Question about Hotpoint Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: i have a Hotpoint 7Kg
Hi button bell...
Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
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Posted on Sep 13, 2011
I am not familiar with this particular unit, but I have a condensing dryer (Malber) which pumps out the water by itself. I am guessing that your unit requires you to empty a bin manually. Even if the bin is empty, I think the unit thinks it needs to be emptied and that is why the dryer will not work to give you hot air. If you do have such a bin, it might have a weight switch which the unit uses to detect if the bin needs emptying. See if the weight switch is working. The same weight switch idea is used on dehumidifiers.
Posted on Mar 10, 2008
SOURCE: TUMBLE DRYER DOES NOT GET HOT
Hi, - The first thing to do is UNPLUG THE DRYER! Then remove the heater cover situated on the back panel. It is the curvey shaped panel.
Remove all the screws and the panel may be slightly stuck - just prise it off.
Next - there are 2 small screws holding the heater and thermostats assy onto the back panel. - Remove these to free the assy from the back panel. Be careful not to touch the elements as they break easily.
The problem is probably the Thermostats.
The one on the left is the Overheat Thermostat - You will notice a small hole in the centre of the thermostat. Take a Pin and push it firmly into the hole and you may hear the Stat "click". That has re-set the stat.
Re-assemble the Dryer being careful with the elements.
Now - Why has it tripped? If it has overheated it is because of one or all of the following.
1. The Condenser unit is getting blocked - Remove and clean under running water like a hosepipe or tap.
2. The door filter is not being cleaned
3. Sometimes opening the door to check if the clothes are dry and then not allowing the dryer to cool down can cause the problem. Always allow it to go through the cool down process.
Hope this helps. The Heater and the Thermostats are available as Spares - Terry
Posted on Mar 15, 2008
SOURCE: Not collecting water in the tank
I also have this problem and is leaking all over my floor underneath...i've only had it a day. the condenser is soppin wet and no water in the tank..i'm dead angry...anyone else have an idea how to fix this mother F*****...thanks...clair
Posted on May 29, 2008
heater is protected with a thermal cut out.
With a multimeter you need to check that the thermal cut out has gone open circuit.
You also need to to check the heater itself.
Remove the rear panel of the dryer.
Behind there is the cowling that covers the heater. Once you take that off it will reveal the heater assembly of which you will see two thermal devices mounted on the top. One is a thermal fuse the other is the auto reset.
You need to check both of these.
If both thermostats and the heater check out ok then try an identify the thermostat located in the door way. Check this with your multimeter for open circuit.
Posted on Dec 01, 2010
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