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How to reassemble the torsion spring valve arm on a UH60010

I had to replace the valve arm front and now i dont know how the torsion spring goes back on

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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reddevil6
  • 1673 Answers

SOURCE: Valve actuator, arm & spring assembly

Could not find a picture of this installed, I have replaced this spring and it is hard to do. You have to put the straight prong of the spring unto the valve arm, you will see a spot for it to be at, then wind the other end of the spring around until it goes into a slot, then get it all together on the agi housing before it comes apart. Hope this makes sense.

87aacd4.jpg

Posted on Feb 16, 2008

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SOURCE: How do you install the

Is this what you're looking for? snakysmom.jpg

Also,the manual for your vacuum is available online at http://www.hoover.com/CustomerService/Manuals/Default.aspx.

Posted on Nov 07, 2010

  • 436 Answers

SOURCE: My U6616- blew a few

I can get you to a parts schematic.

http://www.vacsrus.com/cartgenie/pg_u6607900.asp


Hope it helps

Thanks

Please rate Fixya

Posted on Apr 07, 2011

small6363
  • 18402 Answers

SOURCE: Replacing The Valve Arm On A Hoover Vacum Model # UH60010

here is the manual > http://hoover.com/file/609/

Posted on Dec 31, 2012

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Replacement of v belt


Instructions1 Place the riding mower on a level surface and set the emergency brake. Open the engine or tilt the seat back to gain access to the battery. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket. Turn off the main fuel petcock valve from the tank to the carburetor. Set the attachment clutch in the "Disengage" position. Set the motion control lever to neutral. Place the mower deck lift lever in its lowest position to drop the deck.
2 Pull the belt against the engine drive pulley, then pull upward on it and slip it off the pulley. Unclasp the small clutch retainer spring from the pulley bolt. Detach the big retaining spring and then slide the collar sleeve off. Shove the housing guide out from the br
3 Pull the retainer springs off that hold the rear suspension arms to the rear mower deck bracket. Disconnect the front link arms that hold the front of the mower deck to the chassis. Pull the lift lever to put the suspension arms at full height.
4 Slide the mower deck out from the bottom of the tractor. Tilt the mower deck and prop it up with wood blocks. Use a stiff cleaning brush to remove all mud, twigs and grass clumps. Wipe the top of the deck and undercarriage with a rag.
5 Un-thread the belt from around the idler and mandrel pulley. Place the new belt around the mandrel pulley and idler pulley first, then stretch it up to the drive pulley and loop it into the pulley grooves. Make sure the V part of the belt rests inside the pulley.
6 Use the lever to raise the suspension arms on the deck. Push the deck back under the tractor. Lower the suspension arms and replace all the retaining springs in reverse or the order in which you removed them. Slide the sleeve back into position and secure it with the spring. Reattach the spring to the anti-sway bar. Shove the housing guide back into its bracket.
7 Raise the mower deck with the lever. Reconnect the negative battery cable with a socket. Turn on the fuel petcock valve. Start the engine and engage the main drive lever. Test-drive.

THanks

Apr 02, 2012 | Vacuums

1 Answer

At first when I tried starting my B & S I primed the motor and it ran for a few seconds and died. This happened twice. I drained the tank and took apart the cvarb and blew out the entire carb. Put it...


Hi tifix1...
Yes, that could cause your problem.
I will offer a few more things to check and repair/replace, maybe there is a few things that you missed.
Please take time to rate me

Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Aug 23, 2011 | Vacuums

1 Answer

After I opened the front hood to replace a broken actuator arm, the torsion spring came out but I don't know where I can put it back.


You have not mentioned any details of machine or model but please do not panic.. look with a good light to see the hooks to which the spring can be attached as it will be evident and logically you can see it than to think there is no stay for the spring to be seen

Sep 28, 2010 | Vacuums

1 Answer

Vacuum will not pick up dirt. plate in hose stays shut. It has a spring that goes to the plate assemily but will not open. What make it open and close. U6616-900 Hoover Vac Alex


Sounds like you have a valve arm not operating properly. The valve door sould spring open when you lower the handle and will shut when the handle is raised and pushes down on the rear valve arm. See a parts diagram and look at parts 39-41 and 19.

Feb 09, 2010 | Hoover U6616-900 WindTunnel Bagless...

1 Answer

How to install spring


on this machine the spring goes to the front wheel assembly under the machine. if this has came off then the wheel assembly is broken. i believe the part # is 36432027. hope this helps

Jul 27, 2009 | Hoover U5753-900 WindTunnel Bagless...

3 Answers

Valve actuator, arm & spring assembly


Could not find a picture of this installed, I have replaced this spring and it is hard to do. You have to put the straight prong of the spring unto the valve arm, you will see a spot for it to be at, then wind the other end of the spring around until it goes into a slot, then get it all together on the agi housing before it comes apart. Hope this makes sense.

87aacd4.jpg

Feb 15, 2008 | Hoover U6660-900 WindTunnel Bagless...

1 Answer

No vacuum suction during normal floor cleaning operation


That door is called a valve door, and it may have broken, part #38718013. Or the valve arm, rear broke, part number 38719048. The spring part # is 38358001. Usually it is the valve arm that breaks. You would have to take the top cover off, then you can see the parts.

Jan 27, 2008 | Hoover U6437-900 / U6439-900 Windtunnel...

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