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"PE" error is related to the Harmonic pressure switch. Since the
part is electronic, I would suspect a clog at the air dome at the
bottom of the tub located at the rear of the machine. The pressure
switch is located at the top. Unplug the washer from power, you will need a small piece of 1/4" plastic tubing or copper tubing. Locate
the pressure switch, disconnect the 1/4" tube from PS. Attach the
PS hose to your plastic or copper extension tube. Try and blow thu.
You should hear bubbling of air. Draw alittle water in by sucking and
blowing several times. This should clear any thing lodged in the lower
air dome. Before you reattach the hose to pressure switch, first trim
1/4 '" of hose off, for a tight fit. But before attaching hose, plug in washer and Press POWER, Press SPIN SPEED, Press START
to activate pump to remove all the water left in the tub. Next lower the
Pump's Trap Door at the bottom left corner of the cabinet. Using a kitchen trash bag, Extend the black rubber hose into trash bag and remove the plug. Turn off the machine when all water has been
evacuated.. Unplug washer and reattach the hose to the pressure
switch and try again.. IF error returns replace Pressure Switch..
There are Air Switches (at the motor or control box) and Air buttons (on the spa/bath side). The vinyl tube between them is the only other component to the 'switching' on/off a hole in the tube may cause this problem. The air switch has a diaphragm which is activated by the air in the tube when the button is pressed. If the air pressure is not sufficient the switch will not operate. As you've replaced your Air button, you might want to change the tubing and either adjust the Air Switch or replace it. The switch only needs 1-5psi to activate so the pressure from you blowing into the tube can damage the diaphragm in the switch.
HI. This will be a defective water pressure switch. Use the procedure below to inspect this switch for faults. Replace the switch, if needed.
HI, the water level switch(aka pressure switch), is responsible for regulating the water fill level in this situation. It does this through a plastic tube which runs from the switch in the control console down to the side of the outer tub, near the bottom . The tube is filled with air. As water enters the tub it also enters the tube. As water climbs inside the tube, it pushes on the air trapped inside and increases the air pressure. When the air pressure reaches a certain level, it triggers the switch.
I would advise to Inspect the air tube for kinks, breaks or damage. The tube should also be free of water. The tubing should be securely connected to the bottom of the outer tub and to the bottom of the water level switch. If there is water present, the switch must be replaced.
The water level switch has three connectors. Label and disconnect the wires from the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. It will be necessary to test each of the three possible pairs. replace the switch if it fails the continuity test.
The switch location will be just behind the main control sector, or near the inlet valve. It will be the only switch with a small hose running into its housing.
A machine that overfills or underfills can often have a faulty water level switch. It's a diaphragm like device with a small plastic tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level increases, so does the pressure on the air in the plastic tube and when it reaches a certain level, it activates the switch to shut off the water. Make sure there is no damage to or obstruction in the plastic tube. The switch can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Check for continuity. A lack of continuity means a bad switch. Really sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.
Check for a faulty water level switch. It's a diaphragm-like device with a small plastic tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level increases, so does the pressure on the air in the tube and when it reaches a certain level, it activates the switch to shut off the water and signals the timer to start the appropriate cycle. Check for any obstructions in or damage to the plastic tube. The switch can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Check for continuity. A lack of continuity means a bad switch. Sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.
This sounds like a faulty water level switch. It's a diaphragm-like device with a small plastic tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level increases, so does the pressure on the air in the plastic tube and when it reaches a certain level it activates the switch to shut off the water and signals the timer to start appropriate cycle. Make sure there is no damage to or obstructions in the plastic tube. The switch can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Check for continuity. A lack of continuity indicates a faulty switch. Sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.
You could have very easily disconnected something while repairing your lid switch. The most common cause of a washer that will not stop filling is a disconnected air hose on the pressure switch. The pressure switch is located inside the operator console behind the load level selector knob. There is a small plastic air hose attached to it that senses pressure from the wash tub as the water rises. This difference in pressure is what determines when the pressure switch shuts off. Without the air hose attached, the pressure switch will not shut off. The following link explains:
Since you had to remove your operator console while replacing the lid switch, I would begin there. Read through the link provided and let me know if you have nay questions. I hope this helps you solve your problem.
PF is probably PE like mine, sometimes the bottome row of the liquid display doesn't work properly
PE is a Pressure Error - condition - The water level in Tub goes down during operation
Possible Causes ¥ The Circuit of Pressure Switch shorted or disconnected. ¥ Pressure Switch is troubled or disconnected ¥ The Controller is troubled. ¥ The Air Tube is kinked or damaged. Possible solutions ¥ Repair or replace the Circuit of Pressure Switch. ¥ Replace the Pressure Switch. ¥ Repair or replace the Controller. ¥ Remove the cause of kink or replace the Air Tube.
I just fixed this problem on my GE washer that overflowed earlier into my hallway and living room. The fix required removing the tube from its connection at the outer tub and cleaning out some residue that was preventing air from moving to the sensor at the top of the machine at the control panel. No tools were needed other than a large steak knife to undo the clips to remove the front panel of the machine and a small flat head screw driver that I used to clean out the plastic pressure hose.
The good news is that even if this had not worked and the sensor/switch needed to be replaced, the part is available for replacement at the local hardware superstore and a few online outlets for around thirty dollars. Replacement of the switch looks to be relatively simple by disconnecting the existing wiring housing and replacing with a new part.
There are several detailed diagrams available online by doing a search for your product/ model number.
Be sure to check the hose before replacing the pressure sensor/switch- this will save time and money.