years we've been in the condo. The hot water heater is a 5-6 year old 40-gallon Rudd electric that was replaced in our 'built-in-70-something condo'. For the most part, it always seemed okay-- there have been occassions where we would have scalding hot water, or times where it would be only semi-hot. After I reset the top tstat, I purchased a repair kit(2 thermostats, heating element seals, and two heating elements) just to see if that helped. I haven't gotten around to swapping out the elements or tstats yet. It also occurred to me that we had a timer just above our hot water tank access panel in our coat closet. I honestly never knew what the little box was until we had this initial problem. Never had a problem with the timer either. Last night, we ran the dishwasher and also a load of laundry in the washing machine. Just around this time, my fiance went into our coat closet for something and smelled burning. The closet is under our stairs with an access panel to the hot water heater. Our timer is an Intermatic T103 timer. My nose pointed me to the little timer box, and boy did it smell BAD, like electrical. This time looks pretty old (although some of them do lack modern styling) but as stated before, we haven't had any issues with it in the past. I realize that it's pretty cold out my way and there might be some delay for us to get hot water through cold pipes, but this is different. We haven't ever had issues with the water being ice cold for extended periods of time (i.e. feels like the heater is not working). I don't even know what the real issue is or if there are multiple issues here. Last night I kept an eye on the timer and turned the timer from the manual on position to off. I was thinking that would bypass the timing setting and just pass the current directly to the hot water heater. Smell did die down last night and I decided that I would check in the morning. This morning I checked the timer and the timer was in the on position. I immediately turned the breakers off to the hot water tank, to avoid any catastrophe while I'm not home. Anyone have any insight or past experience that will be helpful?
Jan 2013. Yes very experienced. Multiple issues. Bad thermostat. Burned contacts on timer.
Let's break it down.
1) Water heater tripped:
29th the electric water heater reset button was tripped because ECO detected high heat from very-hot-water, or nearby burned wire, or loose wire, or bad thermostat.
2) Description of water heater:
40 gallon Rudd (Rheem), 2 thermostats and 2 elements indicates ordinary 240Volt water heater.
More information shows on label on side of tank, including valtage rating (208-240), and element wattage (usually 4500 watts).
Rheem-Ruud serial number, 3rd and 4th digit are year of manufacture.
3) Solution for water heater:
Tripping ECO reset button, Very hot water, and sometimes not-so-very-hot ... sounds like bad thermostat, and/or bad element. Replace both thermostats, and see if problem persists. Then replace elements if needed.
4) Information about timer:
Water heater circuit has 40 amp T103-Timer, which is plenty heavy for ordinary 240Volt household water heater that draws 19-22 amps.
T103 timer has repair parts, and can usually be repaired unless overheated contacts caused melting, but that can also be worked around in some circumstances, or the internal mechanism replaced by buying T103M mechanism-only and snapping into existing box.
5) Solution for timer:
Attach photo of inside of T103 timer, and I can assess what steps will most likely fix the timer.
Maybe the timer is not connected to water heater.
Posted on Jan 02, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Try turning your thermostat up 20 degrees. That will make hotter water, requiring more cold to mix so you'll use less hot water for the shower. If that helps but you'd like it longer, increase the temperature in 10 degree increments until you reach a temperature that works.
Posted on May 14, 2009
Since the timer doesn't trip the breaker until it turns on the load, the circuit is OK up to and including the timer. Either the load is faulty (has a short) or the wire supplying the load is damaged. You can test the wire that supplies the load by disconnecting the load then turning the manual switch to ON. If the breaker doesn't trip, then you know it is the load itself that is causing the problem.
Posted on Mar 21, 2010
SOURCE: Model T101 is not turning
The breaker is tripping?
Timer starts again when you flip breaker. It sounds like breaker is loose on the busbar, or there is loose wire that stops making contact, and then the timer turns off because no electricity is flowing to timer.
You have T101 timer.
When the timer is off next time: Stand on dry surface or dry boards. Open cover. Notice there is a plastic insulator that covers wiring terminals. On the insulator, each wiring terminal is marked: A 1 2. Remove plastic insulator that covers wiring terminals. Use ordinary electrical tester. Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from voltage. Test across terminals 1 and A for 120Volts (or 110, 115, 125V is all the same).
If there is no voltage, then circuit breaker and/or wire from circuit breaker is suspect.
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Posted on Sep 13, 2011
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