Question about Waring WMK300 Professional Belgian Waffle Maker
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Posted on Jan 05, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Belgian Waffle Maker Problem
Here is what is happening, and if you're out of warranty and so inclined how to easily fix it yourself.
Make sure you are unplugged from the wall before doing anything or you will get shocked. You do not need to take the bottom cover off the base. You do not need to take the top plate apart (they super glued one screw in the top plate (lid), you'll strip out the screw head trying to remove it anyhow). All you need to open is the bottom plate, it has 4 screws in it you will see when you open the lid, these screws are not super glued and will come out. 2 on each side in the back, 2 in the center of the front, long screws go in the back, short in the front.
There are 2 white wires, 1 black wire, 1 green wire that run up the neck of the waffle maker to heat the top and bottom heating elements. The 2 white wires are neutral, the green wire is a ground, the black wire is power.
This black wire runs from the electronic control board in the base of the unit, up the neck in the rear, through a thermal fuse, to the bottom element then jumps up to the top element. All you need to take apart is the bottom plate, the part you pour the batter into. It has 4 screws you will see when you open the top plate up, take those out and you are going to find the black wire is covered by a white rubber like tube about 3 inches long. In the center of this rubber insulation there is a metal clip with a single screw. Take that screw out, pull off the metal clip and slide (don't cut) the rubber like insulation back.
You will find the black wire is crimped onto a silver metal bullet looking component. This component is called a "thermal fuse", its designed to fail at 240 degrees C. Its obviously a design flaw and the thermal fuse is under rated for the actual heat within the device. Its also a one shot fuse, so when it blows it kills power on the black wire from going to the top and bottom plates, thus no heat. It is not resettable.
I didn't even cut mine out (Waring is very skimpy with their wire, they don't leave you even a hint of extra wire to work with). I just tightly twisted the bare metal wire on each side of this component like a bread tie leaving the blown fuse in place. Then be sure to slide the rubber like insulation back over all of the bare metal so it is covering the black wire on both sides. If you don't it will short out and blow your house circuit breaker when you turn it on.
This thermal fuse was probably a requirement of the UL Listing. Its over kill, everything in there is metal so if it over heats in that area there is nothing flammable to burn. If a run away temperature occurs the wire itself will melt, short out and trip your house breaker. There are stacks of these units brand new with this same problem anyone reading this is having, the thermal fuse is under rated, the fix is simple.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
Lots of appliance makers include a 1 800 number with the paperwork that comes with an appliance.
I would try to find that number and call them. They owe you a replacement unit. If you can't find the number do a Google search for Waring and they should have a tel number and/or a "contact us" place to send and email.
Good luck Loringh
Posted on Oct 26, 2008
SOURCE: Waring pro waffle maker
There are wires that are exposed because of poor wires that seem to crack under heat or oil or both I am calling the factory now that I have opened it up and found a FIRE HAZARD inside
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
SOURCE: Waring Waffle Maker no heat
Remove 4 Black Phillips Screws 2 on the front near the handle that flips Use a Good fitting Screwdriver These screws have a thread locker on them. They will strip the heads out if proper care is not used when removing them.Then remove the two screws at the rear of the Iron Just rear of the cooking surface. This will remove the chrome cover on the bottom of the cooking surface exposing the wiring. The thermal fuse is located under a section of insulation under a clamp held in by another Phillips screw.Do not cut or Damage the insulation. Gently pull it back exposing the fuse. After replacing the fuse, insulation ,Clamp and screws check to be sure the iron heats and cycles on and off and the ready light works properly. If it does not cycle the new fuse will blow . Good luck
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
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